Author: Tracey

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Bodysurf!

Surf: Crumbly, disorganized, but it’s always overhead when you’re on your belly.

Did some ding repair during the day with Blam. My 9′ is now back in action after a few weeks drying out some minor dings. I glassed over a large section of the nose that wasn’t water tight. It’s not pretty but it’s not a terrible job.

After a few hours of that, we checked out the beach. It looked ragged and I figured it was a good time to start bodysurfing.

Swimming with a handplane is a little awkward but I was stoked to catch two waves and be able to swim the whole time. I’m not the best swimmer (not awful either) and was expecting to wear out pretty fast. It certainly is hard and I was wiped out later, but happy to have hung in there as long as I did. Yay.

What they say about bodysurfing is true, sand EVERYWHERE. Full suit + hood and I still had sand in my ears.

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Turnaround session, SC

Surf: Waist high with occasional shoulder high waves. Little bit bumpy. Low tide.

Caught plenty of long fun rides with Chris on the usual 6:30-9 shift.

Packed up, got some patries when Robert and Stefan rolled up for the 10-1 shift. Not sure this counts as a double session but the sun came up and the waves still looked pretty good. I unpacked all the gear,fought to get into my sopping wet wetsuit, and headed back out.

Not bad. Crowd up, wave frequency up, sun WAY WAY up, attitude up, wave size and relative cleanness stayed about the same.

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Mellow Westside

Surf: Mellow, inconsistent. Knee to Thigh high at Cowells. Waist-Chest at Indicators.

Crossed our fingers hoping there’d be some waves after a very mellow, barely breaking week down south. With the low low tide there was a little something happening. Got some looooooong rides over at cowells. Not too much uumph but I did get to work on a few tiny style points.

Headed over towards the Lane to try a longboardy peak thataways for a while. Some big drops and short rides. I got one nice top turn/cutback move to stay in the pocket. Nice to feel occasionally competent!

Chris shot some video. Yay!

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Party wave

Surf: Knee-Thight High, Peeling.

Nice little morning in the leftorium. Lots of smiling faces. Andrew on his new homemade belly board, Margit, John, and Mike all snagging waves and joking around. Got a few pretty fun ones. The sun even came out and everything was blue. Ahhh. Nice morning.

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Pretty nice

Surf: Waist-Shoulder high. Clean, glassy. Woot!

Nice nice morning out there today. Met up with Matt and Cali down at 41st. 38th was breaking with some good size and we got plenty of nice waves. Chris, Nicole and Cali hit Pleasure Point for a while. It was looking more crowded and on the larger side that aways. Matt and I were pretty content to pick up waves at 38th, so we did.

Fun, fun, fun.

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Exceeded Expectations: Jetty Edition

Surf: Waist high with some Shoulder high sets.

The snarly, wind whipped waves at Linda Mar set my expectations really low as we did the long form surf check this morning. Montara was also not looking like fun. Time to adjust expectations and take on the jetty. At least it was cool.

Expectations definitely exceeded. They were set pretty pretty low after everything else I’d seen on the drive there, but they were exceeded greatly by those few crazy sets. Woosh.

The mellow waist high waves were not too shabby either. Fun for logs, fish, and boogie boarder.

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Sunny 38th with Nicole’s New Board


Photo by Chris

Surf: Waist-Chest high. Peeling, glassy, occasional whomp.

Pretty beaut out there. Nice sun, clean waves, lots of action. It was pretty steep for 38th. Saw a few cover ups. Lots of short boarders in the water that far east. I got some nice ones. Chris got a top 10 ride of his life style wave. Nicole got to try out the sweet new board. It’s very fancy.

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Overdoing it?

Surf: Knee-Waist High, Clean.

After getting home from Santa Cruz around 11pm and exhausted, I didn’t really want to surf. But there’s this window before a storm when the winds are from the south and everything works out juuuuuust right…I can’t pass that up.

Cold, soft, but clean. I’ll take it.

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Memorial Day

Surf: Small, a little messy, but sunny and not too bad.

Ahh holiday surf. Normally I would NOT be trying to surf Santa Cruz, heck anywhere, on a holiday. Blam and Emily were already down there and the local surf sounded a bit ratty, so I pulled the trigger and headed down.

Not too bad, a little crowded but mostly beginners who were easily avoided. Fun little waves with lots of waiting. We camped out on a nice tiny peak with Emily to get her a few waves. She’s getting it! I love seeing new surfers super stoked about catching waves.

Bodysurfed a little bit. Surfed till my arms hurt and then met up with Matt for dinner and ice cream. Holiday shaped up pretty nice. 😀