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Saturday, October 11th, 2014

Terrible at Teaching



Surf: 4.9 ft at 14.8 s from the WSW at 258°. Incoming tide.

While I’m always supportive of anyone trying to learn to surf, I’m not the best surf teacher. My advice ranges from “paddle! keep paddling!” to “you ok? want to rest?” and not terribly much in between.

I took a few friends up to Bo. They’d both had lessons before and we’re interested in trying someplace with gentler waves. While happy not to be bashed by wave after wave, they weren’t super thrilled with the current into the lagoon. Now, this current has been a problem in past lessons, but never THIS much of a problem. There’s hardly any sand left on the lagoon side so the current was really whipping. One friend made it to shore relatively quickly but the other wasn’t making as much progress. In between yelling “paddle! keep paddling! paddle and then you can rest!” I also swam out to help get her back in.

After leaving them on the beach to test a slightly different spot (where I got a really fun wave on the rental cheese puff soft top) I decided maybe the patch would be better.

One friend was beat from the walk and the fight, but my other friend was able to get out and get some waves. With the exception of the shore break, things were pretty gentle. I’m not as comfortable swimming on this side, so I used the other board and yelled “paddle! more paddling!” behind her.

Next time I need a slightly better plan. Maybe we’ll go down to Cowells.

Post surf we went on a bit of a north bay adventure. Lunch at Lagunitas brewing and then a quick stop in the countryside. All around nice day.

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Sunday, October 5th, 2014

Foggy Beach Day


Surf: 3.9 ft at 16.0 s from the S at 186°

It’s boiling hot in the city, so naturally it’s completely fogged over at the beach. I like the fog, but from the looks of the crowd down there, everyone was hoping for a sunny beach day.

I bodysurfed for a little while before eventually grabbing my board. I did get a couple long, fun waves that made it worth the traffic. Lots of swinging the board around to sneak just a little bit more out of every wave. Had a few right into the sand.

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Friday, October 3rd, 2014

Split peak morning



Surf: 3.6 ft at 19.0 s from the SW at 299°

Yeeehooo, that was a fun little morning. Yeah, waves were a little lumpy with the backwash, but still plenty fun. Chris and I paddled out and immediately split a peak. Yay for shared waves. Sadly did not get a ton of stepping in, but did get in some zipping and swooshing. Plenty of folks in the water were getting fun waves. This is definitely the kind of morning I’ve been missing.

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Thursday, October 2nd, 2014

Bodysurf party wave



Surf: 5.3 ft at 10.0 s from the NW at 307°

Ahh colorful fall mornings and closeouts. Warm winds were blowing which I think was the only thing holding up these waves. Could still sneak in a little bit of a ride. I went for some smaller ones to work on wedging my rail into the face and working out a step. It was fun, but eventually me neck started hurting again so I swapped out my board for fins.

Since I’m trying to be ginger when it comes to my upper body, I had to pull out of a few whompers just before they whomped. These steep waves held up by the wind were otherwise perfect for bodysurfing. I even managed to get a party wave with J-bird. I hadn’t thought about what it was going to be like sharing a wave with someone on a board and, well, it’s kinda scary! I pulled out and let her rock the rest of the wave solo. Hoping to get her into a pair of fins so we can bodysurf party-wave sometime soon. :)

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Saturday, September 20th, 2014




Surf: 3.3 ft at 13.8 s from the WSW at 239°. South winds. Outgoing tide.

Back out there. Did some bodysurfing and swimming, but also tested this board out.

It’s shaped by Stan Fujii out of Ventura. Turns out, my friend David worked for Stan back in the day at the Ventura Surf Shop. This board is HEAVY. Wow. Tapered t-band stringer. Tail block. Beast and a half to turn, but super stable once it’s going. I walked waaaaay up before I ran out of ocean.

The weight is not the best thing for my shoulders. Happy to let it’s owner handle it from here on out.

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Thursday, September 18th, 2014



Surf: 6.9 ft at 10.0 s from the W at 265°. Incoming tide. Light S winds.

Day two of getting up and getting out. It was raining when I left the house. How great is THAT? I’ve been waiting for these south wind mornings and we could really use a wet winter to ease this drought. (Note, I may not feel the same way after my third sinus infection from dirty water.)

Got down south and the waves looked fun. I decided to skip the bodysurfing and go straight for the board. Wheee. Sure, it was kinda closed out, but lots of friends I hadn’t seen in ages were out and there were a few makeable waves.

The big highlight: making it through a whole session without the sharp pain I’ve been having in my neck. Sure, I’m sore in all the usual spots, but it’s a big step up from the kind of pain I’m normally in these last few months.

I think that’s a win.

I’ve been adding a sticker to this thing every time I’ve had a really great session, pulled off a surf move, or something else pretty rad. So far, not a ton of stickers, but today I added one for cooperative shoulders. Not bad.

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Wednesday, September 17th, 2014



2014-JT-09-17b Photo by sarahvgrives on instagram

Surf: 2.6 ft at 21.1 s from the SW at 214°. Incoming tide. Calm winds.

I know I’ve said this a few times, but I’m trying to get back out there, slowly but surely. Today’s plan was to go walk on the beach if I was too sore to surf (or there was no surf.) After checking a few spots, I was in the tricky situation of: 1- that wave looks really fun 2- it’s the only thing breaking and 3- it’s also a little too big/steep/closed out/excuse for what I was hoping for for an easy morning out. It was also too crowded to bodysurf safely.

I paddled out with a plan of mostly watching and picking up the little mushy waves. Saw Greacen get lots of really fun long waves. There were some grom kids shredding till mom yelled at them to come in for school. Seals swimming around. I did catch a few softer ones. It was tricky with everyone trying to go for every way, but I got one or two solo waves that made the paddle out worth it.

Also have enough sand in my ears for the rest of the year. Uff.

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Saturday, September 13th, 2014

LZ Surf Team


Surf: 2.3 ft at 10.0 s from the WNW at 290°. Windy.

Brief LZ surf team outing in total slop waves was actually pretty fun. Nice sunset, nice views of the headlands, a little bit of bodysurfing, and silly sloppy waves.

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Sunday, September 7th, 2014

Beach day



Surf: 3.0 ft at 16.0 s from the SSW at 197°

Sunny, warm, with tiny waves, perfect for a beach day with lots of groms. After a thorough check of semi-grom friendly spots, we set up camp on the beach. Groms on boogie boards, groms on soft ops, groms on beat up surfboards. Lots of folks getting waves and having fun.

I surfed for a little bit, bodysurfed for a little, and attempted to boogie board before my shoulder said “nope, no boogie boarding. This is where we draw the line.” At that point I had snacks on the beach.

Groms got all kinds of waves. :)

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Monday, September 1st, 2014

Labor Day + Franklin Point






Surf: 5.6 ft at 8.3 s from the NW at 306°

Last minute weekend getaway on the coast!

Meghan had some extra space on her tent-cabin camping trip so I tagged along. It’s a great spot, plenty of hiking including a nice hike out to the dunes and cliffs Franklin Point. What a view! As the sun started to go down, there were hundreds of searbirds diving just offshore. Pelicans, gulls, cormorants, all kinds of birds. Total amazing mayhem.

The next day we walked to other direction to check out some tidepools.

Ant the way back we met up with some friends in Pacifica to cool off (so hot this weekend!) The rips were very strong and the shorebreak really stomping so bodysurfing was kept to a minimum. Still nice to get wet (carefully.)

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