Day: November 27, 2011

Surf: Waist-Chest High. Still clean, but more closed out.

After surfing with Beamer and Nicole in the morning, I swing by Ocean Beach to see if I could spot Matt and Brian in the water. They were already out and grumbling about conditions and wanted to check out Linda Mar. I agreed to head back down and paddle out again.

I love my Isurus wetsuit, but MAN is it hard to get into when it’s sopping wet. This is why I need a second one 😉

After lots of tugging and pulling, I was good to go.

Still pretty smooth and clean with no wind, lots more pep and push, but more clouseouts. Waist-Chest high with some larger waves hiding in sets. I’m def still not up to 100% after being sick. Getting caught inside on the larger sets I did not want to be under water or holding my breath. Still wheezy.

Got some fun waves before the tide dropped and it all turned to junk. After that had some tasty soup out of Brian’s camper van and a nice sunset.

Stoked to be back!

Surf: Waist High, mellow, and clean.

After two weeks dry with a miserable cold, I picked up a double session today. Fair in the morning with no wind, good shoulders holding up, and long mellow waist high waves. Lots of fun on the longboard.

I attempted Beamer’s tiny asymmetrical board. Of course the big set had to come through as we were switching boards. I ducked the first wave, but the leash didn’t hold on the second and away the little board went. I swam and swam and eventually got it back, paddled it back out, and went for a wave. Didn’t get into anything, but mighty fun trying (and fun watching Beamer and Nicole try my board out.)

It was nice to be back on my log after a few attempts on that little board.

Nice morning!