Author: Tracey

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Friday in Mexico – Midday


Photo by Blam

Surf: Waist-Shoulder high, peeling.

Ed dropped by this morning to take us on a little surf adventure a few minutes up the coast. In the ten minutes or so from the house to the turn out, we nearly lost the boards off the roof AND got attacked by a giant spider hiding in the beach towels. Adventure!

It was one of those dirt path through the brush to a break you can’t see style spots. Beautiful beach, point break.

Kinda funny to be in a lineup with other people after so many sessions on our own.

Caught lots of long soft rights before trying out the faster steeper left. Picked up one successful zippy left, took a few more on the head before a nice set came through. I paddled, I caught it, I blew the bottom turn and rolled with the wave. I surfaced to find my leash snapped and board skipping around on the inside.

Crap.

I’ve never had a leash break before. I wasn’t terribly concerned about being boardless, but being inside swimming around huge reef rocks to get my board under control was a little surprising. Got some help on the inside, snagged the board, took a few more waves on the head. When the set passed, I paddled back out, rigged up some sketchy triple knotted leash attachment and kept on surfing.

Tried out Brian’s hand plane in the beach break. Fun! I can’t imagine swimming a whole session like that. Dang. Gotta be in good shape for sure.

Came back to the house for ice cream, beer, and siesta. Stoked!

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Friday in Mexico – Early am

Surf: Knee-Waist high. Glassy. Inconsistent.

Yaaaawn. Woke up the latest so far. 9:30, crazy. Robert was already out so I joined him for a wave or two. He got some really nice ones.

Pretty mellow, glassy, worked up an appetite. 😀

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Thursday in Mexico – Midday: Marathon Float

Surf: Super mellow knee-waist high waves.

Spent most of the day floating around our break from one end to the other. Occasionally a set would lazily roll through. Emily was so kind as to paddle out beer in the kayak for some in lineup Tecate time. Cracking open a beer is a great way to ensure a set will roll through.

I tried a few one armed paddles but didn’t catch a wave with the beer. I did make it through three waves and nearly all of my beer before taking one on the head, saltifying the beer, and catching one in to recover the floating can. Stefan worked it out a little more elegantly: pound beer, put can in rash guard, catch wave.

After hours of floating, had some fruit and beer in the shade nursing some awesome knee sunburn. Happy Cinco de Mayo!

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Thursday in Mexico – Early am

Surf: Knee high, glassy.

Surf has come down a bit, but still fun. These mornings are glassy and beautiful. Wow.

It’s great to wake up, surf, throw my gear on a line to dry while I chow down on breakfast. If I could, I’d do this every day. Warm water, morning waves, breakfast. Pretty great.

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Wednesday – Late day: Pelted with fish

Surf: Waist-Shoulder high. Full of fish.

The other day Ed had mentioned these needle fish that get spooked and jump out of the water. After scratching to get over a shoulder high closeout, got to see the needle fish first hand. I was quite suddenly pelted by hundreds of these crazy skinny fish. They were all over my board, hitting me from every direction. I shrieked like a little girl before laughing. Fish! Everywhere!

Pretty fun session. Lots of fun peeling waves. Still haven’t made it to proper sunset, dinner is just too tasty.

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Wednesday in Mexico: Mid day in Town

Wind was blowing pretty hard. Seemed like a nice day to drive around.

We took some little road through the hills to get to Sayulita. Being a bunch of surfers, we went straight from the car to the beach. Plenty of waves, pretty crowded tho, hectic out there. Saw some people just TEARING it up.

Walked around town before settling on drinking pina coladas on the beach. Plenty to see there, but was feeling mellow and enjoying watching the surfers. Laughed a lot. Learned how to say “swarm of bees,” which I’m sure will come in handy should our beach be invaded by bees again. (enjambre de abejas)

Eventually met back up with the rest of the group and went on to San Francisco for another surf check:

Looked heavy. Steep beach was making for breakneck waves close to shore. Watched the one guy out go for a wave and snap his leash. Didn’t look like fun surf, but the town was mellow and pretty.

Took the highway back for more adventures. Abandoned cars, iguanas! Yay Mexico!

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Wednesday in Mexico – Early am

Surf: Foggy, mellow. Knee-Waist High.

Another wonderful morning. Smooth, glassy, now with Fog. Just like SF with air and water temps in the 70’s. My arms are finally starting to get sore. Spent some time waiting for the tide to come up stretching.

Still loving going straight from the water to the breakfast table.

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Tuesday in Mexico – Late Afternoon

Didn’t surf in the hazy afternoon. Napped and let my jello arms recover. Did photograph some of the guys surfing. Rather unexpectedly BEES descended on us. Nicole and I escaped to the seawall for some much needed sitting around time while the bees passed.


Nicole, skeptical of the ocean.


Stefan, on a left.


Chris, heading right.


Robert! (Taken by Stefan)


Matt gets a nice one (Taken by Stefan)


Blam, Chris, Stefan, and Nicole. Chillin post-surf.

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Tuesday in Mexico – Mid day

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Surf: Waist-shoulder high. Little bit of wind. Shifty.

Surfed a bit after breakfast. My arms we so sore. Need to remember to stretch before paddling out there times a day.

Caught a few fun ones. Decided to switch things up after a bit on the 9’6. Paddled out on the little 5’10 twin fin fish. Even with jello arms it seemed to paddle okay. I caught a few waves and blew them on the pop up before finally getting a real ride in. Very stoked. Arms, mega jello.

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Tuesday in Mexico – Early am

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Surf: Waist-Shoulder high. Slightly glassy. Mellow.

Early morning solo paddle out. Swell has come down a little from yesterday, but still plenty fun. Lots of peaky rights, swoopy turns, and sunshine. Robert paddled out a little later and snagged a few. Had a nice right where I swooped up high and dropped in for a big bottom turn around him.

Lovely pre-breakfast session.