Surf: 2-4ft, Mellow and Crumbly. Sunny.
Board: 5’10 Retro Fish.

With summer on it’s way, I’ve been eying a few smaller wave shortboards on craigslist. The shortest board I’ve been able to stand up on was something like a 6’3 or a 6’4 so I figured I’d try one of Josh’s little fish and see how it goes.

I spent most of the day practicing my duck dive. I’ve been working on this for a while, usually flailing around on boards that are WAY too thick for someone my size.

Shove, kick, dive, surface. Seems pretty easy, but with the thick boards I’ve been using I just haven’t been able to do it.

With Josh’s help, I practiced keeping the board stable under water, practiced kicking, and FINALLY got on some clean duck dives. I was really starting to get frustrated not being able to do it.

I also pulled off a spectacular arial display. I dove under the wave, the wave pulled the board out of my hands and then SHOT about 4 feet straight up. Josh got a kick out of it.

Mostly I stayed out of the way, went for a few waves, and floated around. I had pretty low expectations. This fish is about 4 feet shorter than my usual boards so I wasn’t expecting to shred. Getting in the clean duck dives was a pretty special bonus and the post surf BBQ was pretty extra special.

Some big waves moved in to our area Friday night. Buoys spiked to 30ft and a lot of folks were on edge wondering if the waves were going to come in clean and rideable or big and scary.

It was big and scary.

I met up with Tom in front of Wise. We walked around North Ocean Beach and the Cliff House, gawking at waves there. There were waves breaking so far out ir was unbelievable. We cruised on down to Sloat, Rockaway, and finally Linda Mar waiting for Josh to wrap up his session at Half Moon Bay.

Rockaway was, well, hurling rocks:

There was one lone dude out there. He was holding his own, I didn’t see him get stomped but wow. He was a tiny dot surrounded by big angry waves.

Linda Mar wasn’t as big as projected, but still looked rough. A handful of people were out getting waves.

I stayed nice and dry. Had lovely brunch at the Cliff House instead.