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Saturday, July 26th, 2014

Bodysurf beach day



Surf: 5.3 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 319°. Windy. Outgoing tide.

It’s been so warm we took advantage of the weather for a beach day. The surf was pretty terrible and my shoulder was acting up again so I traded the board for fins. While I mostly just got drug around by the current, there were some fun little corners and lots and lots of By-the-wind Sailors coming ashore.

After an ice-cream pit stop at Polly Ann’s, I stopped by the north end of the beach to say hi to some friends.



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Thursday, July 24th, 2014

Warm water


Surf: 3.9 ft at 7.1 s from the WNW at 290° and building.

It’s been a pretty lousy week. I’ve been running around for work that has been less than rewarding. So, with nothing on the schedule for Thursday, I jetted off to see if I could find some surf. It started out flat and grey, but kinda workable, but by the end, there were waves and there was plenty of sun. I got sunburnt for sure. Oww. Overall, not bad. Worked on some quick turns.

Water is SO warm. They’re saying it’s a record high maybe 65°, hasn’t been this warm since the 80′s. I was roasting. Beautiful weather.

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Tuesday, July 15th, 2014

Solo morning, low tide


Surf: 4.9 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 312°, low tide.

I’ve been out of practice getting up and getting moving in the morning. The guys were headed to Santa Cruz for a pre-meeting surf and I rolled on to the usual spots. The tide was so low there was barely any water to surf and hardly any waves to chase down. Thankfully all I need is a little bit of room to work on my one step. Step, splash, step, splash. Now if I can just make getting up a habit again, I should be all set.

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Wednesday, July 9th, 2014

Back again


Surf: 5.9 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 310°. Low tide.

A little unexpected to be back so soon. The guys had another meeting. Smaller today and I wow was my neck hurting, but still rideable and still kinda fun. I had a little moment of surf etiquette to debate. My friend lives down in SC and was leaving the state soon for grad school. I’d told him we were surfing yesterday, but wasn’t sure if it was appropriate to call him at 4am, when I found out we were headed back, or even 6 am when we were suiting up. Around 7:30 I saw him giving me the “huh?” shrug from the cliffs. Thankfully he wasn’t mad I didn’t give him the heads up. We got a few waves and all was well. After that: breakfast!

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Tuesday, July 8th, 2014

New log in SC – Afternoon


Surf: 6.2 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 303°

After a solid breakfast an a tour of my friend’s place in Santa Cruz, I headed back out for a few waves more. Sunnier and a little more crowded, but still fun. Since I got so many waves in the morning I opted to work on my steps. I managed to do a full step over step over step cross step all the way to about 5 inches or so from the nose. YESSSSS. Once I get a little more confidence, maybe I can cheat a five or something. Rounded off the wave walking back for a little move, too. Starting to get somewhere! I just need more surf days and more smooth waves :D

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Tuesday, July 8th, 2014

New log in SC – Morning


Surf: 5.9 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 298°

Taking my new board out in Santa Cruz has been high on my list of summer goals. Today was a good morning for it. Small, clean, super chill. That board is so buttery! It swoops. I got in a few steps, too. Loving the new style. I’m going to have to work pretty hard to catch up with what the board can do, but I’m looking forward to trying. :)

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Sunday, July 6th, 2014

July 4th Weekend


Surf: 2.6 ft at 13.8 s from the S at 184°

Took the new board out at the home break today. :D

Surf was pretty sloppy and a little mushy, but still plenty fun. I surfed for a while while Chris took the handplane. We swapped after a few waves. I was hoping to get another opinion on my board. So far, so good. I got some great rides on the handplane, too. Pretty good end to the holiday weekend!

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Tuesday, July 1st, 2014

Seea Neoprene and Surf Leggings Review


I wanted to do a review of my Seea neorpene after the Hawaii trip last fall, but unfortunately didn’t have any photos of me sporting the goods. Super glad I packed my jacket and shorts for this trip, the water was in the 70′s in southern California and the neoprene was perfect for morning and sunset surfs.

First up on these: the fit.

I’m a large and the jacket fit perfectly. The sleeves fell right at the wrists, even with my long arms. The shorts are high waisted, which was very comfortable (no sunburned lower back, to water flushing down my shorts.) I did wear bikini bottoms under them. My legs might be a little bigger than the intended fit and the cuffs rolled up a bit my first paddle out. It wasn’t immodest or anything, but I thought I’d feel a bit more comfortable with bottoms under, just in case. Doing so also made it so I could take the shorts off for the hike back up the cliff once the sun had warmed things up.

People in the water tend to ask about the zipper. It’s padded enough by the cut of the neoprene that I don’t feel it paddling. I can unzip it to about the middle of my upper chest before the zipper clacks on the board. I tried it unzipped all the way and it was fine but caught a little extra water.

So far it’s held up to hikes down cliffs (in CA and HI,) it’s held up to drying over the side mirror on the van, it’s even lasted through a really long (sad) six months put away between trips.

Love it! It’s pretty classic, not too girly, and not too dudish. I’ll admit, my roommate burst out laughing seeing the shorts out of context, but thought it looked super cute all together.

It’s also easy to mix and match the shorts and jacket with other stuff. I wore the jacket with my palm-tree leggings and the shorts with my rashguards no problem. It was especially helpful in Hawaii where the water was so warm I mostly ended up wearing the shorts and a rashie in the morning.

In other gear news: I finally got to try out my surf leggings! Yay!

I got these for Mexico trips and hadn’t gotten a chance to try them out until now. These are GREAT. No sunburn, no board rash, no hiking up or slipping down. I got the Pacifica ones which are very lightweight. It should be perfect for Mexico so I can keep covered without getting overheated.

They came to about mid-calf on me which is either because I’m tall or is the older style of cut. The ones on the site now look like they are closer to ankle.

They got the same treatment as the neoprene, but with the added challenge of having to charge through brush coming up and down the cliff. No snags!

Definitely getting a pair of the Calaifa leggings when they’re in stock again.


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Saturday, June 28th, 2014

Road trip south – Saturday Morning

Surf: 1.6 ft at 15.4 s from the SSW at 198°. Low tide

Oh man, so excited. I waxed the board up last night before dinner and probably woke up a dozen times thinking “is it time to surf yet?! :D” before finally getting up around 5. Time to surf time to surf!

We were the first people out. Not a soul up or down the beach. In fact, I think those dots in surfapig’s photo are probably us.

I shuffled out (stingrays!) and paddled over to a glassy, but little bit closed out peak. Tide was low, but man, we had every peak all to ourselves, warm water and a new board to try!

First off, this board paddles like a dream. Wow. Even at 9’5 doesn’t feel as big as my 9’4. It’s smooth. It’s not so bulky when trying to punch through white water. It’s really nice! Didn’t try any fancy moved on it just yet, still getting a feel for it but I’m super stoked.

AND I got to wear my neoprene jacket and shorts. Yay for warm water!


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Friday, June 27th, 2014

Road trip south – Thursday and Friday



Road trip! Road trip! :D :D :D

We headed south for the Surfapig Luau. It’s camping, it’s a pile of pigs for you to borrow and surf, and it’s a pig roast, too.

Rented a van from Ours was a big astro van named Big T. Had a bed, a little kitchen, a shade structure, chairs, the works. Totally cozy and not too big to drive.

First stop on our trip, meeting up with the lovely Ashley Lloyd to pick up a new log she’d been working on for me.

:D I love it. Wow do I ever love this board. Yeah, okay, I got a little carried away with ideas for the glassing and it didn’t turn out exactly as I’d imagined, but it’s beautiful and wow wow wow. I can’t wait to get it into the water. The rails, the belly, the tail kick, it all looks FUN. So excited!

After that, rolled down central CA. Dinner and a lovely walk in Paso Robles (plus ice gelato!) Sunset over the hills. Wonderful drive.


Just past Gavitoa we hit crazy winds, 40+ mph winds just roaring over the mountains. There was a tractor trailer overturned on 101 and it was getting dark. We decided to pull off. Refugio campground was full but El Capitan had one spot open. A camper in a tent couldn’t take the howling winds and gave up. It was pretty lucky for us and extra lucky we’d through to get a van. The wind blew the curtains to the van around a bit, but otherwise were were safe and sound and relatively unbothered by the howling windstorm.



Woke up to a beautiful view and an amazing beach. What a great spot to wind up camping at. Wow! Look at those cliffs!

We waffled a bit on if we should surf somewhere along the way, or blast on down the coast. Hungry bellies made the decision and we got breakfast in Malibu. Surf didn’t look too exciting and we were itching to get groceries, set up camp, and surf surf surf so we kept rolling. Maybe next time, Malibu.

Got down to the bluffs and set up camp. My new board wasn’t waxed yet and needed the fin put on. Plus I was all around being weird about taking a bright shiny new board out at a break I didn’t know and hadn’t even seen yet. I grabbed my hull and a wetsuit and scrambled down the cliff.

About 3 strenuous tugs into pulling up my wetsuit I thought, wow, this is a terrible idea. I’m sweating buckets just trying to get this on. I brought an old holey one hoping it would be cooler, but it’s one of the ones impossible to get on. Once I got it on and jumped in the water… the water was 70°! Whelp, don’t need to wear the wetsuit tomorrow!

The hull was fun! The waves had a little wind on them, but they’re warm, pretty forgiving, and fun fun fun. YAY road trip!


Surf: 1.6 ft at 15.4 s from the SSW at 195°

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