Thursday Sunset

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2013-OB-01-17b

Surf: 2.3 ft at 13.3 s from the W at 270°

Yesterday’s sunshine and fresh air was pretty great, so I decided to sneak out again for a few more waves.

It’s been ages since I’ve taken my 9’4 out at Ocean Beach. I usually take my tri-fin longboard, but it’s still dinged, so single fin it was. A few waves were hilariously kooky. We’d camped out on a mushier smaller peak so there was plenty of room to goof off. I got one really fun wave along the seam of the rip. Broke right, left, right, left again. Worked on getting up the nose a bit for some great faceplants.

Great sunset, dolphins, all that good stuff.

Montara Late Shift

2013-MT-01-16

Surf: 3.0 ft at 14.8 s from NW at 307°

After Monday’s ice cold morning, a late shift warm and sunny surf in small waves sounded absolutely perfect.

The surf has been small and clean so we headed to Montara. It was a short, but nice little sesh. Clean, peeling, knee to chest high waves. Lots of fun on the longboard.

I’ve finally been getting some good waves again. I’m not sure if it’s the longboard or that I’m working harder on committing to waves or that I’m finally starting to get my thyroid stuff back in check so I have more energy.

I got one really nice wave that I thought for sure I was too far inside to get. I went for it and it paid off. Fun, fast and the wave of the day for this short little session. Yeeew. I still chickened out on that last little section in the shallows, but overall, it seems like progress.

Saw a sea lion napping in the sun on the beach. Everyone’s loving the sunshine after so much cold.

So. Cold. Brr. Cold. BRR.

2013-LM-01-14

Surf: 6.9 ft at 10.0 s from the NW at 317°

Wow that’s cold. Cold cold cold. I was fine in the water, but as soon as I was out…sheesh. My hands were screaming trying to hold my longboard in the offshore winds. I had to sit in Chris’s car to warm up long enough to get my key off the pesky short key loop. Oh man.

Surf was fine. Clean, long steep waves. I was struggling a bit, especially since the tide was rather low, but still managed to get a fun wave or two out of the morning. It was really starting to look nice was I was thawing out. The later session folks likely scored. 🙂

New Car

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2013-LM-01-09b

Surf: 7.6 ft at 11.4 s from W at 281°

Well, it finally happened. After 15 years and 135,000 miles, my Civic blew a head gasket.

I’d spent the weekend agonizing over wether or not to fix it. It was really hard to let the car go, especially since it was still running. The car had never had a problem before, so it very was unexpected when it started running rough in November.

After a lot of thinking, I decided to trade it in. It was hard, but I picked up a more surf-friendly Honda Fit to replace it. Believe it or not, this 13 and a half ft long car fits a whole 9’4 longboard inside, no problem.

Today was it’s first day at the beach.

Getting my 6’10 in as easy. It’ll take some work to figure out my new routine, especially now that I have a digital key instead of an old school metal key.

The surf was…not so great. I really struggled out there and got straight up skunked. Uff. That hasn’t happened in a while. Ahh well.

At least I had a sturdy new heater to keep my toes warm driving home. 🙂

2013-01-11

Seasick Monday

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Surf: 7.9 ft at 12.9 s from NW at 313°

Car is still in the shop. Looks like there might be something serious wrong with it. :\

Had some high hopes for another surprisingly fun session, but the surf turned out to be lousy. Oh man. It was seasick. Doubled up, tripled up, warbling all over the place. Got a few rides, including one that took some footwork to dodge the ever sectioning bits. Still, not so good.

One amazing thing, it was beautifully sunny at the beach. There was an amazing sunrise in Half Moon Bay during our Jetty check. But in the city, the fog was so thick I couldn’t see past the edge of the freeway. I couldn’t see the Bay Bridge until we were right under it. Then, just a few dozen feet before the pier, it cleared up again. Dramatic fog.

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Surprising Friday Longboard Carpool

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Surf: 11.2 ft at 12.1 s from WNW at 286°

My car’s back in the shop. Bummer.

Chris was kind enough to give me a ride to the surf. It looked crummy from the lot, but we gave it a shot. It actually turned out to be pretty fun. Sure there were the usual closeouts and crumbles, but there were some nice long rides too.

It helped that I’d taken the 9’4 out. It was really nice to get waves again after putting myself though so many low count/high frustration sessions on my shorter boards.

At one point someone said, Dude! You’re killing it! Blushing like crazy.

Back to cold morning surf

2013-LM-01-02

Surf: 5.9 ft at 12.9 s from WNW at 298°

Back from the Great Lakes, back from Santa Cruz, ready to face the reality of cold dawn patrols.

My car’s been acting up. I’m not sure if it’s from the cold, the early mornings, the rain, or what. It rumbled and grumbled on startup, but made it to the beach like a champ.

The waves looked like nothing from the lot. Maybe knee high. From the water, they were actually looking pretty fun! Nice, peeling waves, a few in the chest+ range. I would have loved to have had my longboard for a day like this, but still picked up a few fun ones on the hull.

2013 – Sunset

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Surf: 8.2 ft at 13.8 s from WNW at 294°

Morning waves in SC were windblown and not terribly appealing. We wolfed down some breakfast and did a spot check of everything between Capitola and San Francisco.

Most places were big and burly.

Heading up the coast, I saw a bobcat hanging out on a dirt road.

As the sun was setting, we snuck in a quick cold one at the Jetty. Surf wasn’t great. Super closed out and ranging from waist high to head high in a bit of a jumble. Ah well. At least the ride, and the sunset, was beautiful.

Sunset – 2012

2012-PP-12-31

Surf: 5.9 ft at 17.4 s from WNW at 290°

Last minute SC new years eve camping trip in the van! 😀

Surf was okay. Crowded, but I got a few fun long ones. It was hard work.

Afterwards, a little hot tub time, some Japanese food for dinner, then smores. Slept in the camper van.
Super chill NYE.

Surprise Apnea with Hanli Prinsloo

diveclass

At the end of November, I spotted this article in Surfing Magazine: http://www.surfingmagazine.com/blogs/surprise-apnea-for-surfers/#.ULeAVgSxckI.twitter

This article got me thinking. I’ve spent the last year struggling with my surfing, mostly struggling with fear. I took a few pretty good beatings last winter. One where my ears ached, where all I could see was dark water. One where I gasped at the surface only to suck in foam. More than one where I felt lucky to be all right.

I’m not sure if it was the size of the wave, the character of the break, or the fact that I was being drug through the wash by my longboard, but it felt like an eternity under water.

I don’t have the most confidence in my lungs. I’ve had asthma on and off. I get barking coughs with the slightest colds. Having my lungs tested by brute force was a bit terrifying. Sure, I made it through the hold downs from last winter, but part of me wonders if I could make it through the next. That part of me pulls out of waves I should have made. That part of me sits too far outside for my little board. That part of me is frustrating the heck out of the rest of me.

This class seemed like exactly what I needed.

There are much better articles about what you’ll learn from Hanli’s class, including this one by Cynthia. I’ll spare you the lecture (it’s better first hand anyway) and summarize what I learned instead.

Hanli teaches you an amazing amount about what your body does to survive under water. She focuses on yoga, relaxation, the mechanics of the dive reflect, and some swimming intervals. I highly recommend reading up on it and catching her class if you can.

From this class I learned I have a much greater capacity to hold my breath under water than I thought. I managed to go two minutes before I started having diaphragm contractions (the first hurdle one much get over in holding their breath.)

My first attempt was cut short by my typical roadblock: the mind game. I went through the breathing exercises. I waited fro Hanli’s go ahead, then took a big breath, belly, chest, and shoulders. I flipped over and waited. Maybe a minute or less, I started feeling like I had to swallow. Crap. There’s no good way to swallow in a dive mask. Now I’m thinking about swallowing. I’m thinking about how I’m laying face down in a pool. I’m wondering how long it’s been. I’m distracted and I’ve already started to fret. I gave up. I didn’t even get the time from Hanli. Shoot.

My second attempt I worked much harder on the mental aspect of it. I watched the seabirds fly overhead while doing my breathing exercises and tried to keep that image in mind while floating face down. This attempt went much better. Again, I didn’t get a time, Hanli said later it was about 2 and a half. Wile it may have been closer to 2:20 and certainly the shortest out of the whole class, it’s sill much longer than I’ve been able to hold my breath (while counting, who knows how long I was down on some of those waves.)

The interval training kicked my butt, I should probably start lap swimming, but overall I left the course with greater confidence. I now know that if I can stay calm I can last about two minutes. Hopefully I won’t have to.

Even with the class, I’m still struggling with fear. Even telling myself it’s going to be okay, I’m still feeling like there’s a big bubble of air in my gut and I can’t breathe. I’ll take some work. Hanli sent us homework to do to keep in breath-holding shape and I’m hoping to keep practicing the yoga exercises.

The greatest challenge will be the head game. Still, it’s nice to know I’ve got a little lung power on my side.