Still Grey

2015-JT-05-29

Surf: 3.3 ft at 14.8 s from the SSW at 199°. NW winds at 17kn. Rising tide.

Woke up feeling like this low back pain was just a blip on the radar. Unfortunately when I pulled up to the beach, it was right back to being a mess. Doing what I always do, I said “well, I’m already down here, I’ll just suit up.”

Paddling around wasn’t too bad. I brought my 9’4 and had a much easier time getting in to waves, but with my back hurting, I wasn’t feeling great about the drops or the steep inside section. It was better than being skunked again, but I don’t think I did myself any favors. Hoping all this heals up before my San O trip! :S

Skunked

2015-JT-05-28

Surf: 3.9 ft at 17.4 s from the SW at 214°. High tide. NW winds 20kn.

Was hoping for more waves like yesterday, but the wind was up and all the usual spots were junked up.

Further south there was a beautiful peak with a crowd on it, but otherwise clean. I didn’t get a single wave, but had a great time watching everyone else take off.

Big downside: after driving back up to the city, I got out of my car and my back was really sore. It seemed pretty out of the blue. Ugh. I so don’t need another chronic thing keeping me out of the water. Hope this eases up soon.

Jetty

2014-JT-09-16a

2014-JT-09-17b Photo by sarahvgrives on instagram

Surf: 2.6 ft at 21.1 s from the SW at 214°. Incoming tide. Calm winds.

I know I’ve said this a few times, but I’m trying to get back out there, slowly but surely. Today’s plan was to go walk on the beach if I was too sore to surf (or there was no surf.) After checking a few spots, I was in the tricky situation of: 1- that wave looks really fun 2- it’s the only thing breaking and 3- it’s also a little too big/steep/closed out/excuse for what I was hoping for for an easy morning out. It was also too crowded to bodysurf safely.

I paddled out with a plan of mostly watching and picking up the little mushy waves. Saw Greacen get lots of really fun long waves. There were some grom kids shredding till mom yelled at them to come in for school. Seals swimming around. I did catch a few softer ones. It was tricky with everyone trying to go for every way, but I got one or two solo waves that made the paddle out worth it.

Also have enough sand in my ears for the rest of the year. Uff.

Drop

2013-JT-02-12

Surf: 11.2 ft at 16.0 s from the WNW at 297°

Last week’s winds seem to have teamed up with this morning’s unfavorable tides to make the surf less than exciting looking from the shore. I’d been out of the water for a week, so I passed on the usual spot and went looking for something working a little better.

That’s not to saw what I found was any better. It was passable and passable seemed worth getting wet for.

For the most part, waves were warbly, reflecting, or closed out, but I managed to sneak in one really nice drop.

I’ve been poking around on my Vaquero lately, picking up mushy beach break waves rather that waves with a little more push. This wave had some push. I forgot my little board could go that fast.

I took a wide bottom turn, way out in front of the wave, leaning super far into the face, just holding on by my toes. The board snapped up into the pocket like those little hulls do. Now this would have been the makings of a _great_ wave (for the day that is), but as I set up to take the line, the whole wave started pitching over and I jumped into the face hoping to avoid get smacked by the lip. Not only did it not work, but I should’ve just gone for it. Ahh well.

Oh, the guy in the photo I took for today’s surf, made the wave, got a nice drop, then claimed it big time. 😀
It made me smile. On days like today you need all the wins you can get.

2013 – Sunset

2013-JT-01-01

Surf: 8.2 ft at 13.8 s from WNW at 294°

Morning waves in SC were windblown and not terribly appealing. We wolfed down some breakfast and did a spot check of everything between Capitola and San Francisco.

Most places were big and burly.

Heading up the coast, I saw a bobcat hanging out on a dirt road.

As the sun was setting, we snuck in a quick cold one at the Jetty. Surf wasn’t great. Super closed out and ranging from waist high to head high in a bit of a jumble. Ah well. At least the ride, and the sunset, was beautiful.

Exceeded Expectations: Jetty Edition

Surf: Waist high with some Shoulder high sets.

The snarly, wind whipped waves at Linda Mar set my expectations really low as we did the long form surf check this morning. Montara was also not looking like fun. Time to adjust expectations and take on the jetty. At least it was cool.

Expectations definitely exceeded. They were set pretty pretty low after everything else I’d seen on the drive there, but they were exceeded greatly by those few crazy sets. Woosh.

The mellow waist high waves were not too shabby either. Fun for logs, fish, and boogie boarder.

Sunny, Peeling, Out of the Wind

Surf: Knee-Waist high. Peeling.

Three years ago to the day I took my first surf class. 😀

I was one of those surf school kooks with the red rashguard on to warn people to keep a safe distance. Crazy to think that was 3 years ago. Thankfully those 3 years have been filled with lots of stoke, many great rides, lots of wipeouts, and fun people to surf with.

Lindy was not observing my surfbirthday and instead was a jumbled, howling wind mess. Headed down to the jetty in favor of small, fun little waves. Got some good little rides, some sunshine, and a little fun before heading to a client meeting. Yay.

Double surf check

Surf Check 1: Blech. High tide, blowing winds, no organization. Messy, mushy, crumbly, swamped.

Chris got an emergency client call and headed back to the city. Caught up with Andrew for a bit but what not at all inspired to get in that slop by myself. Fun watching the dogs run around on the beach a while.

Surf Check 2: Not much better. Low tide. I made every stop on the way down. Some places were looking slightly peely, but all around the surf was windblown. Surfed the small waves at the jetty a bit. I’m kind of in a funk, workwise, surfwise, socially… The grungy surf isn’t helping. Blew out some cutbacks and cut things a little too close with a grom. Hoping for some calm surf soon.