Author Archive


Friday, May 15th, 2015

Friday

2015-LM-05-15

Surf: 4.9 ft at 11.4 s from the WNW at 299°

Hopefully it rained in the mountains because the city stayed dry and sunny most of the day. The wind picked up a bit, but I thought perhaps the surf would still be worth checking. The waves were bumpier for sure, but I’m glad I went. I’d shaken off some of the dust from my 6’10 skills and got a few more waves than yesterday. Saw lots of folks and got a little more exercise. Not bad!

No Comments » - Posted in surfing by

Thursday, May 14th, 2015

Better wind

2015-LM-05-14

Surf: 3.6 ft at 13.8 s from the WNW at 282°

Now that we are deep into this drought, the chance that it might rain is pretty exciting in and of itself. The chance for better winds ahead of the storm (rather than howling NW winds) had me very hopeful for a couple surfy mornings.

I took out my 6’10 (9’5 is in the shop) so I was struggling a little, but still plenty fun to get a few and watch everyone else cruising by.

Fingers crossed for rain.

No Comments » - Posted in surfing by

Wednesday, May 6th, 2015

Cowells

2015-SCC-05-06

Surf: 9.5 ft at 10.8 s from the NW at 317°. Low tide.

There’s a moment after convincing a friend to get up super early and drive to Santa Cruz when I think “shoot, I hope the surf isn’t total crap.” I pretty much worry about this the whole ride down. Thankfully, there was still a bit of the swell from earlier in the week, the weather was warm, and the waves were nice and long.

I haven’t surfed the west side in a long time. Aside from the usual Cowells crowd, it was just lovely. Long cruisey waves, waves with a little bit of size, and waves with a little bit of pep (sometimes all at the same time even.) I got a little bit of stepping in, a lot of sneaking around sections, but mostly a lot of exercise paddling around and around. I’m so out of shape. Must surf more to get ready for June’s surf camp trip.

No Comments » - Posted in surfing by

Wednesday, April 22nd, 2015

Ouch

2015-SCHK-04-22

Surf: 12.1 ft at 11.4 s from the NW at 307°. Low tide.

Work’s been busy so I haven’t been able to make many SC trips. I think today was the first time I had made it down since October. Conditions were pretty mellow and the tide was very low. Second wave in, I went to kick out and instead flipped the board and landed right on my fin. Ouch. I landed pretty hard, the whole leg cramped up from the shock. I paddled back out hoping to stretch it out and get a few more waves. Unfortunately bothw aves I tried hurt too much on the pop up to make it worth catching more. Too bad. I watched some other folks catch waves before heading back north with an ice pack and a bruise.

Comments Off on Ouch - Posted in surfing by

Friday, April 17th, 2015

Late NW Swell

2015-LM-04-17

Surf: 8.2 ft at 17.4 s from the WNW at 288°, incoming.

With sprint in full effect, it was pretty interesting to see a big front of swell moving across the forecasting charts. Would it be a mangled, wind swirled mess? Would it be waves? Only one way to know. Headed down to the beach for a look.

Crowded, little bit closed out, plenty foggy and cold, but not so bad! Most of the bigger ones were closing out, but I found a few middle sized waves that passed everybody by. I was working on taking one step, stepping back, turning back into the pocket, repeat. It’s a pretty good little exercise.

Upside of the crowd was seeing lots of friendly folks I haven’t chatted with in a while. If you’re going to be elbow to elbow, might as well do it with a smile. :)

Comments Off on Late NW Swell - Posted in surfing by

Friday, April 10th, 2015

Leftish

2015-LM-04-10

Surf: 2.3 ft at 14.8 s from the WNW at 282°

The swell decreased in size and increased in jumble. Most other spots were either flat or looked worse than the usual spot. Hoping for a repeat of yesterday, we paddled out looking for a left that might work. There was a little, mostly closed out spot to try. It was decently fun. Hard to beat that sunshine and beautiful morning air.

Comments Off on Leftish - Posted in surfing by

Thursday, April 9th, 2015

Rightish

2015-LM-04-09a

2015-LM-04-09b

Surf: 3.6 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 287°

I had some exceptionally low expectations for this morning. The wind has been up, that cams haven’t looked great, but if I want to get back into my weekly routine, sometimes I have to go out and surf some complete crap.

Watching from the beach, there was one little right that looked like it could work. By the time I’d suited up, it looked like it was working. A whole beach of slop and here’s this right, peeling away (lumpily, sure, but it was working.)

I had a plenty fun time in catching that right. I worked on a few steps.Chatted with some folks. It was a way better morning than expected.

Comments Off on Rightish - Posted in surfing by

Friday, April 3rd, 2015

Pleasantly Surprised

2015-LM-04-03

Surf: 6.2 ft at 10.8 s from the WNW at 294°. Incoming.

It was a rough week and I didn’t feel like surfing. When I got “want to go surf?” wake up alarm, I checked the buoys (22mph winds, ugh) and I check the tide (low, ugh) and nearly bailed. I’ve been in this situation before where I feel too down to surf, go anyway and it cheers me up. So I got my gear together and headed out.

Usually if it’s calm at shore and howling winds out at sea, the surf is junk. Even light offshores don’t usually counteract the open water winds. Surprisingly enough, it wasn’t half bad.

Had a nice little morning working on my cross step and making the most our of what was on tap. I’m getting more and more comfortable sticking the rail into waves that look like they’re about to close out, just to see if I can sneak in a step or two. So far so good!

Comments Off on Pleasantly Surprised - Posted in surfing by

Saturday, March 28th, 2015

Saturday Sunset

2015-LM-03-28

Surf: 6.9 ft at 8.3 s from the WNW at 292°

What a day! I had a rehab workout in the morning, hiked 6 miles, then jumped in the ocean to cool off. The surf was pretty lousy, but not totally unrideable. It’s been a couple months since my last sunset surf. It was nice to get a few evening waves, even if they were lumpy and bumpy.

Happy and exhausted.

Comments Off on Saturday Sunset - Posted in surfing by

Thursday, March 26th, 2015

Spring Photos

2015-LM-03-26

Surf: 5.6 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 271°. Windy.

Well, it’s spring, that’s for sure. Windy, sloppy, and a little hard to get motivated.

My friend Brien busted his face all up in a surf accident a few weeks ago. While he’s recovering, he offered to snap some photos on the beach.

The waves weren’t exactly photogenic, but it wasn’t totally unsurfable. Lots of zipping into and out of closeouts. Here’s a few snaps:

2015-LM-03-26-CG

2015-LM-03-26-me

Comments Off on Spring Photos - Posted in surfing by