Archive for December, 2011
Friday, December 16th, 2011
Surf: Shoulder High, closed out.
Maybe I’ve been working too late, but I miss last winter’s sandbars. This morning was mostly closed out with some occasional waves. Long lulls and two solid rides, but mostly disorganized closeouts.
Found myself later in the day thinking about last year. Those two sandbars lined up SO well damn nearly every single day last winter. There have certainly been some fun days out there this year, but so far it hasn’t lived up to the glassy peeling chest-shoulder high glory I remember.
Maybe my nostalgia hoodie is on a little too tight?
I’m sure after two weeks in Indiana I’ll be happy just to be in the water.
Wednesday, December 14th, 2011
Surf: Start – Waist High, Finish – Head high. Clean, lully.
Yay, another mellow Ocean Beach day! Or at least a day that looked like it was going to be mellow…
Paddling out the waves were very mellow. Waist high sets would roll through with some frequency but the paddle was relatively easy. After a few waves, it was pretty evident that the size was increasing.
I’ve been pretty lucky my last few times out at Ocean Beach. I’ve been out on mellow days with low to no current and an easy paddle. Today was a bit harder. I had at least two paddles back to the lineup that must have taken at least 20-30 minutes. It may not seem like very long compared to the 45 minute paddles most folks do on bigger days, but on my longboard unable to duck dive it was a lot of punching, pushback, punching, paddling, pushback, etc etc.
I was really starting to appreciate those lulls. Whew.
I got some pretty dang fun waves today. Lots of big drops, long rides, and swooping turns. I got one big one on the outside that was quite a drop. There was a moment when I was screaming down the line that I realized all the shortboarders on the inside were looking at me with some very wide eyes. I’m sure it was a mix of “that girl on the longboard is going to run me over” and “I am about to take a pretty big wave on the head.” I hope I did everything right to not embarrass myself. I made my drop, I didn’t run anyone over, and I almost made it to the shoulder after a few tentative turns.
After a few more lovely waves, I decided to go for another big one. I was way too deep. I fell out of the air, attempted to still land, bit it, then went over the falls with my longboard. Oww. I managed to whack my forearm and my shin on the rail pretty good while swashing around, but hey, I didn’t “lose” my board I guess.
I paddled back out to shake it off before getting a super fun right all the way to the beach. Fun fun.
Sunday, December 11th, 2011
Surf: Thigh-Waist+ and Crumbly. Very textured.
I wasn’t going to surf. I had plans to work, do laundry, and other rather dull things. As usual, a little bit of nudging got me out of the house and down to the beach.
Conditions were pretty much not great. Onshore winds, small crumbly waves, and lots and lots of disappointed shortboarders.
Luckily I have a lot of experience surfing junk. ;D
I got a handful of scrappy shoulders in. After one especially long ride doding section after section, another surfer paddled over to me and said “That last ride you got convinced me it was worth paddling back out for one more.”
Made me feel pretty warm and fuzzy on an otherwise cold and crummy surf day. Hopefully my wave didn’t lead the poor dude astray.
Tuesday, December 6th, 2011
Surf: Waist-Chest High, smooth, and super mellow. 4′ @ 10s, NW.
I love mellow days at Ocean Beach. I get to surf with folks I don’t normally get to surf with and the change of scenery is nice.
With the high tide things were pretty soft. I had a few embarrassing moments paddling out and paddling for waves. I’m still huffing and puffing from being sick and I”m always nervous at Ocean Beach since I don’t normally surf there. After a few blown waves, I got into a much better groove.
Stoooooked. I got a few nice drops followed by long swooping rides. Beautiful morning too!
Friday, December 2nd, 2011
Surf: Low tide, low wind, little bit messy. WH-CH.
Nice sunrise and better than expected conditions given the tide and how lousy conditions had been lately. Still not that great. Lots of closeouts. I got a wave or two that counted 1) as a wave and 2) as fun. CAn’t beat that big pink sky tho. Wow!