Surf: 9.8 ft at 16.0 s from the WNW at 285°. Low Tide. Winds ENE.
With the size coming back up, I’d hoped for my faviorite low tide corner to be working. I keep having that hope and I keep paddling out to chunky, weird waves. I tried several spots and all of them were that ledgy type of closeout onto almost dry sand. Yuck. I got a few exploding closeouts before catching a small wave in.
Surf: 4.9 ft at 10.8 s from the WNW at 287°. Incoming tide. Offshore.
Today was the first time in a while we’ve had a mellow, small surf day. It was nice to be able to hit up my favorite peaks on the north side and even better not to get completely wrecked doing it.
I kicked the session off with a really great wave. Chris said “all you” and man was I stoked he gave me that wave. I got way way up on the nose. I got a big oll swoosh in. So nice to be back on my longboard.
Even with all the extra foam, I was still exhausted. These long stretches without surf have me so out of shape. I had plenty of fun and my arms were noodles in no time. More surf, less colds and morning meetings, please.
Surf: 9.2 ft at 14.8 s from the W at 277°
Woke up feeling lousy. I hoped I’d be back to normal by the time I hit the beach. Sadly, I was not that lucky. I sat in the car and watched from the beach while Chris surfed. He got some really great ones. He was waaay waaay waaaaay up on the nose. A few of those waves almost got me to suit up. The whole “will surfing make me feel worse, or help me feel better?” question has been a really difficult one for me. I have the hardest time knowing when I should rest and when I should go. That’s gotten me into trouble more than a few times. Watching from the beach wasn’t SO bad. At least I made it down to the water!
Surf: 5.3 ft at 19.0 s from the W at 276°
Despite waking up late, I made it out for round 2. It was a little smaller, but really fun. I was still winded on my hull, but managed to scratch into some really fun ones, especially a few rights that swooped down the line. Fun fun.
Surf: 7.6 ft at 16.0 s from the W at 278°
I was feeling a little under the weather today, but I wanted some exercise so I paddled out. I said “oh, maybe just 45 minutes or so” “I’ll go in if I start feeling worse” and all sorts of other promises. I was huffing and puffing pretty hard by the time I made it out, but I promised myself I’d just paddle around a bit and see what happens.
What happened pretty quickly was I drifted south. I wasn’t feeling like battling the current so I went with it. I got a few waves, most of them kinda crummy or quickly botched, before finally getting a decent one. I paddled in and watched Chris get a really nice one from the beach. People were totally killing it at the next peak over. It made me wish I had my log with me. Swoooosh.
Surf: 5.3 ft at 16.0 s from the W at 270°
Wooof. Between celebrating last night and surfing my butt of yesterday, I was tired today. I got one wave and spent the rest of the time huffing and puffing. Chris got some good ones, so I had a little vicarastoke. I figure if I’m too tired to paddle, I can always watch other folks getting good rides.
This sunset session was even COLDER than yesterday. I followed it up with some Pho, but it took hours to get warm again. I like morning sessions better. Sure it’s freezing when you suit up, but by the time you’re wrapping up, the sun is up and it’s a degree or two warming. 🙂
