Friday, March 5th, 2010

Sunset to Snow

Surf: 2-4ft, clean, inconsistent. Dark.
After Tuesdays bigger wave morning, I was pretty excited to hear the swell was dying down. At high tide the waves were mushy. It was an easy paddle with lots of sprinting for mushy waves. I wound up doing a fair amount of kooky riding, trying to make bottom turns standing [...]

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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2010

Paddle Out in the Storm

Surf: 4-10ft, 20s period. Raining, Windy.
Gear: RipCurl G-Bomb and 7′4 roundtail.
We’ve had storm after storm the last few months. I’ve watched the buoys spike, heard the rain pounding away at my windows, and grumbled about how it was soo big and too rough to go out. I had a new wetsuit and a new board [...]

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Monday, February 1st, 2010

Mellow Morning at Lindy

Surf: Knee to Waist High. Clean, but inconsistent.
Lovely morning. The moon was setting over the ocean, lighting up the water like a big ole painting. I watched the little waves for a while waiting for Chuck arrive. We paddled out to small waves, great for a longboard but a little trickier for Chuck on [...]

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Saturday, January 16th, 2010

Catching closeouts before the rain

SURF: 3-4ft, inconsistent and mostly closed out.
Luke, Emily and I hit Linda Mar in an attempt to get a little surfing in before the HUGE winter storm on it’s way to the west coast. The rain hovered just offshore, occasionally lightly drizzling. Surf was meh. Most rides involved outrunning the closeout so none of the [...]

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Friday, January 1st, 2010

Dawn Patrol on New Year’s Day

SURF: Inconsistent, but decent waves. Waist high and mushy at the center of the beach, shoulder+ and steep at the north end. Increased frequency and closeouts as the day went on.
Mmm, 6am on New Years Day. Driving out I got to watch what was left of the Blue Moon through the trees in Golden [...]

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Thursday, December 31st, 2009

Rounding Out the Year Stoked!

SURF: Inconsistent sets ranging from Thigh high to Head High. Warm sun, clean.
What a great way to round out the year. This pretty unassuming day turned out to be so much fun.
We hit the beach at high tide and the waves were a little mushy. I was just happy to be in the water. [...]

1 Comment » - Posted in surfing by Tracey

Tuesday, December 15th, 2009

Waiting for the Sunrise

Surf: Flat. Occasionaly 2ft waves.
I tried to sneak in a Dawn Patrol before the new swell hits. 6:45 I was standing on the beach in almost complete darkness trying to make out the shape of a wave on the horizon.
There were none.
It was flat.
I waited for Luke thinking he’d want to try further [...]

2 Comments » - Posted in surfing by Tracey

Tuesday, December 8th, 2009

Chilly mornings

SURF: 3-5ft, choppy, sloppy and cold.
I went out for a little paddle practice on the 7′. I’d stripped the wax off my longboard on friday assuming my job would start Monday. It’s probably for the best, Linda Mar was a mess. I could have made it into the line up with my longboard but the [...]

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Wednesday, December 2nd, 2009

Day 6 in the Marathon

SURF: 2-3 ft.+ knee to chest high and fair conditions.
This morning’s dawn patrol: Peaky, clean, soft lines, with some occasional workable little corners on tap.
After 5 days on the water I was pretty relieved to get a small wave report at Linda Mar. Just after paddling out I caught wave after wave. All nice, [...]

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Tuesday, December 1st, 2009

Swamped

SURF: 3-4 ft. + waist to shoulder high with occasional 5 ft and fair to good conditions.
This morning’s dawn patrol: Mostly walled-up, glassy lines continue this morning, with some occasional lined-up, makeable corners through the inside.
A +7 high tide and freak big weekday crowd made Linda Mar a bit of a challenge today. Even [...]

No Comments » - Posted in surfing by Tracey