Author Archive


Tuesday, January 12th, 2016

From the beach

2016-LM-01-12

Surf: 9.2 ft at 14.8 s from the W at 277°

Woke up feeling lousy. I hoped I’d be back to normal by the time I hit the beach. Sadly, I was not that lucky. I sat in the car and watched from the beach while Chris surfed. He got some really great ones. He was waaay waaay waaaaay up on the nose. A few of those waves almost got me to suit up. The whole “will surfing make me feel worse, or help me feel better?” question has been a really difficult one for me. I have the hardest time knowing when I should rest and when I should go. That’s gotten me into trouble more than a few times. Watching from the beach wasn’t SO bad. At least I made it down to the water!

 

No Comments » - Posted in thinking about surfing by

Monday, January 11th, 2016

Round 2

Surf: 5.3 ft at 19.0 s from the W at 276°

Despite waking up late, I made it out for round 2. It was a little smaller, but really fun. I was still winded on my hull, but managed to scratch into some really fun ones, especially a few rights that swooped down the line. Fun fun.

 

No Comments » - Posted in surfing by

Sunday, January 10th, 2016

Sunday stretch 

Surf: 7.6 ft at 16.0 s from the W at 278°

I was feeling a little under the weather today, but I wanted some exercise so I paddled out. I said “oh, maybe just 45 minutes or so” “I’ll go in if I start feeling worse” and all sorts of other promises. I was huffing and puffing pretty hard by the time I made it out, but I promised myself I’d just paddle around a bit and see what happens.

What happened pretty quickly was I drifted south. I wasn’t feeling like battling the current so I went with it. I got a few waves, most of them kinda crummy or quickly botched, before finally getting a decent one. I paddled in and watched Chris get a really nice one from the beach. People were totally killing it at the next peak over. It made me wish I had my log with me. Swoooosh.

No Comments » - Posted in surfing by

Friday, January 1st, 2016

New Year’s Day sunset surf 2016

2016-LM-01-01

Surf: 5.3 ft at 16.0 s from the W at 270°

Wooof. Between celebrating last night and surfing my butt of yesterday, I was tired today. I got one wave and spent the rest of the time huffing and puffing. Chris got some good ones, so I had a little vicarastoke. I figure if I’m too tired to paddle, I can always watch other folks getting good rides.

This sunset session was even COLDER than yesterday. I followed it up with some Pho, but it took hours to get warm again. I like morning sessions better. Sure it’s freezing when you suit up, but by the time you’re wrapping up, the sun is up and it’s a degree or two warming. :)

Comments Off on New Year’s Day sunset surf 2016 - Posted in surfing by

Thursday, December 31st, 2015

New Year’s Eve sunset surf 2015

2015-LM-12-31.jpg

Surf: 3.9 ft at 13.8 s from the W at 276°

Yewhew, that was a fun little surf.

I snuck out early from work and hit the beach with the hull. I’ve been out of the water for the holidays and since I don’t normally ride this little board I’m always really stoked to get waves. SUPER stoked to get GOOD waves at that. I found a nice little corner where I could grab all the waves going wide and zip down the line. There were a few really steep ones where the hull just sang. Normally I worry about this board when it gets really steep (I’ve gone off the nose, falling down the wave end over end) but it worked!

In the end my toes were numb, it was nearly pitch black out, and I was stoked.

 

Comments Off on New Year’s Eve sunset surf 2015 - Posted in surfing by

Thursday, December 17th, 2015

Smaller, but not bad.

Surf: 6.9 ft at 16.0 s from the WNW at 287°

It was a little smaller this morning, but still plenty fun. I tried another spot instead of my favorite spot. More people but I still got plenty of rides. It took a while to get into rhythm. My first wave I popped up, slipped, landed nearly face first on the board, popped up again and finished the ride out. Whew. 

Seems like I may need to buy some more cold water wax. I’ve been surfing with cool wax because my body heat is melting the cold. Unfortunately cool wax in cold weather is slippery as all get out. Looks like I can either fall on my face, or just deal with a few mushy patches wher the wax got warm.

Beautiful sunrise this morning with dramatic clouds. My last wave a guy dropped in on me. He was sure tearing it up and I would have let the wave go once he hopped on, but I really wanted one in. Thankfully we were both good sports about it and had a could laugh when we were back on land. 

Comments Off on Smaller, but not bad. - Posted in surfing by

Wednesday, December 16th, 2015

Cold toes

Surf: 5ft at 20s from the W at 271°

Fun, chilly morning out there. Chris, Debbie, and I had my favorite little corner all to ourselves. It was very fortunate becasue I’d taken the Hull out and it’s much easier for me to pick off the inside waves when it’s only me on the inside. I shared a few waves with Chris, but mostly wiggled my way up and down a few faces. Sure was chilly! With the handful of winter storms we’ve had so far, the beach is mostly rocks and it was quite the challenge to scramble across them with my cold toes. Still, pretty fun morning. 😀

Comments Off on Cold toes - Posted in surfing by

Thursday, December 3rd, 2015

Wind

2015-LM-12-03a

2015-LM-12-03b

Surf: 6.6 ft at 17.4 s from the W at 274°. Windy.

It’s been a while since I’ve done the “before the storm, howling south winds” surf. Ooooh hooo hooo, my face is stinging. We took our friend Seth out with us since the surf was small. He managed to get a wave, even with the offshores so fierce I got blown right back out of a few waves.

With the exception of my board scraping across the parking lot when I tried to suit up (I even waited till the last possible minute to get it out of the bag just in case and it still got scraped!) it was a fun little morning. A little less tide and it’d have been perfect. With all these winter storms on the way, there should be plenty of chances to get the right howling winds with the right tide.

Comments Off on Wind - Posted in surfing by

Wednesday, December 2nd, 2015

Rainbow

2015-LM-12-02a

2015-LM-12-02b

Surf: 4.6 ft at 13.8 s from the WNW at 300°

Rainbow! 😀 😀 😀

Seriously, what a great way to start the morning.

Surfwise, the morning was pretty fun. I had very low expectations. Chris went out the day before and said it was big, cold, and miserable. He broke a leash plug in that slow. I was pretty releaves to see mushy, but pretty peak-like waves. It was a little challenging to catch the waves with the tide kind of high, but otherwise fun.

Comments Off on Rainbow - Posted in surfing by

Sunday, November 29th, 2015

Incoming Swell

2015-LM-11-29a

2015-LM-11-29b

Surf: 5.6 ft at 21.1 s from the WNW at 283°. Outgoing tide.

I got up this morning, looked at the cams and buoys and thought: “maybe it’s still small and friendly. Maybe that big giant swell isn’t here just yet.”

By the time I got my act together and got down there, all the small and friendly waves were gone and the big new swell was moving in. With the hide tide it was whomping close to shore, but all around not completely unrideable. I got a few waves in, even with my sore shoulder.

Really nice to see everyone’s weekend photos from Ocean Beach. Wow, was that pretty. Way outta my leauge, but so pretty.

Comments Off on Incoming Swell - Posted in surfing by