Author Archive

Monday, March 23rd, 2015

Off Week


Surf: 6.9 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 288°. Incoming.

Last week was an off week (really not loving this on/off schedule) so I was itching to get out this week. Unfortunately the spring winds were up and the waves were closed out. My blue board is dinged so I took my hull out and was just not really getting in to waves. I got a couple short fast ones. Chris was cruising no problem. I mostly spent my time duck diving. One positive note for the day, there were a few larger closeouts out there. I had a moment where I was scrambling to get out and over but didn’t make it in time. I didn’t freak out, but instead got a good breath and held on. Whew.

Hoping next week will break the on/off pattern.

No Comments » - Posted in surfing by

Friday, March 6th, 2015

End of the week


Surf: 3.6 ft at 14.8 s from the WSW at 257°

In keeping with an on-week, one more day of surf! Today was a little more closed out and definitely more crowded, but workable. Chatted up some folks, soaked up some sun, got in a step move. Can’t beat this March weather. The wind was blowing so hard G had to pull and extra special move to jam the nose down and zip off on a wave. Fun stuff. Seems a little late for a south swell, but as long as some of my favorite corners see a little bit of wrap (or cross swell) and favorable winds, I’m happy.

No Comments » - Posted in surfing by

Thursday, March 5th, 2015

Small, Clean Cross Step



Surf: 3.6 ft at 16.0 s from the WSW at 241°. Incoming. Offshore.

Yay! I’ve been promising Esther “Small clean waves” for a while only to have meh bleh waves show up. This morning had the right amount of everything. Little waves, offshore winds, hardly anyone out. Couldn’t ask for more!

It was great to catch up with folks and catch lots of little waves. I even managed to get a cross step up with a cross step back. Back has been a really tricky move for me. I can step up, then I shuffle back. This time, I pulled it off. Smooth little waves are pretty much perfect for that kind of thing. :)

No Comments » - Posted in surfing by

Wednesday, March 4th, 2015




Surf: 5.9 ft at 8.3 s from the NW at 319°. Incoming.

I’ve been trying to get back in to a good surf rhythm again. So far it’s been 1 week on, 1 week off. I’m not thrilled to have an off week, but the on weeks sure are fun.

The waves were a little sloppy in the morning, but were rideable and eventually cleaned up. My blue board really can make the most out of anything so I found a few corners that shaped up into waves. Sadly I dinged the poor board so it’ll be wrapped up in tape till I can get some tint to do the repairs.

No Comments » - Posted in surfing by

Wednesday, February 18th, 2015

A little bit better



Surf: 3.6 ft at 16.0 from the WSW at 238°, less tide but still very high.

Today was a little bit better. Waves were still on the sloppy side, but there was more size and a little bit of shape here and there. It took plenty of patience, paddling, and watching, but really, wasn’t so bad. I swooshed my log around some sections and got a little bit of shuffling in. Last week was too busy to get in any surf time, so I’m grateful for even these less than stellar waves.

Chris has a new flothru fin from Surfapig. He needs more time and better waves to give it a proper test, but so far so good! It looks super cool, too. I can’t wait to try it out.

Comments Off - Posted in surfing by

Tuesday, February 17th, 2015



Surf: 2.3 ft at 13.8 s from the SW at 229°. High tide.

The tide was a little too high this morning for the lack of swell. Most places were seeing shin high shorebreak, if that. After a little driving around, we settled on somewhere with a bit of a wave shaped blob and lots of wind. Upside, very few people out. There were a few waves that worked here and there. I blew what was probably the wave of the day, but managed to squeeze lemonade out of a few other barely-wave waves.

Comments Off - Posted in surfing by

Thursday, February 5th, 2015

South Winds


Surf: 7.6 ft at 12.1 s from the W at 268°

Yay! The south winds are up which means that rain is on the way. I got going a little too early this morning and spent a a good 15 minutes standing around in the dark trying to make out if there were even waves out there. It was much smaller that yesterday and plenty closed but fun enough with the right gust of wind to keep things going. No rain yet today, but it should be coming sometime soon!

Comments Off - Posted in surfing by

Wednesday, February 4th, 2015




Surf: 5.3 ft at 11.4 s from the WNW at 293°

Nice to come back to cold waters when there’s such a beautiful sunrise. As is my tradition, my first day back from nice waves means weird, sloshy waves. Thankfully it was still surf-able and I got to say hello to lots of folks. Wound up making a couple waves work under a very pink morning sky.

Comments Off - Posted in surfing by

Tuesday, January 27th, 2015

Waikiki Tuesday


Surf: 2.3 ft at 11.8 s from the W at 275°

I snuck out for a little more surf. Since I’m walking down there and it’s too far for a surf check first, I wasn’t entirely sure what was in store. I figured it was totally flat, I’d at least get a nice paddle around the bay and check out the spots.

Thankfully there were some fun little thigh high cruisers out there. I started at Canoes because it was a bit more frequent and shaped oh so nice for working on my steps. After a few waves, I paddled back to Queens for less crowded waves and a bit more oomfh. Sadly I didn’t have time to try a few of the other spots. I had to take a conference call. I listened in the park for a bit, then hung out by the pool to listen a little longer. Pretended to noseride on the edge of the pool.


Massages, malasadas, and lunch after.

Comments Off - Posted in surfing by

Sunday, January 25th, 2015

Waikiki Sunday


Surf: 7.9 ft at 14.3 s from the NW at 313°

Yay! Hawaii! I’m out here for a friends birthday and, while she isn’t a big ocean fan, I’m still trying to sneak in a bit of surf. Today I caught some waves while waiting for her flight to get in.

Many thanks to Blam, for lending me both his house and his surfboard.

There were some smooth, mellow, small waves thanks to big swell wrapping around from the NW. I got plenty of cruising time in and even a little cross stepping.

After surf (and after wolfing down a plate lunch,) I swam a few laps at Kaimana. I didn’t get out too far, there were lots of surfers and outriggers out, but I did get to see a sea turtle and so many many fish. What a nice little morning!

Wound up late to pick up my friend, but snuck in a little bit of time to pick up a lei.

Screen Shot 2015-01-26 at 6.32.51 PM

Comments Off - Posted in surfing by