Month: February 2018

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Cold waves, old wetsuit

Swell: 4.9ft at 16 sec from WNW Wind: 13mph from E Tide: Low 1.2ft at 08:36 AM Temp: Air 46.9F / Water: 50.2F

Cold, clean morning. The waves looked good but there was still plenty of waiting. Not as easy to catch and a little closed out with the tide.

I realized too late that I’d left my nice 5/4 at Chris’s so I wound up paddling out with my old 4/3 that’s busted through in the elbows and a leash with a knot in it. I surfed about like you’d think someone wearing a busted wetsuit with a janky leash would surf. I was a mess out there.

I had one wave where I didn’t quite get in, was able to add an extra paddle to get some time on the face, but by the time I did I was nearly to the sand.

Sadly my best wave for the day was the one where I dropped in on Bjorn. I think there was room enough to share, but I still like to give everyone their last waves in in peace!

Have a good time in MX, morning crew!

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Unexpectedly seasonal

Surf: 3.6 ft at 7.7 s from the WNW at 302°. Outgoing tide. Onshore, rising winds.

It’s been in the 70’s all week. Beautiful weather. Offshore winds. Then poof, the day I can make it out it goes back to cold and onshore. Still, I can’t pass up a beachy sunday with Chris and the girls.

I caught 2 waves before deciding it wasn’t worth burning out my shoulder. It wasn’t unridable. Naturally the sun came out right as we left. Ahh well. Next time.

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Small and Sunny

Surf: 2.5ft @ 8s from the WNW at 301°. Incoming/High. Light offshore.

74° and sunny today. With that kind of beautiful weather and today’s slow, small waves, each peak was shoulder to shoulder. There were a few near misses. I had two guys crash into each other dropping in on me, but amazingly I made it around them, even wish crouching down to deflect a board. Whew! Despite all that people were pretty friendly and smiling.

The wind kept the waves open just enough for some long, fun rides.

Dolphins stopped by. A Navy helicopter checked us out. Not bad. I’ve been needing these small days to get back out there without overdoing it and today was a good day for it.