Author: Tracey

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Pregame


Photos by Luke

Surf: Inconsistent, crumbly. 7.5 ft @ 11.4 sec from the W 278º

Spent most of the weekend being a shut in, working on a bunch of projects. Managed to be pulled away for a few hours by the nice weather. Surf wasn’t as nice, but hey, can’t argue with sunshine and warm weather.

It’s great being able to change in the parking lot without keeping my coat, hat and mittens on. It’s nice to come back to a warm car.

Aaron and I picked of lots of smalls steep closeouts. Couple decent rides, mostly drop and wash followed by some bbq demolishing time while working/half watching the superbowl.

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Busy Week

Surf: Jumbled up, crumbly. 8.9ft @ 13.8s from the WNW 288º

I’ve been busy busy busy. New projects, recovering from my trip, lots of late nights, etc etc excuse excuse. Managed to miss all kinds of surf through the week. Friday I got in a few hours of jumbled surf. There were a few rides and there were a lot of closeouts and one over the falls moment I wasn’t too stoked about.

It’s nice that it’s sunny, it’s nice that it’s warm. Hopefully next weekend I’ll get sleep, time, etc etc less excuses.

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Welcome home, Cowells

Surf: Slow, mellow knee-waist high waves. Clean. 6ft @ 14s from W 278º

Nice to be back in the water after my work trip.

The surf was plenty big in the city and, after almost 2 weeks dry, I figured a mellow SC session was in store. Shannon also had SC on her mind. We took her big surf van down there. I haven’t had the luxury of taking BOTH longboards before. Swanky!

Cowells was slow and sweet. I got man long, mellow rides in with long mellow paddles back out. I was beyond beat. It’s amazing how fast one gets out of shape.

The drive was beaut. The surf was firing all along the coast. I saw whales spouting, barrels being thrown, and some of the most beautiful sunsparkled mist I’ve seen in a while. Great day.

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Misty Montara

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Surf: Soft, but powerful. Mostly clean. 3.3ft @ 8.3s 247º WSW

I spent a long time standing in the lot looking at LM. It was barely breaking. Tiny ripples with far too many people already working them.

After some hemming and hawing, we looked further south.

I’m picky about Montara. It has to be small, it has to be clean, it has to be mellow.

I’d assumed that by now Luke had dragged J-Bird and Jacob out at Montara at least once, so I didn’t think anything about taking them out with us and skipped the “By the way, there’s a SHARP drop off right by the edge of the water” piece of advice and felt terrible as J-Bird disappeared in a loud splosh while getting in. Ooops! I’m a terrible surf guide!

Lots of fun waves and moody atmosphere. Saw Chris nail a big cutback with lots of spray! Yeah!

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Yay! Camera!

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Surf: Small, clean. Fun! 267º W 3ft at 14.8seconds

Chris got a camera! Today was a perfect day to try it out. Super mellow, peak all to ourselves. Great great great.

I got in a few paddle-less takeoffs (and a few not successful attempts) and some great rides. Chris got some pretty fun pictures (including a great video of me completely wiping out and the wave that took me out taking him out.) Hopefully I can repay the favor on another super fun little day.

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Not so bad Jetty

Surf: Inconsistent, but somewhat peeling. 6.6 ft @ 8.3 sec from NW 317º

Over drinks the night before, there were promises made of Sunday morning surf meet up. I said no no no, I couldn’t possibly. I’m tired, I’m not feeling well, excuse goes here. Well, I went anyway. The instigator of the plan didn’t show, but plenty of other folks did.

Standing in the lot I grumbled about how sloppy, small and uninspiring things looked. In the water things were much better. I got plenty of small smooth little rides. Not too shabby after all.

Afterwards we demolished some serious lunch. Good day spent with friends.

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Hats and Scarves

Surf:Inconsistent Waist-Shoulder high. 9.5 ft @ 16 sec from the NW 315º

Brr. Today felt colder than those days when the air temps were in the 30’s. Everyone in the lot was bundled in hats and scarves. Except for the hours of shivering after, there’s something pretty romantic about laughing with friends standing on the beach while all covered up in hats and mittens and scarves.

The waves were not so oddly picturesque. Indecisive warbley things. Hard to pick out. Got in a few fun rides but mostly paddle for lumps that turned out to be nothing or secretly 4 waves bunched together.

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Cookies

Surf: 7.9 Feet @ 14.8 Seconds 294º West NW

Plenty fun in the usual place. Lots of long left lines. Had to work a little harder today. Vs curent and vs softer waves.

I’d been bringing christmas cookies to the lot since getting back. For the most part it’s just been me and Chris mowing through them. Finally got around to distributing them a little better, handing a few off to Andrew.

Hopefully I’ll get around to making another batch.

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First Surf of 2011

Surf: Waist-Shoulder high. 6.9 Feet @ 16 Seconds from the NW 310º

Hello 2011. You greet me with sunshine, a beautiful pink sky, and froggies singing in the marsh. Some pretty fun waves in the usual spot we’ve been so fortunate to enjoy this winter. Plenty of current and a little crowd to keep people on their toes.

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Thank You, 2010

Surf: Fun, cold, somewhat inconsistent. Waist High to Head+. Crowded. NNW 330º 6.9 Feet at 11.4 Seconds

Plenty of long rides and big drops today.

What a year. I’ve enjoyed some very bright moments (having work again, getting into a more consistent dawn patrol habit, that nice working left we’ve had all winter) and I’ve had some tough times.

I started this little surf site to share my experiences learning how to surf with my family back home, mainly my grandmother. When she passed away in June, I was very tempted to let the site go. I missed her terribly and somehow taking quick pictures of the surf felt a little empty.

Looking back on all my pictures, it’s nice to have the memories. I remember calling my grandmother and telling her about this surf day or that one. I like having the record too, even if it is silly.

I’m looking forward to a few things on 2011. I try not to be too specific, I like to enjoy the good things as they come and not get too hung up on expectations.

Here’s to all the good things, good people, and good waves of 2010. Remember them all fondly and forever. Here’s wishing many good things for 2011.