Not great

2013-OBS-09-04

Surf: 3.3 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 291°

While I did get a few rides in, this morning’s surf was plenty lousy. The wind was up, the swell was mixed, everything was pretty closed out. I took out my 7′ quad and did managed so sneak in a nice long one. I always forget how hard it is to duck that board and sure enough, I smacked myself in the head with it…again. I also managed to bruise the crap out of my hand. No idea how that one happened.

In the lot a guy said “Is it as bad out there as it looks?” and I said “Yes, yes it is” but he paddled out anyway. Nice to know I’m not the only desperado foolish enough to try it.