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Wednesday, February 18th, 2015

A little bit better



Surf: 3.6 ft at 16.0 from the WSW at 238°, less tide but still very high.

Today was a little bit better. Waves were still on the sloppy side, but there was more size and a little bit of shape here and there. It took plenty of patience, paddling, and watching, but really, wasn’t so bad. I swooshed my log around some sections and got a little bit of shuffling in. Last week was too busy to get in any surf time, so I’m grateful for even these less than stellar waves.

Chris has a new flothru fin from Surfapig. He needs more time and better waves to give it a proper test, but so far so good! It looks super cool, too. I can’t wait to try it out.

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Tuesday, February 17th, 2015



Surf: 2.3 ft at 13.8 s from the SW at 229°. High tide.

The tide was a little too high this morning for the lack of swell. Most places were seeing shin high shorebreak, if that. After a little driving around, we settled on somewhere with a bit of a wave shaped blob and lots of wind. Upside, very few people out. There were a few waves that worked here and there. I blew what was probably the wave of the day, but managed to squeeze lemonade out of a few other barely-wave waves.

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Thursday, February 5th, 2015

South Winds


Surf: 7.6 ft at 12.1 s from the W at 268°

Yay! The south winds are up which means that rain is on the way. I got going a little too early this morning and spent a a good 15 minutes standing around in the dark trying to make out if there were even waves out there. It was much smaller that yesterday and plenty closed but fun enough with the right gust of wind to keep things going. No rain yet today, but it should be coming sometime soon!

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Wednesday, February 4th, 2015




Surf: 5.3 ft at 11.4 s from the WNW at 293°

Nice to come back to cold waters when there’s such a beautiful sunrise. As is my tradition, my first day back from nice waves means weird, sloshy waves. Thankfully it was still surf-able and I got to say hello to lots of folks. Wound up making a couple waves work under a very pink morning sky.

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Tuesday, January 27th, 2015

Waikiki Tuesday


Surf: 2.3 ft at 11.8 s from the W at 275°

I snuck out for a little more surf. Since I’m walking down there and it’s too far for a surf check first, I wasn’t entirely sure what was in store. I figured it was totally flat, I’d at least get a nice paddle around the bay and check out the spots.

Thankfully there were some fun little thigh high cruisers out there. I started at Canoes because it was a bit more frequent and shaped oh so nice for working on my steps. After a few waves, I paddled back to Queens for less crowded waves and a bit more oomfh. Sadly I didn’t have time to try a few of the other spots. I had to take a conference call. I listened in the park for a bit, then hung out by the pool to listen a little longer. Pretended to noseride on the edge of the pool.


Massages, malasadas, and lunch after.

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Sunday, January 25th, 2015

Waikiki Sunday


Surf: 7.9 ft at 14.3 s from the NW at 313°

Yay! Hawaii! I’m out here for a friends birthday and, while she isn’t a big ocean fan, I’m still trying to sneak in a bit of surf. Today I caught some waves while waiting for her flight to get in.

Many thanks to Blam, for lending me both his house and his surfboard.

There were some smooth, mellow, small waves thanks to big swell wrapping around from the NW. I got plenty of cruising time in and even a little cross stepping.

After surf (and after wolfing down a plate lunch,) I swam a few laps at Kaimana. I didn’t get out too far, there were lots of surfers and outriggers out, but I did get to see a sea turtle and so many many fish. What a nice little morning!

Wound up late to pick up my friend, but snuck in a little bit of time to pick up a lei.

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Friday, January 23rd, 2015



Surf: 6.2 ft at 21.1 s WNW at 290°

While still on the smallish side, this long period energy was doing my favorite corners no favors. Maybe it was the wrong angle? Maybe there isn’t enough sediment to make for a decent bar or fill in around the rocks? Not sure, but the little spot I was hoping would shine in these conditions wasn’t really working. But hey, I’ve surfed worse. Had plenty of fun throwing myself into closeouts and trying to hang on till the last possible moment. Not so bad.

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Thursday, January 22nd, 2015



Surf: 3.6 ft at 11.4 s from the WNW at 289°

All the forecasts suggested big waves on the way, but the morning stayed pretty mellow. When I first rolled up, the whole ocean was practically flat. I was not expecting that.

Thankfully the early morning window was pretty clean and there were some fun ones mixed in with the waiting. I worked on sticking the rail right in, all the way up to the last bit of wave. It was pretty fun, nice and chill.

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Friday, January 16th, 2015



Surf: 4.9 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 297°

Sure feels good to get a 4 session run in. Yew. Sure, it’s small waves and yeah it’s been a little crowded, but just being able to get up 4 days in a row and surf without doing my shoulders in has been a real treat. Lots of good cruising, lots of swooping and swooshing. Pretty stoked on my little week.

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Thursday, January 15th, 2015



Surf: 5.6 ft at 14.8 s from the WNW at 284°

Wheee, another fun, cruisey morning. Still small, but nice seeing friendly folks and less crowd. Swooping and swooshing along. Watched Chris paddle the beach and back, too. I’m not up for that just yet, but it was fun watching him blast around. The guy can paddle, that’s for sure!

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