Author: Tracey

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Bigger South Winds

Surf: Chest-Head high. Clean with some whomping closeout sets. South winds.

Woof! What a morning. South winds were doing their south winderly thing. Waves were way up in size from Wednesday morning. Lots of paddling to get my big foamy board through the inside, but worth it. Got one real fun racy left and lots of swooping rights.

Ran into Josh in the lot before paddling out. We haven’t surfed together in a year. Pretty fun being back out in the water again, especially now that I’ve had a year of practice and can go for some bigger waves. 😀

Chris snapped a few more nice photos:

P1000619

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East Side Tour

Surf: Mellow, Waist-Chest high. Clean.

Yay for SC Thursdays. Started out at the hook. It was fun, but a little crowded on the inside. We paddled over to 38th where a fun, small little peak was breaking. Got some fun little rides in while Chris shot a little video and took some pics. 😀 Soooo stoked about the vid. Also saw a whale again. Nice!

Pics turned out pretty good, too! Here’s me on one ride. I tried to get out in front of a section in the second shot. Was hoping to get a cover up out of it or something. So close!

Thanks for the pics, Chris!

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Little South Winds

Surf: Knee-Chest High. Peeling. Soft but pretty fun.

Finally! My work schedule and the wind schedule aligned for a morning surf back at Lindy. Sooo much nicer than that first Saturday back. Those pre-rain south winds were lazily grooming the waves into fun little shoulders and the mellow swell was making bowling little bits and mini barrels.

One guy I was talking to was working on getting barreled. I tried for a little head dip, not quite close enough to the curl but still plenty fun. Wheeee.

Out before the rain.

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South Swell, Whales, and Hot Chocolate


Photo by Chris

Surf: Waist-Chest high. Peeling. Long lulls but lots of energy.

Nice south swell rolled in this week. Cowells was breaking sooo nicely. It was crowded for sure, but plenty fun. Got some nice long waves that really zipped on the outside and held up all the way through. Plenty of otters chilling in the lineup and a whale splashing around outside the kelp. Grabbed some hot chocolate, a pastry, and cruised on in to work.

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Welcome Back, LM

Surf: Mixed up, closed out. Knee-Chest high. Cold. Bumpy!

After Santa Cruz’s mellow glassy welcome back, Linda Mar was a pretty abrupt change. Ouch. So much paddling and craziness. Got one long smooth left. Mostly hucked myself into closeouts. After one decent wave I decided to paddle in. Got caught up the angry inside chop for a while before finally free. Whew. I think Linda was maybe a little jealous I’d left her.

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Welcome back, SC


Photo by Chris

Surf: Mellow, Knee-Waist high. Glassy.

Ahh, back in cold water. Missing Mexico with all my heart but still feels good to be home. Surf was super mellow with long lulls. Got some nice little rides in.

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Sunday in Mexico – Last surf

Surf: Waist-Shoulder high+, glassy, long lulls, low and incoming tide.

Ah Mexico, thank you for everything.Thank you for nice waves, warm water, ukelele on the beach, more wonderful food than I could ever eat, mixes of frozen juice and tecate, lots of laughing, thanks for all it. I’ve had a wonderful time.

Many thanks to Ed for generously showing us around and patiently surfing with us stoked to the gills fools. Your support was much appreciated. I hope I can repay your generosity sometime.

For the last paddle out we hit Burros on the morning. It was glassy and beautiful, just a bit crowded. Waits were a little long, but the sets rolled in with plenty of great waves to pick off. Stefan got some nice bigger waves. I had one huge drop that just demolished me on the inside. Like la lancha, the left was much steeper and faster. I had to punch through a crashing section for one wave.

Caught one in for breakfast and just enough time to return our boards before the flight.

Mexico! So stoked!

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Saturday in Mexico – Late afternoon/sunset

Surf: waist high close outs, waist-shoulder high

Started as a blown out desperado session of waist high closeouts after many tecates. Despite strong offshore winds the heat lured me in. When Ed arrived the wind started to mellow and we hit Burros.

I blew my first five waves. Sigh. Too much tecate.

The waves and I both shaped up and I got some great rides in. It was a little crowded (can a single break really hold SIX stand up paddle boards?) but still lots of fun.

Got in another sunset before heading back to the house. They had made the most amazing feast of fish, octopus, veggies and rice. Just when I couldn’t possibly eat any more: ice cream. Amazing!

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Saturday in Mexico – Early am

Surf: Waist-Shoulder, glassy, long lulls.

After last night’s fun session we decided to catch a few more in the early morning. A few people were already on it, but still fun. Could of folks in the lineup were at La Lancha yesterday.

I could see lots of fish. Schools of medium sized fish with yellow tails, smaller needly fish, Larger darting silver finned fish. Petty cool.

Got lots of fun rights in. There was a woman on a longboard just killing it. She had the best grab rail cutback and stayed right in the curl the whole time. Nice!

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Friday in Mexico – Sunset: Stoked!

Surf: waist-head high, glassy with a little chop, long lulls.

Brilliant surf today. Wow. Between La Lancha and my first paddle out at Burros proper, I am completely stoked. Super stoked!

I got so many swooping big rights, it was awesome. Swoop swoop swoop, pumping down the face for loooooong rights. Beaut. Plenty of time to walk all over that big board.

I finally stayed out for a real sunset session. As amazing as dinner always is, I wanted those waves that much more. Brian, Robert and I stayed out well past the crowd and paddled in just after the sun disappeared behind the cliff.

Ed hung out for dinner and drinks. Louis made a bonfire. What a perfect day.