Learning to Surf

Swell: 4.9ft at 16 sec from WNW Wind: 13mph from E Tide: Low 1.2ft at 08:36 AM Temp: Air 46.9F / Water: 50.2F

Cold, clean morning. The waves looked good but there was still plenty of waiting. Not as easy to catch and a little closed out with the tide.

I realized too late that I’d left my nice 5/4 at Chris’s so I wound up paddling out with my old 4/3 that’s busted through in the elbows and a leash with a knot in it. I surfed about like you’d think someone wearing a busted wetsuit with a janky leash would surf. I was a mess out there.

I had one wave where I didn’t quite get in, was able to add an extra paddle to get some time on the face, but by the time I did I was nearly to the sand.

Sadly my best wave for the day was the one where I dropped in on Bjorn. I think there was room enough to share, but I still like to give everyone their last waves in in peace!

Have a good time in MX, morning crew!

Surf: 3.3 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 292°. Low tide.

I’ve got my summer surf trip coming up and, like every year before this one, I have barely been able to make it out to surf. I’m out of shape and I know it. The surf did not look grood this morning but you got to paddle out to get in shape so I padddled out.

Not bad. There were a few waves in the low-tide mix. And the wind wasn’t awful. Hopefully the waves on my trip will be forgiving because I’m going to be the noodle arm queen out there! >_<

Surf: 4.3 ft at 14.8 s from the SW at 220°. Low tide.

I spent the last week in Colorado far from the ocean and 5,000+ feet above sea level. It was fun. I hadn’t ridden a horse in 20 years so chasing after cattle in the Pawnee National Grasslands was quite the adventure.

Still, by the end of the week, I was missing the coast and missing surfing.

Conditions this morning weren’t great. I don’t have time these days to go hunting for a better swell angle or a beach that takes the tide better. I just have to paddle out and into whatever I can.

There were a few gems. I got a step or two in and some fun cutbacks. I was glad to be out.

I really wish I was able to get out more often, especially ahead of my big San Onofre surf trip. I miss seeing friends in the water.

Surf:  5.9 ft at 7.1 s from the WNW at 293°.

I wasn’t sure about this morning: winds looked high at the buoy, it was a short period swell, and the tide was kinda high… but I’m glad I gave it a shot.

There were a few corners working. Small, but pretty decent. The current was booking and one spot proved challenging enough to stay on that I had the whole peak to myself. I didn’t expect that on a nice day.

It’s been a challenge getting in the water lately. Work. Stress. Travel. I almost didn’t go out for those two reasons alone. I’m glad I did.

Surf: 3.9 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 285°. Low tide. Light winds.

This morning had everything going against it. Small, short period swell, low tide, and a little bit of a WSW breeze. It did, however, have one very important thing going for it and that’s the fact that I’ve been out of the water ALL MONTH. Today was my one shot to surf so I took it.

The rest of the month was a mix of challenges (got sick, had lots of work,) and fun things (got to spend some time with my baby nephew!) and rain, all of which kept me out of the water. It happens.

The surf was objectively not great, but it was rideable enough to claim a real live wave or two. Otherwise it was all closeouts, current, and trying to make the most of things that almost looked like waves.

Surf: 4.3 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 272°

More wind, slightly mixed up swell, lots of reasons to sleep in this morning. Thankfully I got up and got out there. Between the conference and the rain, I’m not sure when I’ll get back out. There were plenty of litte rides here and there and surprisingly good spirits for a Friday.