Wednesday, October 26th, 2011
Fog Bow
Surf: Chest- Shoulder high. Little textured with some whompin closeouts.
I got there late and stood in the fog watching closeout after closeout. There were big booms from somewhere I couldn’t see and a hugh pack huddled up in the place I could see. Slowly the fog lifted and around the time the morning shift was packing it up, a Fog Bow appeared. What was closeoutcity fogfest became sunny prettyworkableville. There was some size out there for sure, things swung wildly between waist high and just above shoulder high. There were still plenty of closeouts but also a good bit of fun. I have lots of sand in my ears, but overall happy with the morning.
No Comments » - Posted in surfing by Tracey
Monday, October 24th, 2011
Spray
Surf: Waist-Shoulder high. Little closed out. Slightly offshore/sideshore.
Beautiful morning. Dramatic fog, sunshine, all that. Lots and lots of seabirds flying about.
The surf was a bit closed out in the morning, but for every two or three drop and wash monster there was something with a bit of a face. It looked like the later shift got the best of the morning. I watched lots of noserides and swooping turns as I suited up.
There’s some potential out there for some beautiful fall mornings headed our way. Trying not to get my hopes too high but it would be nice to see things clean up! 
No Comments » - Posted in surfing by Tracey
Friday, October 21st, 2011
Orange Soup
Surf: Waistish, junky, warbly and orange.
My first thought was UGH. Junky, onshore winds, red tide.
My second thought was “I’ve surfed worse.”
After paddling out I thought UGH again.
A few warbly waves in, it seemed not so bad. Took a lot of work to keep in trim and it certainly wasn’t pretty, but it was possible to link everything up and get some long rides out of the not so exciting looking soup.
Closing thought: “Well that wasn’t AWFUL”
No Comments » - Posted in surfing by Tracey
Tuesday, October 18th, 2011
Welcome Back
Surf: Waist-Shoulder and fairly closed out.
Yay! After a month+ out of the water. Chris is back. What a day to come back for tho. Ooof.
I’d forgotten what it was like to squeeze lemonade out of stone cold closeouts. Hooooo ouch. There were makeable open face rides hidden away in the wash, but it was still a lot of thumping, grumping, and fog. Everything from Shoulder High closeout to Waist High mushjunker. As I left, it looked like more tide was helping with the close-out problem, but swamping things entirely.
No Comments » - Posted in surfing by Tracey
Wednesday, October 12th, 2011
Full moon swell
Surf: Waist high, a few standouts. Little junky.
What a moon this morning! Plenty beautiful sky, but the surf was not terrible clean. Waves were rideable and all around not bad. Hopefully things will clean up with some of the new fall swells.
No Comments » - Posted in surfing by Tracey
Thursday, September 22nd, 2011
No Wax
Surf: Thigh to Waist high. Clean. Slow.
My 7’0 is in the shop, and my 9’4 had a ding I’ve been meaning to repair. With new swell supposedly on it’s way, I grabbed my 9’0 and headed down to the beach.
As I unzipped my bag, I had the sinking realization that before I’d sent the 9′ to Alex for a bunch of work I had stripped all the wax. Stripped all the wax and not put any back on.
Crap.
I found myself standing in the lot with a very smooth and shiny board gleaming back at me. There was no way I was going to turn around and head home. I dug half a bar of wax out of my bag and spread that little lump of wax as thin as I could trying to cover the board.
I wore the wax down to a tiny tiny nub, but it worked.
The first half of the session the tide was too high and things were slow and plodding. The second half, things picked up. Kinda fun to see what I’ve started to learn on the quad translating to a try fin. I managed a few tighter cutbacks digging in.
Not an epic day for sure, but happy to have made it work.
No Comments » - Posted in surfing by Tracey
Tuesday, September 20th, 2011
The start of Fall
Surf: Thigh High, clean.
Fall is here. Warm temps, lower winds, lovely mornings.
Plenty crowded out there though. Wow. 2 waves in and my board was dinged crashing into a dude dropping in. Thankfully no one was hurt, but I wasn’t ready to get out of the water just yet.
After a few too many close calls, I headed up north to throw myself into some closeouts. I got a few waves that made me feel slightly more competent on the 7′ (which I badly needed after the earlier tangle up.)
Nice to have the warm weather.
No Comments » - Posted in surfing by Tracey
Wednesday, September 7th, 2011
Backwards Waves
Surf: Waist-Shoulder high. Backwards. Closed out.
Ahh, physics. Physics does not always do what you think it will, or what you want it to, or even really what it should. Today it was reflecting waves pretty strongly off the beach, jacking up waves into steep closeouts left and right.
Every time I get a little air on a longboard it tends to be accompanied by a considerable amount of surprise. Usually me getting air on a 9’4 means something weird is going on.
Today’s surprising air move was brought to you by me catching an outgoing wave while paddling out, ramping the incoming closeout at pretty good speed, and launching myself back into the lineup. If you wanted exciting, ungraceful chest high waves, they were out there.
No Comments » - Posted in surfing by Tracey
Friday, September 2nd, 2011
Pre-Labor Day Crowd
Surf: Waist-Shoulder high. Little crowded. Long lulls.
Got a couple chest high waves that left me stoked (especially the one I had all to myself, crowded out there today). Wandered to a less crowded peak for some shoulder high drop and wash. Mostly wash. It was sunny and decent enough. I’m happy. Def “fair”
No Comments » - Posted in surfing by Tracey
Wednesday, August 31st, 2011
Cross Stepping
Photo by Chris
Surf: Waist-Chest High.
Patient logging this am in the patient logging spots with some cruising long rides. Practiced some cross stepping to the tune of Faceplant Sonata. Hope the late morning shift had fun.