Battle Damage

Surf: 2-3 ft.+ knee to chest high and poor-fair conditions.

PM REGIONAL OVERVIEW: Semi-clean surf prevails this afternoon as our mix of NW wind/groundswell and SW swell continues. Better breaks have knee-waist high+ surf, with set to chest/shoulder high for standouts. There are a few workable corners and sections to be had if you have the time.

This morning’s dawn patrol: Foggy…expect clean semi-peaky lines with some workable corners.


I dinged up my board pretty good today. I wiped out on a wave in such a way that the board pearled, was pulled under, then shot out the back of the wave before coming down rails first on my head. It hurt pretty good and it took a chunk out of my rails, but my head is fine. I was able to make it to shore okay and with a little ice I was right in no time.

I did get once nice little ride out of the day before hurting myself.
There was an awesome moment when I was paddling out over a wave and as the face started to steepen I could see hundreds of blue and green fish lit up in the sunlight. Totally beautiful.

Can’t wait to get back out (but hoping for fewer bumps and bruises).