Archive for March 21st, 2012
Wednesday, March 21st, 2012
Surf: Waist-Chest high. More closed out than yesterday.
It’s that old surfer idiom: Ya shoulda been here yesterday.
Folks were trying to keep from outright saying it, but in the lot and the lineup I heard plenty of: “Man, yesterday was great”s and “Wow, was I ever glad I paddled out yesterday”s
Today was much more closed out, but got a little better towards the end. The waves that didn’t close out were plenty fun, but things were so inconsistent the only way to know a wave was going to stay open was to go for it and see! I had a pretty great one what just didn’t work out. Took it, went for a bit of a high line, the thing dumped and I skipped down the face a while before going back up and over the falls. Wheeeeeee. At least I got a good laugh out of it.