Author Archive

Friday, May 27th, 2016

Sunday with Meghan


Surf: 4.3 ft at 11.4 s from the NW  at 312°.

Meghan and I paddled out this morning for the second voyage of her Cheesepuff Wavestorm. It was small, not TOO chrowded (but Sunday so it was crowded), and there was warm sunshine. That’s a pretty good recipie for a fun beginner day.

I took out my 7′ quad, which I haven’t taken out in ages. It’s still fun! I thought it might help me sit further inside so I could help Meghan find a good spot. We never found the right spot for her, but we got close. 🙂

I totally spaced on logistics, otherwise I would have stuck around to surf with Chris a little. Seems like the rest of the morning was pretty dang pleasant, too.


No Comments » - Posted in surfing by

Tuesday, May 17th, 2016

Funky Tuesday


Surf: 7.6 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 302°. Incoming tide.

The swell finally came up and with it, the funk. The waves were crossed up and a little windblown, but it wasn’t impossible. We started out on the south end and got a few waves here and there before paddling north and trying that out. Both side of the beach were short rides and some weird sections. Still nice to get out, especially in this warm weather!



No Comments » - Posted in surfing by

Saturday, May 14th, 2016



Surf: 2.6 ft at 14.8 s from the SW at 219°. South winds. Outgoing tide.

The swell has really died down this week. We drove around a while looking for something breaking. There was one corner that looked pretty dang good, but there were a lot of people on it and it’s a spot not known for it’s party waves. Back up north things has a little bit of wind on them. The tide was coming in and it didn’t look too bad so we paddled out.

I surfed terribly. I was struggling with the steep closeouts, even on these little waves. Ahh well. Once the tide came up, I got into a better groove. In the mean time, there were dolphins and whales all over the place so there was plenty to watch. A dolphin cruised right past Chris and a couple whales jumped out of the water on their way north.

No Comments » - Posted in surfing by

Friday, May 6th, 2016

Onshore grey


Surf: 5.9 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 303°. Onshore. Outgoing.

I’ll admit, I had some high hopes for this morning. I thought maybe with the storm coming that there’d be favorable winds, but sadly it was onshore and ragged. I’ve surfed worse, so I still had some fun.

Oh, and there was a photographer out. He got some nice ones of Chris and one or two of me.

Screen Shot 2016-05-07 at 7.01.54 PM.png

Screen Shot 2016-05-19 at 8.59.59 PM.png

Check out his site at: Stoney’s Photography


No Comments » - Posted in surfing by

Tuesday, May 3rd, 2016

Borrowed Leash


Surf: 5.9 ft at 13.8 s from the W at 265°. High and incoming tide. Side/onshore winds.

Since I snapped my leash last time, I borrowed one of the heavy duty leashes I bought for Chris afer he’d snapped two leashes in a row. Holy crap those things are SERIOUS. I can’t remember the brand off the top of my head. They’re solid. It felt like I was dragging a pile of kelp behind me, but hey, it didn’t break! I was explaining the situation of me buying Chris this leash after he’d snapped one to Don who said “Don’t ever send her out to buy you a gun, she’ll bring back a cannon.” I might’ve overdone it.

Heavy as it was, the leash didn’t slow me down too much. I got a few fun waves and Jeff got some photos of Chris and I from the beach. Fun stuff!




Check out Jeff’s photos on Instagram.

No Comments » - Posted in surfing by

Sunday, May 1st, 2016

Snapped Leash

2016-05-01 14.21.06

Surf: 4.3 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 288°. Low tide.

Two waves into my session, I snapped my leash. Drat. It was too closed out and crowded to go leashless so I hung out on the beach and watched Chris get some.

Surf was a little mixed up and closed out, but as usual, he was able to find some gems.

It’s entirely possible the snapped leash was one I bought back when I got my first board 8 years ago. I’d been wondering how long it’d last. 8 years a pretty long time! Nice work, little leash!

1 Comment » - Posted in surfing by

Sunday, April 17th, 2016


Surf: 4.6 ft at 17.4 s from the W at 273°. Outgoing tide. NE wind.

I’d said I wasn’t going to surf this week because I didn’t want to get sunburned or bruised up before the wedding, but I wound up with three really lovely sessions this week and only a little sunburn and a few small bruises.

Today’s session was a little closed out and occassionally sideshore, but wow, can’t beat that weather. To keep from getting roasted I slathered myself in thick hippie surf sunblock. It’s basically mud and zinc. I didn’t want to wear my normal sunblock because it causes my skin to break out, but the hippie sunblock has burned me before. My solution was to layer it on so thick I looked like a muddy ghost out in the water. I think it worked. I’m not any more sunburnt than yesterday.

The waves were tricky due to all the people, but we managed to make the most of it. I finally got one great ride in. It was a right whene verything had been going left and it gave me a nice long ride with plenty of time to try and walk up. I’d told Chris “one or two more” but after that one I thought “well, I’m not going to do better today.”

On the way back, there was a swarms of thousands of ladybugs. I’ve never seen that many, even having released them in my garden a few times. Crazy!

Comments Off on Ladybugs - Posted in surfing by

Saturday, April 16th, 2016

Meghan’s Birthday Surf

Surf: 9.2 ft at 12.1 s from the NW at 309°. Outgoing.

Happy Birthday, Meghan!

We couldn’t have asked for a better day for Meghan to take out her new wavestorm and her new wetsuit. It was warm, sunny, the waves were super mellow. Even the crowd was relatively light given what a beautiful day it was.

I got a few really fun ones. I tried to keep working on my steps and a little of the left-go-rights Ashley taught me, but mostly I stayed near Meghan and yelled “PADDLE!PADDLE!PADDLE!” whenever a wave looked like it would get even remotely close.

I hope to have another surf day with her again, soon. 😀

Comments Off on Meghan’s Birthday Surf - Posted in surfing by

Wednesday, April 13th, 2016

Bo Getaway

Surf: 5.3 ft at 13.8 s from the W at 268°. Low tide.

Whew. Work has been busy. Getting ready for my bro’s wedding has been busy. There are birthdays and professional things and house stuff. It’s a lot going on. I headed north for a few easy waves and some sunshine.

The tide was low (low enough that I had to bail on waves that turned into dry sand) but the short rides were plenty fun.

After a while I opted to bodysurf. Jumping in the waves I stepped on something that was not real happy to be stepped on. It was like a large chicken cutlet. Chris B stepped on it, too. A few minutes later, it swam across Chris’s feet. Amazingly, none of the kids stepped on it. Chris poked around instagram and found this guy:

My buddy berendans ray last night. Havent seen it before. Name it! #fish #fisher #fishing #leopardsharkfishing #rayfishing #marinfishing #bolinasbeach #bolinas #marinanglers #pennreels #ripnlips #peelindrag #shorefishing #shorefisher #saltwaterfishing #saltwater #beach #marin #fishon #smile

A photo posted by Nate Adams (@grizzlyadams8) on

Poor Angel Shark probably got hooked the night before, then stepped on by us. I hope things got better for the little creature.

The rest of the day was a mix of beach time, painting time, and other chill out time before it was back to work. I’m pretty sure I’m the only person to walk on the beach in Bolinas in a suit, but I had a meeting to go to. At least it’ll be a good story for all the people who spotted me.

Comments Off on Bo Getaway - Posted in surfing by

Friday, April 8th, 2016

Pre-storm Surf

Surf: 3.3 ft at 11.4 s from the WNW at 283°.

I love love love my pre-storm surf sessions. It had rained a little already, but everything was still in the south winds, mellow waves part of the storm. I was happy to get out there while I could. Once it rains I’ll be out of the water for a while to avoid getting sick before the wedding.

The waves were small, but clean and fun.

Bring on the rain!

Comments Off on Pre-storm Surf - Posted in surfing by