Author Archive

Tuesday, October 6th, 2015

Small again

Surf: 2ft @ 15s from the WSW at 232°. High tide. 

That swell sure dropped fast! 

I rolled up in the dark and could see just a few glassy ripples. Paddling out, I could just barely make out waves. Thankfully there were a few out there. With a little patience, I was able to get some nice peeling waves and shuffle way up the nose. Chris swooshed his way through all the little sections. It was pretty fun. Seems like small summer waves aren’t over just yet. 

No Comments » - Posted in surfing,Uncategorized by

Sunday, October 4th, 2015


Surf: 6.2 ft at 10.8 s from the NW at 314°. Incoming tide.

Still plenty of swell and it was even a little less closed out. My favorite spot was a zoo of grumpy people so I didn’t get the same cruising fun as yesterday. With more peaks to choose from, it was easy to move north and find somewhere new. Had a pretty fun morning, but man, my shoulders and neck are a mess after this weekend’s run of surf. I’m not sure if it’s tension from the size and from the crowds, or if I’m just sore. Oooch. Might take tomorrow off jus in case.

No Comments » - Posted in surfing by

Saturday, October 3rd, 2015


Surf: 10.2 ft at 12.1 s from the WNW at 289°. Incoming. Light winds.

It’s been so nice and small and glassy at the beach all week. I was surprised to roll up and see head high closeouts shaking the beach and sending boards flying at every angle. I almost didn’t paddle out. I though ugh, no way. It’s crowded, it’s big, it’s whompsville.

Thankfully CG encouraged me to give it a shot. My favorite little corner of the beach turned out to be an absolute blast. The wind was hitting it just right to keep things open for long cheater 5s and a little cross step practice. I did not get whomped. I managed a decent time with the crowd. It was a beautiful morning. 😀

No Comments » - Posted in surfing by

Monday, September 28th, 2015


Surf: 4.9 ft at 10.0 s from the NW at 324°

The surf was pretty small today, but at least it was clean. I had a few moments where it was just three of us out on a little peak, making the most of the waves on offer. It was fun, but it was a lot of waiting. More and more people paddled out and it became harder to make something work. That’s ok, I headed in to work at a decent time instead.

No Comments » - Posted in surfing by

Friday, September 25th, 2015


Surf: 4ft @ 7s from the WNW at 309°. High tide. 

If yesterday was weird, today was pretty funky. Way more doubled up and a lot less clean, but still decent enough. I got a few zippy, walkable rights right off the bat. Plenty of sloshing around underwater that makes me think fall is here. Weird “the wave is only breaking the the rip” problems that make me think fall is not yet here. 

No Comments » - Posted in surfing by

Thursday, September 24th, 2015


Surf: 3′ @ 6s from the WNW at 303°. High tide. Light local winds. 12 mph at the buoy. 

I had some pretty low expectations for today. The weekend was really fun and the winds out at sea were blowing. I figured it would be a mess at the beach. 

It was actually pretty rideable! The morning started out clean but a little inconsistent. As the tide rolled in, the waves got weirder, but there were more of them. I shuffled way up on some inside sections. Not bad out there. 

No Comments » - Posted in surfing by

Sunday, September 20th, 2015

Sunday Beachday!

Surf: 4ft @ 8s from the WNW at 307°

Rad! Another Beachday! It’s even hotter today so I was relieved to tag along to a friend’s son’s beach birthday. The waves were gentle and fun. It was great to see lots of beachy folks, too. 

Almost got up on the nose during some zippy inside sections. Tons of fun. 

Wrapped the weekend up with fish tacos, beer, ice cream, and an amazing sunset!

No Comments » - Posted in surfing,Uncategorized by

Saturday, September 19th, 2015

Beach day with Tahoe




Surf: 4.6 ft at 7.1 s from the NW at 314°

Beach day! 😀

It’s hot this weekend so we hit the beach for the Big Chill Out with Lindsay and her dog Tahoe. Tahoe is a total beach dog. Loud horn from the contest? No problem! Lots of other dogs and people? No problem! Plenty of waves to jump through? He couldn’t get enough.

The contest was fun to watch and I got a few fun waves of my own off on the sidelines. Lots of fancy footwork and moves from the other surfers. Folks bringing their A game for the contest.

Spent the rest of the afternoon laying around on the sand, eating snacks 😀

No Comments » - Posted in surfing by

Thursday, September 10th, 2015



Surf: 3.9 ft at 16.0 s from the SSW at 193°.

The morning started totally socked in with fog. We’ve been in a heatwave and wow, is this grey morning ever welcome. This is the summer I’ve missed. Grey, glassy mornings with mellow little waves and an easy paddle. The swell slowed down a bit, but there was still a little bit of a wave here and there to get some practice in. Hoping for more glassy, grey mornings ahead.

No Comments » - Posted in surfing by

Wednesday, September 9th, 2015



Surf: 3.6 ft at 16.0 s from the SSW at 204°

Wow, the ocean was so glassy and pink this morning to match the amazing sunrise. The waves were small, but super smooth. I got in a little cross stepping practice and even found a few lefts were I could really get the rail in and hang way out on the nose all the way into the last closed-out section. Fun fun.

No Comments » - Posted in surfing by