Surf: 8.5 ft at 16.0 s from the W at 271°
I think this is the most like a wave I’ve seen the usual spot be in ages. Of course, that made for some exciting crowding. It always amazes me when it’s only a light crowd, but that crowd is always getting itself in trouble. Sigh.
Ah well, I got some waves, didn’t run anyone over (not for their lack of trying), AND got some sunshine. Yay.
Surf: 5.3 ft at 10.8 s from the W at 270°
Wow. Close out, party wave city today. I’d left my fish at the office, so I took the hull out. These were pretty much anti-hull conditions. Closed out, shallow, and just meh. Man this board is a beast to duck dive, especially under closeouts. I got so much sand blasted into my suit on these dives, I had to stop and flush it out. Ow.
Went home, got a beer, and hung out on the deck.
Surf: 9.8 ft at 12.9 s from the W at 261°
Brought my fish out this morning. Unfortunately waves were sectiony and lumpy and all around not that fun. Got a couple waves, but nothing terribly exciting. One day of many in the struggle to figure out this shortboard stuff. But hey, cool sky!
Surf: 6.2 ft at 14.8 s from the NW at 304°
Surf looks seriously closed out this morning so I skipped taking my board out and went for the handplane and fins.
I realized how out of shape I am about 3/4 of the way out. Huff puff huff puff. Still, it was pretty fun. Lots of sand in my ears and my eyes trying to get a barrel. I managed to lose BOTH fins on different waves. Thankfully I found them. There’s nothing sadder than one lonely fin.
Harbor seal bodysurfer
Repairing the breakwall
Surf: 4.3 ft at 10.0 s from the W at 297°
Ben mentioned needing to part with his lovely Bing Gold Standard in order to make room for a new board on the way. After a week of agonizing (is 9’6 too big? Do I want this board? Should Chris buy this board instead of me?), I reluctantly passed and Chris snatched it up.
Of course I had to try it out. I did the sensible thing and waited till after he got some swooping big waves, some step-filled long waves, and a few closeouts before asking to ride it.
It’s fuuun. Stable, I got some walking around. Swooshy, I got some swooshing in.
I did totally manage to wreck myself falling on the fin. Got a nice bruise on my ribs and thigh, but still, fun morning. 😀
I want a fancy longboard now!
Surf: 7.9 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 280°
Snuck out for a quick surf this morning. With the smaller swell and high tide, it was soft out there, but rideable. I didn’t really get any solid waves, but it’s been over a month since I took my fish out. My expectations were appropriately dialed I think.
One highlight of the morning, a whale swam by pretty dang close to us, surrounded by a pod of dolphins. I think that’s the closest I’ve been to a cruising whale.
Surf: 4.6 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 268°. High Tide.
Not as groomed and smooth as last week, but still a fun little morning of logging. Saw plenty of friendly folks. Water seemed clean enough. Did a lot of delayed pop ups into grab rail hand drag loggy stunts. Not terribly much else. 🙂
Surf: 3.0 ft at 12.9 s from the WSW at 256°
This winter has been plenty of those big, east wind, bright sun days with hardly a south wind rainy surf in sight. The drought finally let up with this latest rainstorm. I snuck out to get a few waves before the real rain started and the water mucked up.
Smooth grey waves and hardly anyone out. I couldn’t have asked for a better morning.
Today was one of those days where I feel like I actually do know how to surf. I took out the log knowing it would be a small wave day and got just the swoopingiest fastest smoothest rides. 😀 Fun fun.
I couldn’t resist taking a peek at the cams later. Here’s me working on a heelside cross step on a little wave. Wheeee.
Surf: 9.2 ft at 13.3 s from the WNW at 287°. High tide.
After struggling quite a bit lately, I was looking forward to a little Santa Cruz redemption (and a little hull time.) The tide was high, the wind was up, and Cg was having car troubles, but somehow things worked out.
I settled into a nice little takeoff away from the crowd. At first I was worried my crowd aversion was a mistake as I was having trouble getting in to anything. Finally things fell into place and it was a total wavefest.
There was another guy on a hull near me and we traded wave after wave. I finally managed to get into some steep ones and some bigger ones. Fun fun fun. My last wave was just perfect. Swooping, fast, long. Nice to be surfing again. 😀
Surf: 5.9 ft at 14.8 s from the W at 265°
After yesterday’s whompfest turned into better waves than expected, I had a few hopes today would be the same. It wasn’t. I ducked and ducked and ducked and said ehhh screw it, I’m going south instead.
Waves were plenty closed out, but, after struggling for a good long while, I did manage to actually surf some waves. I’m okay only getting a few waves, so long as those waves are competently surfed. Also nice to see a few friends in the water that I hadn’t seen for a while.
