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Saturday, June 11th, 2016


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Surf: 5.3 ft at 8.3 s from the WNW at 296°. Incoming tide.

Last week was so busy. I didn’t get out to surf at all. I was hoping for a few waves today to even thing out, but pulling up I saw some ragged, closed out, meh looking waves. What I also saw were humpback whales all over the place. There were a couple groups catching their fill of fish. It was SO COOL.

Thankfully the rest of the session was much better than it looked. I got a few waves here and there (after a lousy paddle out) and got lots of great views of the whales doing their thing. Below is a video from someone on the beach. How cool is that. 😀

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Sunday, June 5th, 2016

Beach Day


Surf: 4.6 ft at 12.1 s from the W at 260°. Incoming.

Headed up to Bolinas for a coworker’s birthday. The weather was amazing. The waves were small, but with the right trimming, there were long rides to be found. I had a lot of fun paddling around and did a little bit of cross stepping. A gal paddled over and asked how I “do that thing where you’re way up on the front.” I told her the back rail had to be really in the wave and that even if it’s not, I just go for it and fall on my face a lot. I’m not sure it’s the most helpful advice, but she was catching waves pretty well so hopefully she’ll be there in no time. A day like this is a great day to practice!


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Tuesday, May 31st, 2016

Chilly bodysurf sesh


Surf: 4.3 ft at 17.4 s from the SSW at 195°. Outgoing.

The surf was small and basically shorebreak today. I decided to bodysurf rather than go risk my fin in the shallows. Wouldn’t you know it, the day people in the lot are giving me shit about the holes in my wetsuit is also the day the water is FREEEEEZING cold? I said nah, it’s fine, I can hold out till November and get another suit in the fall. Then, about chest deep in the water I though, hmm, maybe this suit is a little too chilly for comfort.

I got a comple fun waves. Sure enough, it looked better as I was about to leave. By then I was too frozen to grab the board and catch a few more.

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Monday, May 30th, 2016

Memorial Day Weekend Monday


Surf: 5.6 ft at 8.3 s from the NW at 309°.

Finally managed to get up and get doing at a decent hour this weekend. With the holiday, it was crowded, but it was still pretty fun. There were some lefts and some rights working. It was still a funky mix of closeouts and waves that didn’t break, but the weather was amazing and every now and then a wave would work.

Thank you, Coast Guard for your service.


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Sunday, May 29th, 2016

Memorial Day Weekend Sunday


Surf: 6.2 ft at 8.3 s from the NW at 314°.

Had brunch with Wes and Kate before they headed up to wine country, and then promptly fell asleep. Eventually I woke up and got my butt down to the beach. The surf was still funky and it was cold and windy, but eventually it shaped up to somethign really fun. There was one spot that was peeling just enough and the beach cleared out as it got colder. Not bad.

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Saturday, May 28th, 2016

Memorial Day Weekend Saturday


Surf: 4.9 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 309°.

Wes and Kate are in town for the weekend! Being a fantastic host, I left them on beach while I went surfing. They hiked up the hill to get a good view of all the whales. I couldn’t see from the water (it was a little too rough) but apparently there were whales all over the place. What a treat!

The surf was funky, but a few waves worked out. I found a right that let me zip on through before letting me out without slamming shut. We kept it brief so as to not be comepletely rude, then followed up with a walk along Devil’s Slide to see if we could spot more whales.


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Friday, May 27th, 2016

Sunday with Meghan


Surf: 4.3 ft at 11.4 s from the NW  at 312°.

Meghan and I paddled out this morning for the second voyage of her Cheesepuff Wavestorm. It was small, not TOO chrowded (but Sunday so it was crowded), and there was warm sunshine. That’s a pretty good recipie for a fun beginner day.

I took out my 7′ quad, which I haven’t taken out in ages. It’s still fun! I thought it might help me sit further inside so I could help Meghan find a good spot. We never found the right spot for her, but we got close. 🙂

I totally spaced on logistics, otherwise I would have stuck around to surf with Chris a little. Seems like the rest of the morning was pretty dang pleasant, too.


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Tuesday, May 17th, 2016

Funky Tuesday


Surf: 7.6 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 302°. Incoming tide.

The swell finally came up and with it, the funk. The waves were crossed up and a little windblown, but it wasn’t impossible. We started out on the south end and got a few waves here and there before paddling north and trying that out. Both side of the beach were short rides and some weird sections. Still nice to get out, especially in this warm weather!



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Saturday, May 14th, 2016



Surf: 2.6 ft at 14.8 s from the SW at 219°. South winds. Outgoing tide.

The swell has really died down this week. We drove around a while looking for something breaking. There was one corner that looked pretty dang good, but there were a lot of people on it and it’s a spot not known for it’s party waves. Back up north things has a little bit of wind on them. The tide was coming in and it didn’t look too bad so we paddled out.

I surfed terribly. I was struggling with the steep closeouts, even on these little waves. Ahh well. Once the tide came up, I got into a better groove. In the mean time, there were dolphins and whales all over the place so there was plenty to watch. A dolphin cruised right past Chris and a couple whales jumped out of the water on their way north.

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Friday, May 6th, 2016

Onshore grey


Surf: 5.9 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 303°. Onshore. Outgoing.

I’ll admit, I had some high hopes for this morning. I thought maybe with the storm coming that there’d be favorable winds, but sadly it was onshore and ragged. I’ve surfed worse, so I still had some fun.

Oh, and there was a photographer out. He got some nice ones of Chris and one or two of me.

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Check out his site at: Stoney’s Photography


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