Mellow

2015-LM-01-22

Surf: 3.6 ft at 11.4 s from the WNW at 289°

All the forecasts suggested big waves on the way, but the morning stayed pretty mellow. When I first rolled up, the whole ocean was practically flat. I was not expecting that.

Thankfully the early morning window was pretty clean and there were some fun ones mixed in with the waiting. I worked on sticking the rail right in, all the way up to the last bit of wave. It was pretty fun, nice and chill.