2017-LM-06-07a

Surf: 3.3 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 292°. Low tide.

I’ve got my summer surf trip coming up and, like every year before this one, I have barely been able to make it out to surf. I’m out of shape and I know it. The surf did not look grood this morning but you got to paddle out to get in shape so I padddled out.

Not bad. There were a few waves in the low-tide mix. And the wind wasn’t awful. Hopefully the waves on my trip will be forgiving because I’m going to be the noodle arm queen out there! >_<

2017-LM-05-24

Surf: 4.3 ft at 14.8 s from the SW at 220°. Low tide.

I spent the last week in Colorado far from the ocean and 5,000+ feet above sea level. It was fun. I hadn’t ridden a horse in 20 years so chasing after cattle in the Pawnee National Grasslands was quite the adventure.

Still, by the end of the week, I was missing the coast and missing surfing.

Conditions this morning weren’t great. I don’t have time these days to go hunting for a better swell angle or a beach that takes the tide better. I just have to paddle out and into whatever I can.

There were a few gems. I got a step or two in and some fun cutbacks. I was glad to be out.

I really wish I was able to get out more often, especially ahead of my big San Onofre surf trip. I miss seeing friends in the water.

2017-LM-05-03

Surf:  5.9 ft at 7.1 s from the WNW at 293°.

I wasn’t sure about this morning: winds looked high at the buoy, it was a short period swell, and the tide was kinda high… but I’m glad I gave it a shot.

There were a few corners working. Small, but pretty decent. The current was booking and one spot proved challenging enough to stay on that I had the whole peak to myself. I didn’t expect that on a nice day.

It’s been a challenge getting in the water lately. Work. Stress. Travel. I almost didn’t go out for those two reasons alone. I’m glad I did.

2017-LM-04-26.jpg

Surf: 3.9 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 285°. Low tide. Light winds.

This morning had everything going against it. Small, short period swell, low tide, and a little bit of a WSW breeze. It did, however, have one very important thing going for it and that’s the fact that I’ve been out of the water ALL MONTH. Today was my one shot to surf so I took it.

The rest of the month was a mix of challenges (got sick, had lots of work,) and fun things (got to spend some time with my baby nephew!) and rain, all of which kept me out of the water. It happens.

The surf was objectively not great, but it was rideable enough to claim a real live wave or two. Otherwise it was all closeouts, current, and trying to make the most of things that almost looked like waves.

2017-LM-03-17

Surf: 4.3 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 272°

More wind, slightly mixed up swell, lots of reasons to sleep in this morning. Thankfully I got up and got out there. Between the conference and the rain, I’m not sure when I’ll get back out. There were plenty of litte rides here and there and surprisingly good spirits for a Friday.

2017-LM-03-15.jpg

Surf: 4.6 ft at 10.0 s from the WNW at 282°

Sadly, work finally broke my streak. Ahh well. It had to break some time. Conditions didn’t sound all the great for the latter half of week, but with an upcoming conference, I knew I had to get in what I could.

My low expectations paid off. It was intermittant, shifty, and often closed out, but there were a few waves here and there. I’m glad I made it back out.

2017-LM-03-12

Surf: 3.6 ft at 12.1 s from the WNW at 284°

The swell came down a bit today. The warm sun was still as lovely as ever, but the waves took a little more work. I wandered up and down the beach getting waves here and there. There were some fun rights, a few dumping lefts. Pretty soon my shoulder began to feel the last 5 days of sessions and I bailed.

Chris stayed out another hour while I painted on the beach. He found a spot to make all the soft tops jealous. I found a few sketches. All and all, a great day.

2017-03-12 14.03.50

2017-LM-03-11

Surf: 4.9 ft at 13.8 s from the W at 276°

I kept my streak going into the weekend! Sure, I got up late, but I got out there. Chris was able to join this time and I got to show him the corners I’d been surfing all week long. The waves were a better than Friday, but still a little lumpy. The sun way amazing. Happy to have every wave I could get.

Afterwards we got break from Boatdocks Bakery. It was so good. We ate almost the whole loaf of challah before making it up the hill!

2017-LM-03-10.jpg

Surf: 4.3 ft at 12.9 s from the W 261°. Incoming Tide. Light local winds, 15kt+ at the buoys.

I’ve been dying to take my Vaquero out. I keep saying “I’ll get in a few sessions, get back in shape, THEN I’ll take it out.” And instead, my schedule earts up my mornings or it rains and I’m back to being out of shape. Today I said “To heck with waiting” and took it out anyway.

The surf was pretty funky, much more challenging than either of the previous days. I knew right away I’d be missing my longboard’s ability to cruise over all the junk. I paddled out with a group of the usual morning crew. Unfortunately this spot had a lot of people on it and I was a wobbly mess on my 6’10. I got one wave on my knees and another that staggered around before petering out.

I tried the next peak over. Still crowded. I’m not all that comfortable sitting inside when I don’t feel like I can proficiently paddle out of everyone’s way. I paddled around in circles before heading for the next peak.

In between peaks, I found a wave. It was my best wave all day. I did everything competently! Popped up, right in the pocket, swooshed, kicked out. Oh man, I was so happy to finally get something. The only problem was this wasn’t a peak. I paddled back out hoping for another wave and…nothing. Eventually I reluctantly moved on. I got a few more inside waves after lots of work. I hope I get a chance to take this board out again before I forget everything I re-learned.

2017-LM-03-09

Surf: 4.3 ft at 12.1 s from the W at 265°. Incoming/High.

Today wasn’t as clean, but the side was up and the waves were breaking further back. Everyone was still a little bunched, but only a small group of people was making the post I was at work.

Some of the folks from the luau were out. It was nice to see some friendly faces while out solo. My first wave I had a no paddle take off. Oh man, it was a nice ride. I got some hoots. Naturally, I feel on my face the wave after. Ha!

Eventually it went from a sunny morning to heavy fog. At this point I was tired and the next shift of surfers was starting to bunch up on the right I was surfing. I said ehh and took the next wave in. At that point it was too foggy to even see the shore! It cleared up just enough for me to snap a photo after packing up.

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