Buoys: 6.2 ft at 21.1 s from the WNW at 291°
Checked the buoys in the am and they looked like nothing I wanted a piece of, but I did want to go look so I headed down to the beach. Sticker and Carl were already out. We watched them for quite a while. While I love watching folks get big stuff, I got breakfast instead.
Surf: 2.0 ft at 6.7 s from the W at 276°.
Hit up a demo at Aqua today. The waves were pretty much non-existant, but hey, always fun to try new boards. Sunny, warm, but crowded, and closed out little waves. Lovely bbq after.
Surf: 3.6 ft at 6.2 s from the WNW at 295°, rising tide. Winds at sea.
Today was certainly a change from the rest of the week. Fog. Slop. OMG so many people. Do none of you work on Fridays?! Anyhow, that aside, the Bakerfish evidently doesn’t like slop. It was a frustrating morning trying to get the dang thing moving. That was a pretty quick love affair. One good wave, and a whole morning of mehness. I’d love to try it again sometime, but I’m not sure when we’ll have a sort, clean, small-medium sized day again.
Photo by Brien
Surf: 3 ft @ 9 s from the WNW at 296° and 3 ft @ 12 s from the W at 277°. Rising tide.
FINALLY took out the fish Josh N let me borrow ages and ages ago. It’s totally flat, and since he opened with “yeah this the the board that broke my nose,” I wasn’t sure I wanted to take it out. I like that my fish has rocker and concave. This fish has neither 😉
It’s smaller than my fish and a twin keel, so it rides much different. The first wave I got it felt super skatey, which was rad for turning fast, but the first big drop it felt like it was going to squirrel out on me. Thankfully it didn’t, weeeeeeeee. Man that was a fun one.
I was really hoping to get a similar wave front side, but sadly I did not. Maybe friday!
Photo by Brien
Surf: 3.6 ft at 8.3 s from the NW at 305°, plus 3.3 ft at 12.9 s from the WSW at 247°. High tide.
Got a late start this morning, but was determined to make it out anyway. Wish the fish in the shop I took out my big longboard. Yuff. A few of the waves were breaking just steep enough to make me wish I’d brought another board. Without the fish I’m left unable to duck dive, but with a few exceptions, I was able to keep a hold of that beast.
I got a few long, fun waves with steep inside sections. Otherwise the morning was a little bit soft. I went after a wave, but didn’t quite make it. The guys were just howling. Oh man. I was laughing so hard. Nothing like paddling like a maniac for a wave that fizzles out. Ahh well. Nice to sneak in a few. 🙂
Surf: 3.9 ft at 8.3 s from the NW at 306°. Falling tide. Light winds.
After a week of some sizeable sloppy waves, it was so nice to have more of the beach to surf and EXTRA nice that the waves were waves and not closeouts! I realize my bar is set pretty low but yeeeewwww. I’ll take it.
Got a few big swooping waves up north by myself for a while. A few fun attempts to work on my longboard tricks in the middle. I’m trying to work my way back up to the kinds of waves I was getting on my longboard before I got clobbered in Santa Cruz. Today was a pretty good start. A few of the waves were quite steep and fast, so I had to really commit.
Overall, plenty fun surf. Pretty wavelike.
Surf: 6.9 ft at 10.8 s from the NW at 308°. Falling tide. Off/side shore.
The sunrise was beautiful this morning. The crowd at the usual end of the beach was not. Between a strong current and the rest of the beach being pounding closeouts, there was a huge clod of people down there. I tried to stick further north and huck myself into closeouts but MAN. I was having a hard time getting into them. I got one wave, the rest was faceplants or totally misses.
Terribly frustrating. I know I need to commit more and just get clobbered, but uff. It’s one thing to go for it and get a great wave at the risk of getting worked (or get a great wave, then get worked at the end.) It’s another to know the only thing this wave offers is a suckerpunch and still want to launch yourself into it. But hey, maybe it’s better than no waves at all?
Surf: 7.9 ft at 10.0 s from the WNW at 296°. Low tide. Offshore.
We woke up super late this morning, but somehow managed to sneak in a surfy session. Most of the beach was closed out and the usual spot was serving up some fairly exciting fast, late drops. Yipe. It was actually really fun. I got a few screaming swooshing air eject rides and some very surprising duck dives where I >didn’t< get steamrolled which was a huge relief. Sometimes the days when the waves seem like they are going to be soul crushing, then aren't, are really fun. All the perceived risk, not so much of the actual risk.
Surf: 9.8 ft at 10.8 s from the WNW at 300°. Outgoing tide.
While I didn’t have the highest hopes for today, I was still a little bummed by how mixed up the surf was. Oh well. I took the hull out and managed to pick of some long, extra wiggly waves. It was pretty fun, for a sloppy session. It helped that only a few people were out. I forgot how hard it is to duckdive that board, I was exhausted after a few waves.
Somehow, both Brien and I managed to cut up our feet. Him on his board, me on a rock. I didn’t even notice mine till we were done making sure he was okay. It’s a big ole scrape, but not too serious.
Surf: 3.0 ft at 14.8 s from the SW at 195°. Offshore.
Day 2 of sun and fun at the beach. Waves looked amazing today, but I was too exhausted to face the hollow inner bar un my 7’0. Instead, I body surfed a while. It was ridiculously fun. I got some looooong real waves.
After that, sandcastles, snacks, sunbathing. Wrapped it all up with ice cream and shady’s in the park. Seriously love these kinds of weekends.
