{"id":2334,"date":"2012-10-15T08:12:07","date_gmt":"2012-10-15T15:12:07","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.traceythompson.com\/surfing\/?p=2334"},"modified":"2012-11-28T01:50:41","modified_gmt":"2012-11-28T08:50:41","slug":"finally","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.traceythompson.com\/surfing\/2012\/10\/finally\/","title":{"rendered":"Finally!"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Surf: Chest to Head high. Clean. <\/p>\n

After yesterday’s timid approach, I wanted to spend my last morning in Mexico giving my favorite spot my all. <\/p>\n

I paddled out, I went for a wave, I almost didn’t make the wave and opted for my patented Linda Mar mush move: jump on the nose and get in a good two handed paddle to push you over the edge. It worked. <\/p>\n

Keep in mind, I had not yet actually ridden my Vaquero on a wave over waist high. And now, I’m standing on the nose on a head high wave realizing that these boards go really REALLY fast. <\/p>\n

Holycrap. <\/p>\n

I stepped back mid way through the drop and laid on the rail trying to make the bottom turn. I don’t think I’ve ever leaned so far into a wave without falling over. I made it. SWOOOOSH. <\/p>\n

Top turn SWOOOOSH.<\/p>\n

Rocks OHNO.<\/p>\n

Kickout! WHEW. <\/p>\n

I finally got a real wave! Yesssss. <\/p>\n

Alan, a regular I’ve seen on our last few trips down, yelled “Nice one, Barbie Doll!” and laughed. “Oh, you got a little board now! Yeah? You gonna get all the waves now!” Ha.<\/p>\n

I got another fun swooping wave at the main peak, then headed over to where Aaron was picking off lefts. <\/p>\n

I struggled a little bit there for a while. We didn’t have a ton of time. We had to get back, pack up, and hit the airport. <\/p>\n

After a few failed attempts to get into something, I got set up perfectly for a nice long steep wave. I got in and the board was off like a rocket. I was barely holding on. I saw Alan on the shoulder. He threw me a shaka and pretended to snap a pic. I hear Aaron on the inside cheering. So, so stoked. <\/p>\n

I headed in, happy to have finally got a few good waves in Mexico. \ud83d\ude00<\/p>\n

Additional note. If you step on like, a dozen sea urchins on your way in, def get those spines out before sitting on an airplane for several hours. All the spines I got right away: fine. The one I didn’t get around to until after I landed in SF still hurts almost two months later. <\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Surf: Chest to Head high. Clean. After yesterday’s timid approach, I wanted to spend my last morning in Mexico giving my favorite spot my all. I paddled out, I went for a wave, I almost didn’t make the wave and opted for my patented Linda Mar mush move: jump on the nose and get in … <\/p>\n

Continue reading “Finally!”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[4],"tags":[65,36,64],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/s6YKrJ-finally","jetpack-related-posts":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.traceythompson.com\/surfing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2334"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.traceythompson.com\/surfing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.traceythompson.com\/surfing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.traceythompson.com\/surfing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.traceythompson.com\/surfing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2334"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/www.traceythompson.com\/surfing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2334\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2481,"href":"https:\/\/www.traceythompson.com\/surfing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2334\/revisions\/2481"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.traceythompson.com\/surfing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2334"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.traceythompson.com\/surfing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2334"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.traceythompson.com\/surfing\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2334"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}