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Sunday, May 31st, 2015

Sunny swim


Surf: 2.6 ft at 16.0 s from the WSW at 241°

My back was still really sore this morning, even after spending all day Saturday in bed. The waves were super small so I decided a little exercise might be in order. I headed out for a swim.

The upside was that swimming didn’t make it hurt any worse, but it didn’t improve the situation any either. Ahh well. Fresh air.

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Friday, May 29th, 2015

Still Grey


Surf: 3.3 ft at 14.8 s from the SSW at 199°. NW winds at 17kn. Rising tide.

Woke up feeling like this low back pain was just a blip on the radar. Unfortunately when I pulled up to the beach, it was right back to being a mess. Doing what I always do, I said “well, I’m already down here, I’ll just suit up.”

Paddling around wasn’t too bad. I brought my 9’4 and had a much easier time getting in to waves, but with my back hurting, I wasn’t feeling great about the drops or the steep inside section. It was better than being skunked again, but I don’t think I did myself any favors. Hoping all this heals up before my San O trip! :S

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Thursday, May 28th, 2015



Surf: 3.9 ft at 17.4 s from the SW at 214°. High tide. NW winds 20kn.

Was hoping for more waves like yesterday, but the wind was up and all the usual spots were junked up.

Further south there was a beautiful peak with a crowd on it, but otherwise clean. I didn’t get a single wave, but had a great time watching everyone else take off.

Big downside: after driving back up to the city, I got out of my car and my back was really sore. It seemed pretty out of the blue. Ugh. I so don’t need another chronic thing keeping me out of the water. Hope this eases up soon.

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Wednesday, May 27th, 2015



Surf: 4.6 ft at 16.0 s from the WSE at 238°. NW Winds 4kn.

These kinds of mornings always make me hopeful that summer is here. Clean, mellow, not too cold. I got several fun little waves right from the get go, then struggled as the crowd filled in. I always feel in the way on my hull. Still, it was plenty fun. Hoping we get more days like this, soon. :)

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Monday, May 25th, 2015

Memorial Day



Surf: 4.9 ft at 11.4 s from the NW at 309°. W winds at 7kn.

Totally different today than it was yesterday. The waves were cleaner, the beach was more organized. It was also more crowded, but a few friendly folks out in the water, too. A mix of whomping closeouts and long waves with lots of cutbacks. Followed it up with dinner at Puerto. Pretty tasty and a lovely view of the beach.

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Sunday, May 24th, 2015

Mermaid swim day


Surf: 5.3 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 311°. NW winds at 14kn.

I was hoping to get some outdoor time in this weekend. It’s been the coldest May on record so the beach wasn’t too crowded. The waves were on the meh side so Meghan, Chris, and the girls, and I went for an icy swim. Brrr.

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Thursday, May 21st, 2015

Early Shift


Surf: 3.3 ft at 13.8 s from the W at 280°. Low tide. NW winds at 6kn.

Got up super early to take a friend to the airpot. Upside, we were one of the first ones out and we got to work at a civil hour. Downside was that the surf really didn’t really get fun until just before we were leaving. Ahh well, got some exercise and some drop and wash closeouts.

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Friday, May 15th, 2015



Surf: 4.9 ft at 11.4 s from the WNW at 299°

Hopefully it rained in the mountains because the city stayed dry and sunny most of the day. The wind picked up a bit, but I thought perhaps the surf would still be worth checking. The waves were bumpier for sure, but I’m glad I went. I’d shaken off some of the dust from my 6’10 skills and got a few more waves than yesterday. Saw lots of folks and got a little more exercise. Not bad!

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Thursday, May 14th, 2015

Better wind


Surf: 3.6 ft at 13.8 s from the WNW at 282°

Now that we are deep into this drought, the chance that it might rain is pretty exciting in and of itself. The chance for better winds ahead of the storm (rather than howling NW winds) had me very hopeful for a couple surfy mornings.

I took out my 6’10 (9’5 is in the shop) so I was struggling a little, but still plenty fun to get a few and watch everyone else cruising by.

Fingers crossed for rain.

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Wednesday, May 6th, 2015



Surf: 9.5 ft at 10.8 s from the NW at 317°. Low tide.

There’s a moment after convincing a friend to get up super early and drive to Santa Cruz when I think “shoot, I hope the surf isn’t total crap.” I pretty much worry about this the whole ride down. Thankfully, there was still a bit of the swell from earlier in the week, the weather was warm, and the waves were nice and long.

I haven’t surfed the west side in a long time. Aside from the usual Cowells crowd, it was just lovely. Long cruisey waves, waves with a little bit of size, and waves with a little bit of pep (sometimes all at the same time even.) I got a little bit of stepping in, a lot of sneaking around sections, but mostly a lot of exercise paddling around and around. I’m so out of shape. Must surf more to get ready for June’s surf camp trip.

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