Author: Tracey

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PM Doublesun

Surf: Waist-Chest High, less consistent.

Yay! Freckled and happy. I got to watch a nice looooong sunset and catch a few waves. Wave quality was better in the am but I’m more than happy to doublestack my stoke. I saw both Chris and Aaron get some nice rights. Crowd was crowded, but mostly friendly. Saw a few faces from this morning out there. 😀

With the crowd I had to take a few slightly close drops. Sorry to the newbies on the inside I gave heart attacks to. I got a night left right around Aaron. Next time I’m gonna high five him and we’ll both get signed.

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AM Doublesun

Surf: Waist high, mellow, clean waves. Warm sun.

I couldn’t really sleep. It happens. When Chris checked in to ask about a dawn patrol I was up watching a documentary on netflix trying to fall back to sleep.

Man, was I happy I dragged myself out of bed. Warm sun, blue sky, friendly folks. Saw Chris get a few really nice ones as I was paddling out. After picking off a few half decent waves, I spent some time sitting on the beach. I rarely get to just sit on the beach. It’s usually cold and foggy and I’m rushing off to work.

I sat for a little while and watched the waves. I spotted a nice left that everyone kept trying to take right. After watching a few sets, I paddled out for it. Timing was key. I had to wait for a nice one that wouldn’t have someone trying to take it right. With patience and a careful set up, I was rewarded with a nice long fun left.

Most waves I ride, I enjoy, then they fade into blueish greenish greyish moving memories that soon fade. Waves are ephemeral and meant to be enjoyed in the moment so it’s natural to let them go. Waves like my morning’s left are the ones I get to remember. I had a long line, lots of deep blue wave face. I had speed, I had turns, I linked up to the inside section. Everything went smoothly right in to the beach.

I was so happy. Got a few compliments on the beach even. What a morning!

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Warm sun!

Surf: Waist-Chest High. Consistent.

Look at that blue sky. Blue! And all of a sudden it’s summer in San Francisco. The parking lots were packed and I found myself in the very foreign situation of walking barefoot across hot sand. Yup, hot sand. Just like a beach anywhere else in August.

Waves were fun, but a little crowded. Lately I’ve been pulling some funky grab rail action to get trim and dodge folks camping on the inside. Got a few fun ones. It’s nice to chill in the lineup with sun on my face and barefoot feet. Such a treat to surf in the sunshine.

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Not Quite a New Swell

Surf: Knee-Waist High, Little junky

Went on a wavehunt this morning. Drove by OB, the whole Pacifica coast, all the way down to Half Moon Bay. Pretty mellow, pretty warbly. Wound up surfing longer than I’d though, getting a few fun waves. Nice to be out. New waves to come soon.

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Flat and Dark

Surf: Ankle to Knee high and dark

We sort of got a jump on the sun this morning. Spent a little bit sitting in the parking lot in the dark watching hints of whitewater barely breaking and listening to NPR.

Sunrise didn’t find conditions to be much better than in the dark. 4 of us tried to will one little sort of peak into working with mixed success. At least I got some water time in and got to work early.

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Funky Bolinas

Surf: Knee to Waist High, Junky.

Mixed up junky day in Bolinas. Met up with quite a few folks up there and got a few fun little waves. Andrew was able to get a few stable rides in. It’s always fun to watch friends who are learning to get waves.

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Junky Surf, Pretty Weather

Surf: Knee to Waise high, junky.

Yeah, it was junky. Yeah the wind was on it and warbling it up. But hey, it was pretty dang fun. Poor wave quality but def a good time. Like most Linda Mar summer days, it favored those with foam. One spot breaking pretty well but Chris and I went for the surfari and rode the current up the beach checking out a few more. Some good shoulders. Much crumbly crumbling.

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Wild Wildlife

Surf: Knee-Waist High. Junky.

Pretty low expectations once again exceeded. Spent about 4 hours paddling around catching waves here and there, running in to friends. In the last hour or so of the session I was looking out to sea and saw a pretty big something jump pretty far away from us. Something big with a white belly and some serious heft.

Since it’s shark week on discovery, I’m not going to speculate. The ocean’s plenty wild and this season’s been rather active for animals of all sort. It spooked a few people, the rest of us kept on surfing. Seeing a quick glance of something very far away isn’t enough to know what is was. Dolphin, whale, big fish. Whatever it was it was far off and doing it’s ocean wildlife thing.

To put it in perspective I’ve surfed over a hundred times, once seen something like this and once been in the water when someone else had experienced something like this. It’s their ocean, the fishes, the mammals, the critters, and the plants. I’m doing my best to be considerate of them and I certainly hope they return the favor.

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Sunset Monday

Surf: Knee high with some pretty strong sideshore winds. Rideable.

Snuck out for another afternoon session before the brunt of this week’s work is expected to hit. There was a small group just tearing up this peeling wave at the middle of the beach. Nose riding, all that fancy stuff.

I drifted more to the north, getting some decent rides in. One right in to the sand. One left on the outside wave, then jumping back for a peeling right on the inside. More barefoot surf time in. Good way to kick off the week!

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Another Sunny Friday

Surf: Knee high waves, inconsistent and a little crumbly.

Work this week was pretty brutal. After finishing my project I race out the door and on to the waves. Little crowded out there but catchable and offering a few good rides here and there. The mellow waves this summer has offered up are proving some long rides and a great connection to the inside waves. Nearly all my rides were right to the beach. More barefoot surfing. We’ll see if I can hold out all summer.

Didn’t eat anything all day. Thoroughly DEMOLISHED some tacos after.