2015-LM-11-29a

2015-LM-11-29b

Surf: 5.6 ft at 21.1 s from the WNW at 283°. Outgoing tide.

I got up this morning, looked at the cams and buoys and thought: “maybe it’s still small and friendly. Maybe that big giant swell isn’t here just yet.”

By the time I got my act together and got down there, all the small and friendly waves were gone and the big new swell was moving in. With the hide tide it was whomping close to shore, but all around not completely unrideable. I got a few waves in, even with my sore shoulder.

Really nice to see everyone’s weekend photos from Ocean Beach. Wow, was that pretty. Way outta my leauge, but so pretty.