Surf: 7.6 ft at 16.0 s from the W at 278°
I was feeling a little under the weather today, but I wanted some exercise so I paddled out. I said “oh, maybe just 45 minutes or so” “I’ll go in if I start feeling worse” and all sorts of other promises. I was huffing and puffing pretty hard by the time I made it out, but I promised myself I’d just paddle around a bit and see what happens.
What happened pretty quickly was I drifted south. I wasn’t feeling like battling the current so I went with it. I got a few waves, most of them kinda crummy or quickly botched, before finally getting a decent one. I paddled in and watched Chris get a really nice one from the beach. People were totally killing it at the next peak over. It made me wish I had my log with me. Swoooosh.