Thursday, May 20th, 2010

Big Jetty Sunset

Surf: 4-6ft, some larger sets. Little bit choppy, but surprisingly clean for the size and the howling winds elsewhere. Left work early to sneak in a little sunset surfing. The sunset was beautiful. Big gold waves moody clouds. The surf was big. I tend to get skittish around 4ft on the longboard. It’s a lot [...]

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Monday, April 26th, 2010

Sunset at the Jetty

Surf: 2-3ft, Inconsistent, Mushy but smooth. Gear: 9’0 Stewart LSP? After wrapping work early, I decided to go for my first double session and catch a few waves at the jetty. Conditions were a little weak, but at that point, so was I. I haven’t done double sessions before (especially after getting up at 5am), [...]

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Sunday, April 18th, 2010

Board Repair and Testing

SURF: 2-3ft, little bit of jumble but fun, peeling, and beautiful sunshine. Gear: 9’0 Stewart Hydro Hull My 9’4 has been in and out of the repairshop lately. Poor board has been getting dinged at crowded breaks and, since it’s practically a new board, I have it repaired professionally. With the week or so turnaround [...]

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Sunday, March 21st, 2010

Self Imposed Skunking

SURF: 3-5ft, inconsistent, steeper than yesterday, much more closed out. Gear: 7’4 and 8’3 Petty With the size and steepness building for Sunday, I decided to go back to the 7’4. I paddled around, I didn’t catch anything. I saw a large crab floating around. I didn’t catch anything. I switched to the 8’3 and [...]

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Saturday, March 20th, 2010

Mellow longboard day with a 10’6

SURF: 2-4ft, very mellow, very clean. Long period small south-southwest swell. Gear: 10’6 A perfect longboard day spent on a shortboard is just cruel. A day like today is when longboards can really shine. They can catch even the smallest waves and float down the line like it’s nothing. With the Stewart still off being [...]

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Saturday, February 20th, 2010

The Jetty Gets Angry

Surf: Shoulder High to Well Overhead waves. Jumbled up, short period surf. Angry. I’ll admit it, I’m a little out of shape. 20 days between surf session is killer for surfing fitness. I’ve tried to do at least 20 pushups a day (made it to 40! yay!) but there’s no substitute for water time. That [...]

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Saturday, December 19th, 2009

Catching Waves on a Saturday

SURF: 3-4ft with 5ft standouts. A little inconsistent, not terribly clean but protected from the winds. Warm for the season, friendly and sunny. Trying to wait out the high tide, Aaron and I rolled up to the Jetty early afternoon. Aaron has pretty much the raddest board ever. I need to snap a pic next [...]

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Friday, December 18th, 2009

Early Friday at the Jetty

SURF: 3-4ft, mellow and fairly smooth. Second attempt at dawn patrol before my new gig. I’d already lost time putting my roof rack before I even got around to picking up Mike. He was a pretty good sport with my relentless swearing and freaking out about needing to be at work by 9. The delay [...]

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Tuesday, November 10th, 2009

Birthday Waves for Cynthia

SURF: 3-5ft. Cleaner than yesterday. Good shoulder high waves for some folks, waist high closeouts for me. Caught a mid-day session with Cynthia to celebrate her birthday. I caught one nice long mellow right and swamped a right I should have gotten. My neck is still really tight so I didn’t get in a smooth [...]

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Monday, November 9th, 2009

More shortboard Practice!

SURF: 3-5ft waves. Little choppy. Gear: 6’8 Rocket Most of the waves today up and down the coast were too big for me to catch and decent rides on my longboard. I decided to hit HMB to practice on the short board in at the jetty. It’s more protected so the waves were smaller. I [...]

1 Comment » - Posted in surfing by Tracey