Surf: Cleaner, 2-4ft.
It’s been so windblown and meh here that it was really nice to see a “clean” day. Not perfect, sure, but rideable. I got lots of fun drops in, cheating some closeouts a little.
Little bit of sun and some light offshores. A bunch of balloons floated by.
Chris’s delamed board finally gave in to entropy and crunched under a larger cleanup wave. Poor board. Cut the session short.
Surf Check 1: Blech. High tide, blowing winds, no organization. Messy, mushy, crumbly, swamped.
Chris got an emergency client call and headed back to the city. Caught up with Andrew for a bit but what not at all inspired to get in that slop by myself. Fun watching the dogs run around on the beach a while.
Surf Check 2: Not much better. Low tide. I made every stop on the way down. Some places were looking slightly peely, but all around the surf was windblown. Surfed the small waves at the jetty a bit. I’m kind of in a funk, workwise, surfwise, socially… The grungy surf isn’t helping. Blew out some cutbacks and cut things a little too close with a grom. Hoping for some calm surf soon.
Surf: Closed out. Messy.
Moments of glimmering hopefulness and long grueling spans of closeouts. Waist-Shoulder high corners looked obtainable, but mostly mushy to pitching to mushy to pitching waves. Chris snagged some nice ones. I grumbled about picking my less foamy board and spent the session hacking up bits of seaweed after drop and wash rides.
I was a mess out there. I was not digging throwing myself into closeouts. I got lots of hard fast bottom turns followed by a wall of mucky water smashing me unforgivingly. I had seaweed in my hair, in my eyes, blech.
Surf: Small, clean.
LM was looking pretty sloppy so we went on a SMC break tour. Not a lot was happening out there. I was sporting some awesomely fluffy slept on hair and went for the paddle out anyway despite tiny tiny waves. Was actually pretty fun in a small wave laughing at yourself kind of way. Saw Chris steal quite a few long rides from those hungry looking knee high closeouts. He got the wave of the day for sure.
Surf: Little lumpy with shoulders holding up.
Sunny, shifty and a bit lumpy out there. Mix of knee to chest high waves. Some nice clean little corners for fun long rides and plenty of slow soft closeouts. Handful of folks out. Was shaping up a little with the tide change. North current on the inside, south on the outside.
Surf: Waist-Chest high. Not too shabby.
Sunny, warm, and a little crowded. Some April-fools style chest high waves that look like they are dead set on going left, only to hold up right. Few whopper++ close out cleanup sets coming through. I got a few nice rights. Nice warm offshores. Hard to leave the warm sunny sand for the office.
Managed to cut my fingertip on my leash during a rather messy inside paddle. Another long struggle to get out of my wetsuit. Ouch.
Surf: Waist – Chest high with some standout cleanup sets.
Misty morning with low winds, pink hues, and some fun waves. I had some plenty fun waves and a ridiculous wipe out that left me cut up and a little sprained. The waves were going from mushy to jacked up to mushy and I managed to paddle for a manageable wave while it was mushy only to have it pitch me into a free fall. Looks like I punched the tail of my board trying to get it under control as I was coming down. Caught the find with my pinky and jammed the rest of my fingers. Ouch.
Didn’t stop me from getting a few more really fun rides in, but it took FOREVER to get out of my wetsuit. I couldn’t really grab a hold of anything without being able to use my left hand so it was a good 15 min of awkward hopping. >_< Made it out tho!
Surf: Soft, mellow. Knee high. 8.9 ft at 17.4 s from the WNW at 300°
Finally! Been bugging Chris for ages to do an SC dawn patrol. Winds were light and the waves were mellow. Nothing epic but plenty of little fun waves. Sea otter chilled with us for a bit. Grabbed pastries after before making the trip back up to the city.
My old wetsuit is back from being repaired. Sadly RipCurl wanted $125 to repair everything so I just had them do the worn out knees. Looks like it will be a summer suit from now on. Poor suit, it was fun while it lasted but since it was deteriorating after less than a year I can’t imagine it will have too many summers left.
Hoping to get more SC time in now that the sun is coming up a little earlier. 🙂
Surf: Windy! 20-25knots. Waist-Chest High. 6.6 ft at 11.4 s from the WNW at 283°
Hoo hoo howdy. It’s plenty windy out there, plenty hard to catch, but plenty fun once you’ve got it. Cleaner than Wednesday, but a little more vengeful. Fair for the shoulders that held up, Poor+ if you count for vengefulness/closeouts. Ouch+ on the Hawaiian kickout I pulled on a wave about to close out on me on the inside.
I got a really fun wave that was evidently pissed I was able to break through the wind and catch it. Dropped me and my big board right into a churning unruly inside. After trying to fight that much foam back out, decided to call it a day early and fight the wind back to the lot instead.
Walking from the far north end to the lot was a battle. The wind was just howling. I had to stop and sit down at least once.
Packed up just in time to get out before the squall hit. Well, mostly. I’m pretty soaked. Stoked!
Weather got so rowdy there was a waterspout at ocean beach:
Surf: Waist-Shoulder High mess. Strong Current.
I saw a pair of surfers standing on the beach for a while when I was suiting up. A softie and friend who I am guessing were hoping to ride whitewater. The north current on the inside shot them out of view very quickly. For anyone looking to just catch foam on a day like today today, take caution when currents are pushing hard. It’s a very short trip from messy unruly foam to OH GOD WHY sized whitewater.
Plenty sloppy on the outside, too. Got some fun rides out of it and a lot of sloshy sloshing. G stole way more waves from the jaws of slop than I did, but I’m happy enough with what I got.
While I was getting ready to leave, a guy drove up and cheered for having even gone out. Yay for friendly parking lot folks.
Debated rinsing my mouth out with some of the office scotch this morning to ward off any dirty water. There was a meeting going on in front of the booze and I didn’t want to disrupt them with my 9:30 shot o scotch. Maybe tomorrow.
