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Sunday, October 16th, 2016

Pre-storm Grey


Surf: 3.3 ft at 13.3 s from the W at 269°. High tide.

Today was a little funkier than yesterday, but still fun, still plenty workable.  I got a couple I was pretty happy about and it was fun watching other frield folks make the most of the morning. It’s always tricky when there’s swell forecasted. Some people get antsy wondering why the big waves aren’t here yet. Me, I’m happy to have a nice, glassy-enough morning. Especially considering how sore I am. Man am I out of shape. 4 surf sessions, couple of Pilates workouts, and a couple concerts and I’m beat. My arms were sore, my lats were sore, even my legs were sore.

There’s rain coming. Hopefully I’ll be back to normal by the time it’s over. I’d love a few more mornings like the last few before the big winter swells arrive.

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Wednesday, October 12th, 2016

Pre-storm Blues


Surf: 3.0 ft at 14.3 s from the WSW at 245°

This morning looked a little closed out and a little uninspiring, but I gave it a shot anyway. I’m glad I did. It was really fun. The waves were small and clean. Lots of friendly folks were out, too. Between my work and my shoulder, I don’t get to see the usual folks nearly as often. It’s nice to hear that everyone’s doing well and catching waves. Well, except for Joel who separated his shoulder. Ouch. Heal up fast and right, man!


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Sunday, October 9th, 2016



Surf: 2.3 ft at 15.4 s from the SW at 234°

More warm, sunny weather! The waves were smaller and the breeze was a little stiffer but it was still pretty fun. Lots of cruising, a little stepping, and tons of glorious sunshine.

After we hopped over to Traveler, Julie Cox’s new shop in Pacifica. It’s rad.

She’s got surf stuff, hiking stuff, clothes, art, and books. She’s hoping to host movies there and is starting a surf club with hot showers and board storage available to members. I think it’s a great idea and I can’t wait to check out her future community events!

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Saturday, October 8th, 2016

Big Chill Out Saturday


Surf: 1.3 ft at 16.7 s from the WSW at 238°

Another warm weekend! With the Big Chill Out going on, the beach was pretty packed. The waves were small but plenty fun and the water wasn’t as crowded as you’d expect.

I wore my watch out in the water for the first time. I pretty much surfed the same 100ft stretch of beach so the GPS map was a bit of a blob. The heart rate was interesting, but I’m not sure how accurate. Today was small so it seems like 185 bpm heart rate was a little much. It’s interesting, but I think I’m fine just surfing without all the metrics.



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Sunday, October 2nd, 2016



Surf: 6.6 ft at 10.0 s from the NW at 310°. Incoming tide. Increasing winds.

Aaron was in town this weekend. We headed down to the Hook early hoping to get some waves before the wind and the tide came up too much. It was small but still pretty fun. I went with my usual strategy of catching the barely waves and working on my steps. I got a set wave or two down at Sharks where there weren’t so many people. Lots of little fish on the inside. Aaron got back into the swing of things. With the tide coming up it started to get funky. Around the time we wrapped the wind was howling. Grabbed a burrito, ice cream, and headed home.

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Wednesday, September 28th, 2016



Surf: 2.3 ft at 10.5 s from the SW at 284°

Today started out foggy, then the sun came out. Things were more closed out, but hey, it’s always good to get out.

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Tuesday, September 27th, 2016



Surf: 2.6 ft at 14.3 s from the SW at 221°.

Rolled up to a clear, sunny beach with a fog back hovering off shore. A few waves in, the bank swallowed the beach whole. I’ve missed these foggy mornings. With almost no wind the waves were nice a smooth. A little closed out, but plenty fun anyway.

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Sunday, September 25th, 2016

Warm weather


Surf: 3.6 ft at 16.7 s from the SW at 218°. Incoming Tide.

Today was diferent story. I had time to go wavehunting and picked a great route to go looking. It was warm, clear, and beautiful out. There were long lulls, but there were waves enough to go around. I surfed till I was sunburnt and my arms were total noodles. Fun fun fun.

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Saturday, September 24th, 2016

Maintenance sesh


Surf: 3.6 ft at 18.2 s from the SW at 241°

After a long and busy week, I didn’t have time to go hunting for a good place to surf. I had time for a maintenece session. The weather was warm and there were lots of sailboats out, but the waves were pretty sloppy. Still, we made the most of it. Got to say hello to some other morning folks who were out and about on the late shift. Not a bad Saturday.

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Friday, September 16th, 2016



Surf: 2.0 ft at 11.1 s from the W at 261°

Wednesday was so fun that I’d set my hopes a little too high for Friday. A lower tide, a slightly different swell, and a breeze all had things looking plenty average. Ahh well. I got some exercise and I ran into Julie Ann in the lot and it sounds like it shaped up for her a little as the tidecame back in. 🙂

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