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Friday, April 11th, 2014

More small surf




Surf: 4.3 ft at 10.8 s from the NW at 308°. Incoming tide. Light winds.

Brien brought his funky little camera to the beach so we goofed around with it while checking the surf.

More small waves and that same little right this morning. Things were holding up a bit better, but the crowd was pretty stacked so it was occasionally a bit of a challenge. I got a few super cruisey waves and a few steps. Lots of dolphins and sea lions out there. Sadly I plowed my board straight in to the dang beach on my second to last wave. Looks like I’ll be doing ding repair this weekend.

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Wednesday, April 9th, 2014

Clear Water


Surf: 5.9 ft at 13.8 s from the WNW at 297°. High tide. No wind.

Headed south for a pre-client meeting surf.

Wow. The water was SO clear and dark. I saw lots of little fish. There were crabs, sea anemones, kelp, all kinds of things to look at.

Up at the surface, the grey skies and grey water were about as smooth as can be which made wave hunting a little exciting. (I think that’s a wave? Oh yep, it’s a wave.)

The spot I picked was perfect for grabbing scrappy little waves no one else wanted. I worked on some swishing, a little stepping, but mostly tried to squeeze every little bit out of these small waves. Got into a pretty good loggy groove.

Had a leisurely morning with breakfast, a cafe stop, and ice cream.

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Tuesday, April 8th, 2014

Little waves


Surf: 5.3 ft at 14.8 s from the W at 280°. High tide. Light/offshore wind.

Fun little waves this morning. The peak with the best wave was pretty packed so we took the next peak over. It was a little more closed out, but still pretty fun. Some bodysurfers were getting wave after wave. Sun was out, even though the fog was thick all around the beach. Nice morning.

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Sunday, April 6th, 2014

Beach/hike Sunday


Surf: 5.9 ft at 19.0 s from the W at 281°. Low Tide.

After Friday’s wet but successful hike, we came back on Sunday for round two with other coworkers and kids. Weather was sunny and warm, a rarity that I’m not sure was appreciated by the little ones. Everyone pulled through. The parking situation was definitely a little wild west, but doable.

Afterwards we hit the beach. I was able to get in a little bit of surf. Not every wave was a closeout, but it was crowded. After working a few lumpy, congested waves, I opted for fins and caught a few more.Saw a sea lion bodysurfing another wave nearby. Even managed an on-wave high five, ha.

Some sand castle building, some sunburn getting (whoops), and a little bit of swimming.

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Friday, April 4th, 2014

Rainy hike


Surf: 3.3 ft at 7.1 s from the W at 277°

The surf looked pretty blown out and meh this morning so we skipped surf and headed to the new Devil’s Slide trail that just opened up off highway 1.

What a great little trail. It’s the old highway 1 router from before the tunnel, so it’s paved rather than a “trail,” but wow, it’s something special. Before the trail it was a bit of a white-knuckled drive, rather hard to really get to check out the view or watch the birds. There’s so much neat stuff to look at! We even saw some sea lions swimming around.

About halfway through the walk it started raining. Pretty amazing to watch the stormclouds come in over the water.

Great spot. I’d recommend checking it out on a weekday as the parking lots are small. There is a shuttle from Pacifica that leaves once an hour on the weekends: Looks like the best place to pick it up is at Pacifica Beach, but it also picks up a variety of places around town.

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Thursday, April 3rd, 2014

Sea Lion


Surf: 4.9 ft at 10.8 s from the W at 279°. Spanning the low tide. Light winds.

Size came down, in theory so did did yuck factor (although that can be disputed), but the closeout factor was still high. It was a little bit ridable, so it counts as “better than expected” in my book.

A big ole sea lion came barging through to catch a few fish.

Same waves were had.

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Wednesday, April 2nd, 2014



Surf: 8.2 ft at 10.8 s from the W at 274°. Incoming tide. Light offshore winds.

Spent a long time staring at the surf this morning. I didn’t have anywhere I needed to be so I waited for the tide to come up and storm pumps to stop pouring dirty water into the sea. Chatted with some folks in the lot about the local wildlife and other stories. Got to hear the Pacifica Tsunami warning test blast. Soaked up some sun.

Finally a wave like wave started to break so I suited up.

I love surfing that spot and plenty of somewhat sectiony, but otherwise fun little shifty waves were happening. I worked on my stepping (and face planting.) I got plenty of waves. I went in.

Ran into Mike who talked me into heading about out for a few more.

Not bad. Wind eventually shifted and turned it all to chop. Went home for a hot shower and general post-storm surf disinfecting. Bleh.

Sketch a Day 92, inspired by parking lot conversation.

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Friday, March 28th, 2014

Not closed out!



Surf: 7.6 ft at 11.4 s from the NW at 306°. SW winds. Rising tide.

Drug myself out of bed this morning hoping to make up for Tuesday’s disastrous surf while still full expecting frustration and slop as the result. Thankfully the usual spot was serving up somewhat unusual breaks in the closeout party.

With the exception of Tuesday, it’s been really nice to have my longboard out lately. It was nice to get into waves early, cruise past lumps and warbles, and have the weight to plow through incoming waves.

Sunshine, a rainbow, some birds. All kinds of good stuff this morning.

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Tuesday, March 25th, 2014

Not Summer



Surf: 3.9 ft at 16.0 s from the W at 281°. High tide.

The usual spot was looking pretty flat on the high tide (and pink, thanks to the sunrise), so we continued on. Sadly the spot I was hoping to hit was not yet in summer form.

I’m not sure why I paddled out. I think I wanted so badly to make it work or to think I could make it work. The waves were shifty, fast, and raw. I paddled out. I looked around. I got clobbered by a set and went right back in.

It wasn’t even a bad clobbering. I wasn’t down long, I didn’t get drug, I didn’t hit the bottom. But for whatever reason, I freaked out. No excuses. It was frustrating. Even on the beach I was still huffing and puffing watching Chris go for waves and really wasn’t feeling better to he was back on shore. Sigh. I really thought I’d been doing better managing surf-related fear, but I’m not sure it’s working.

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Sunday, March 23rd, 2014




Surf: 5.9 ft at 16.0 s from the WNW at 295°

Did another beach day with all the kiddos. There was plenty of playing in the dunes and collecting beach junk. I need to remember to bring a trash bag. There was so much junk already on the beach and I can only carry so much back to the car. I’d love to really round up all the stray beer bottles and other crap.

I brought Blam’s handplane to see if I couldn’t make something out of the junky surf. It was pretty dang fun. I got a couple solid rides in before handing the plane off to the guys to try. Chris got one wave so long it took me a good 10 minutes to find him again. I almost go into a pretty good sized wave, but needed just a few more kicks.

Headed to dim sum after.

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