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Saturday, November 14th, 2015

High Tide

 Surf: 12ft @ 16s from the NW at 314°. Incoming/high tide. Light winds.

We headed north for a few waves today. I was kind of slow to get going this morning so we didn’t get the “right” tide, but we did get some fun waves. Sloshing off the ramp, I headed left instead of the usual right. The tide seemed too high there and, since I haven’t surfed the left side in ages, left side it was!

The left breaking waves was a bit mobbed. I got one fun one and then thought hmm, maybe I’ll try another spot. I wound up on an uncrowded peak that was plenty fun and more on the peppy side that the whomping side. I had a couple really fun ones where the wave started steep, swooped through some sections, then the last long wall I stepped way up to the front to ride it out. I tried to get all the way on the nose and my foot slipped right off. Faceplant!

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Wednesday, November 11th, 2015


Surf: 4ft @ 11s from the WNW at 301°, incoming.

I feel like every time I get back into a good groove, something happens and I’m out of my surfing groove again.

The upside is that, when I am able to get back in the water, if feels almost like I never left.

I’m not feeling great so I skipped the crowd and took a small, inconsistent peak. It was perfect. I got some steps in, I did some swooshing, and I didn’t have to work very hard to enjoy myself. Not bad. Now if I can just do it three more times this week, and next week, and the week after… maybe I can say I’m back for good.

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Sunday, November 1st, 2015


Surf: 5.9 ft at 16.0 s from the W at 272°. Low, incoming.

My shoulder was hurting and the surf was closed out. Perfect for bodysurfing!

Saw a few familiar faces in the water, went over the falls backwards, and got lots of long rides. Fun stuff.

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Friday, October 23rd, 2015



Surf: 7.2 ft at 14.8 s from the WNW at 293°

The forecast and buoys were showing a lot of energy in the water. The thick fog was showing no clues as to wether or not that energy had arrived. I opted for the one part of the beach I could see. There were some long lulls like it was a big swell, but for the most part, it was reasonably sized. I saw Chris getting some nice ones on the next peak over. My peak had a few zippy ones. Plenty of closeouts. All we need are some sand bars and we should be set for some fun this winter.

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Thursday, October 22nd, 2015


Surf: 4ft @ 9s from the W at 276°

High tide, more swell, more wind all add up to more work. Still a few fun ones out there, but a lot more closed out and a lot more paddling. Hopefully days like this will get me back in fall shape. 

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Wednesday, October 21st, 2015

Inside section 

Surf: 4′ @ 9s from the W at 275°. Outgoing. Light offshore. 

I had low expectations for the morning. Paddled out to find a fun little right. It took a fair amount of speed to make the steep inside section so no cross stepping practice today. It was all drop, turn, and swoosh along a good high line. I had a couple so steep it felt like only the smallest edge of the rail was holding on. Whew! 

Great foggy sunrise this morning, too. Light fog all around the little cove. Lovely!

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Sunday, October 18th, 2015

Windy Bo


Surf: 5.3 ft at 13.8 s from the WSW at 256°. Incoming tide. Windy.

I made it back up north despite fighting off a cold. I thought surfing while sniffling could either go well and I get a nice sinus wash, or poorly and I’d be miserable for the rest of the day. Thankfully it was somewhere in the middle. I tried not to overdo it out there (although on a day like today it’s more chasing waves than surfing waves) and snoozed in the afternoon to shake off the rest of feeling lousy.

I did manage to get a good wave or two out there. It was breezy so lefts were really all that were available. It was lumpy, so there was lots of paddling after nothing.

Still, nice to get some fresh air.

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Friday, October 16th, 2015

Waving Sea Lion


Surf: 3.9 ft at 11.4 s from the WSW at 254°. Incoming tide.

The surf really came down from Tuesday. There were dribbly, shallow waves and not much else. I couldn’t tell if it was my sore back or having surfed my 6’10 earlier in the week, but I was surfing pretty terribly. While floating around, blowing waves, I saw a sea lion rolling on it’s back, waving a flipper at me. Hiya!

Eventually I got a wave in that was slightly competent and figured ehh probably good enough.

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Wednesday, October 14th, 2015

Hull Closeouts



Surf: 5.9 ft at 12.1 s from the NW at 304°. Incoming.

I’ve been looking for an excuse to take my hull out for a while. I figured there might be some size and was hoping my usual spot would have some waves on offer. Oddly enough, it didn’t. There was a choice of large closeouts and small closeouts. I went with the small ones and was able to work out a wave here and there with my 6’10. I was mostly relieved I still know how to ride it. I even got in a fancy (but mostly accidental) cutback with some spray.

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Sunday, October 11th, 2015

Lumpy Bo


Surf: 8.9 ft at 13.8 s from the W at 259°. Outgoing.

Hit Bo on the way back down from my wineapalooza weekend. I knew they swell would be dropping (it was supposed to peak the day before) but hoped for some waves. There was some size out there for sure, along with some lumps and doubling mush. It was pretty exhausting chasing down waves but wow, the ones that worked really worked! Chris got a great swooping right that looked like a blast. It broke his leash, but I think it was worth it.

I surfed and surfed and surfed and surf until I was completely exhausted. Great end to the weekend 😀

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