- Sat 7 - Apr 2012
Surf: 3-5ft. Clean. Occasionally inconsistent. 3ft @ 11s from the W 261°
Oh man, it feels like I’ve been out of the water for EVER. There’s been wind, there’s been rain, there’s even been me not being able to get out of bed before 7.
There’s nothing to get my stoke meter back in black like a nice mellow Ocean Beach day.
After a few logistical hangups and some confusion, I wound up paddling out by myself before running into Drew and Josh in the lineup. I got some very fun waves. While I normally ride a singlefin, it’s a lot of fun to swoosh around nice Ocean Beach waves on my tri-fin. Wheeee-hhheeee. Worked on some mean leans and some cutbacks. Had pretty much all solid waves till I got greedy taking a wave in and faceplanted on a hollow inside section. Nearly bodysurfed that wave in.
Very happy to be back in the water!