Tuesday, August 26th, 2014
Surf: 5.9 ft at 12.9 s from 170°. Low, incoming tide.
While it’s both a little too early for the Marie swell and Santa Cruz doesn’t pick up much of the super steep south, there were still some fun, clean, tasty waves this morning.
I got some real nice, long, fun-sized waves and worked on cheating my way up to the nose. While I’m not sure how successful I was, I got some really good practice working my way around sections while way up in the front. Whee.
Really nice morning.
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Saturday, August 16th, 2014
Surf: 3.3 ft at 14.8 s from the WNW at 291°
It’s my birthday Yeeww
With a tent filled with snacks on the beach, I spent hours and hours surfing, bodysurfing, snacking, and pushing Meghan into waves. It was sunny, water was warm, surf was decent enough. So much fun. Meghan got three pretty good waves! She was starting to get on the face (with a little push from Chris in the right direction.)
I got some great bodysurf rides. Probably one of the best I’ve gotten without a hand plane. Most of the board rides and bodysurf rides were almost right into the sand. Pretty punchy for little waves!
Following day (after much sleeping in) I did some kayaking on San Pablo reservoir. So swimming here (aww) but so pretty! And perfect weather. Just enough breeze to keep cool. Plenty of sun. Super nice day. Had a picnic on a rock!
Lovely lovely weekend. Birthday stoked!
Tuesday, August 12th, 2014
Surf: 4.3 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 276°
Fun little waves this morning. Plenty of people but still plenty of space to share a wave. I worked on a few steps, even sharing a wave with Chris while trying to sneak up the nose a little. Sure, it was small, but there were a few that were worth getting up and driving down for
Big highlight of my morning was surfing and paddling a ton without totally wrenching my neck and shoulder. I’ve been doing physical therapy trying to get all these aches and pains under control. I was bummed to hear “stop surfing until your shoulder is better”(as well as “stop drawing”!) Naturally, have not stopped doing either of those things (with plenty of wondering “Gee, why isn’t it better?”) I’ve been doing my workouts, stretching often, and I’ve been trying to focus on my posture and my paddle form. So far, so good. I am surfing less, but I feel like having some form of activity is healthier than just laying in bed expecting a magic recovery.
Just being able to make it through a session with only minor necktweak pain is a pretty big win.
Saturday, August 2nd, 2014
Surf: 2.6 ft at 7.1 s from the NW at 311°
Yup, windy and terrible as forecasted but not totally awful. I’m dogsitting and snagged DSaka’s wavestorm for kicks. It was actually pretty fun, even with the sloppy messy waves. Weeeheeehooo. Also very nice to walk down to the beach, surf, walk back, and hot in the shower easy peasy.
Saturday, July 26th, 2014
Surf: 5.3 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 319°. Windy. Outgoing tide.
It’s been so warm we took advantage of the weather for a beach day. The surf was pretty terrible and my shoulder was acting up again so I traded the board for fins. While I mostly just got drug around by the current, there were some fun little corners and lots and lots of By-the-wind Sailors coming ashore.
After an ice-cream pit stop at Polly Ann’s, I stopped by the north end of the beach to say hi to some friends.
Thursday, July 24th, 2014
Surf: 3.9 ft at 7.1 s from the WNW at 290° and building.
It’s been a pretty lousy week. I’ve been running around for work that has been less than rewarding. So, with nothing on the schedule for Thursday, I jetted off to see if I could find some surf. It started out flat and grey, but kinda workable, but by the end, there were waves and there was plenty of sun. I got sunburnt for sure. Oww. Overall, not bad. Worked on some quick turns.
Water is SO warm. They’re saying it’s a record high maybe 65°, hasn’t been this warm since the 80’s. I was roasting. Beautiful weather.
Tuesday, July 15th, 2014
Surf: 4.9 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 312°, low tide.
I’ve been out of practice getting up and getting moving in the morning. The guys were headed to Santa Cruz for a pre-meeting surf and I rolled on to the usual spots. The tide was so low there was barely any water to surf and hardly any waves to chase down. Thankfully all I need is a little bit of room to work on my one step. Step, splash, step, splash. Now if I can just make getting up a habit again, I should be all set.
Wednesday, July 9th, 2014
Surf: 5.9 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 310°. Low tide.
A little unexpected to be back so soon. The guys had another meeting. Smaller today and I wow was my neck hurting, but still rideable and still kinda fun. I had a little moment of surf etiquette to debate. My friend lives down in SC and was leaving the state soon for grad school. I’d told him we were surfing yesterday, but wasn’t sure if it was appropriate to call him at 4am, when I found out we were headed back, or even 6 am when we were suiting up. Around 7:30 I saw him giving me the “huh?” shrug from the cliffs. Thankfully he wasn’t mad I didn’t give him the heads up. We got a few waves and all was well. After that: breakfast!
Tuesday, July 8th, 2014
Surf: 6.2 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 303°
After a solid breakfast an a tour of my friend’s place in Santa Cruz, I headed back out for a few waves more. Sunnier and a little more crowded, but still fun. Since I got so many waves in the morning I opted to work on my steps. I managed to do a full step over step over step cross step all the way to about 5 inches or so from the nose. YESSSSS. Once I get a little more confidence, maybe I can cheat a five or something. Rounded off the wave walking back for a little move, too. Starting to get somewhere! I just need more surf days and more smooth waves
Tuesday, July 8th, 2014
Surf: 5.9 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 298°
Taking my new board out in Santa Cruz has been high on my list of summer goals. Today was a good morning for it. Small, clean, super chill. That board is so buttery! It swoops. I got in a few steps, too. Loving the new style. I’m going to have to work pretty hard to catch up with what the board can do, but I’m looking forward to trying.