Tag: california

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HSBG Saturday

2013-OBN-10-05

Surf: 3.0 ft at 16.0 s from the S at 175° and 3.0 ft at 7.7 s from the WNW at 300°.

Another weekend in the sun? Yes PLZ. Tim and I headed out to Ocean Beach. With HSBG parking was a mess so we parked the first place we found, paddled out at the first wave we found. It was pretty fun! Super cruisey, super forgiving, sunshine, and an optical illusion that made all the boats look like tiny toys.

Got a couple huge compliments from Tim on my surfing, which really made my day.

Afterwards, we grabbed some snacks and headed to HSBG. Music in the park. <3 Screen Shot 2013-10-11 at 3.37.41 PM
Photo by tim

Screen Shot 2013-10-11 at 3.36.13 PM
Photo by brien

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Friday

2013-LM-10-04

Surf: 5.3 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 304°.

Still sloppy, but plenty fun this morning! Margit is back from her surf safari in central america. While I didn’t get too many details on the trips certain awesomeness, we did catch a ton of fun, silly waves in the sun. Nice morning. 🙂

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Short rides, relatively

2013-LM-10-03

Surf: 5.3 ft at 7.1 s from the WNW at 297°.

I get terribly spoiled by Santa Cruz. While it was more crowded, the rides were very long. Today was a little messy and the rides were shorter. It was still plenty fun (messy but fun will be a theme for a while.) Even with the slop, there were still some long rides to be squeezed out of the lemons. Wheeeeeeee.

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Birthday Beach Day – Afternoon

2013-SCHK-10-01

Surf: 10.8 ft at 14.3 s from the NW at 308°. Low tide to incoming. More wind.

The swell came down in the afternoon, but the surf was plenty fun. I took out my fish to sit further inside with Beamer and Brien on their fishies. Paddling out was a pretty amazing time to realize how completely exhausted I was. Whoops. I managed to sneak in one very long wave that made me very happy. I kept the fish snug in the pocket with lots of fast swooping turns. Managed to hold on to the very end of the wave. So stoked.

Sadly, an older guy on a log was fussing with his board, swung his tail around and put the fin directly into my rail. MAAAAAN. First ding on that board. The guy didn’t even apologize, he paddled off.

I shrugged the whole thing off with some hot tubbing and milkshakes for dinner.

Way too stoked on my wave to be as crushed as I thought I was going to be by the first ding on my baby.

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Birthday Beach Day – Morning

2013-SC-10-01

Surf: 11.8 ft at 15.4 s from the NW at 306°. Incoming tide. Light winds.

Birthday surf is pretty much my favorite excuse to skip out on work and head to the beach. 😀

It was Chris’s birthday yesterday and unfortunately yesterday was full of meetings so today we got up very early and headed south to escape the local winds.

The surf in SC was pretty solid. It had a little texture on it from all the winds out in open water, but otherwise was running just a little bit overhead and lovely. I took my longboard hoping to get a few extra waves in and hoping I could sit further outside for maximum birthday hooting. Of course, I wound up doing what I always do and camping out wide of the peak to get the soft sets that miss first peak.

I got some funnn ones. Big ole longboard swooshes and swoops. What a blast. Everyone else got some nice ones, too! We were out there for about 3 1/2 hours. I was starving by the time we were done.

Headed to Paula’s for some seriously syrupy breakfast. That totally hit the spot. Grabbed a new wetsuit for Chris (finally!) before head headed back north.

Napped on the beach waiting for the tide to change. 😀

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Beach day Sunday

2013-LM-09-29

2013-OBN-09-29

Surf: 4.6 ft at 12.9 s from the NW at 309°. Outgoing tide. Light onshore winds.

Super fun beach day today. Friends brought their beach blankets and their kiddos for lots of family fun. We bodysurfed a ton, made sandcastles, and surfed a little too. The swell was coming up pretty fast. I was surprised how much was showing this early. Plenty closed out, but still fun. I got a couple of really fun ones on Brien’s Mitsven. That board is smooooth. I also shouted a heads up to a woman laying on her board watching the shore and not watching the incoming set. She still got tossed pretty good, but at least she knew it was coming 😉

Afterwards hit the Pizza Place and Polly Ann Ice cream. Mmm. Couldn’t ask for a better weekend.

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Sunny Saturday

2013-OBL-09-28b

2013-OBL-09-28

Surf: 3.0 ft at 14.8 s from the W at 276°. Low tide. Calm.

Fun little waves today! Piled into the truck with Tim and his friends and headed down to the beach. After struggling so much yesterday, I was setting my personal performance bar pretty low.

Thankfully it was a very forgiving day. Waist-chest high, not too mushy, not too dumping, little bit punchy. I got a great wave right off the bat. I was so stoked. Got in lots of swooping turns and hung on until the very very end working all the little corners. It was such a relief to get something good.

Lots of fun to watch the guys get good ones. Yeah, it was small, but clean! And we got in in some window where it wasn’t that crowded either. As the afternoon went on, the wind came up and so did the crowd. I bit it on a wave and came up right in another guy’s way. He did a HUGE cutback and hucked a bucked of spray. Had I been out at Lindy I’d probably have been run over. Glad the crowd was more people who could surf than ones who couldn’t. Some of the longboarders were getting some pretty sick rides. Folks were looking seriously stoked.

I’m still working on doing an actual cutback instead of just a stall at the top. Tim gave me the silly sounding advice of pointing my thumbs in the direction of the turn. It’s advice he got in Indo and says, while goofy sounding, it works. He also suggested trying them on my heelshide first, since it’s easier to make a frontside turn than a heelside turn. I’m looking forward to trying it out. All the lefts this morning kind of died out under me so I didn’t really get to throw my weight into it.

Had a beach picnic in the sun after. Super lovely afternoon.

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Struggling

2013-LM-09-27

Surf: 5.9 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 306°.

We got a late start this morning. Winds were better and waves were significantly cleaner, but it’s the same old story of closeouts into shallow water.I’m really struggling. I know it’s been an ongoing cycle of me getting better, getting lots of waves, getting clobbered, then starting over at zero, but zero is still really frustrating!

Everything I got into, I dug a rail when it got steep, but most waves I just couldn’t get into. It felt like I was in a slow motion clip of awkwardness. Snarl.

Well I got one wave in at least. But sheesh, so demoralizing!

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Left squiggle

2013-LM-09-24

Surf: 8.2 ft at 16.0 s from the W at 279°. Outgoing tide to 2.77′. Light winds.

This morning was a little bit of a long shot. The incoming swell seemed like it would be a little jumped and, sure enough, it was.

Upside was there was something rideable out there and I got to put in some practice on my heelside turns in the smaller stuff. I got that squiggly speedpump I normally do going right to work going left. That’s exciting. It was pretty much the only way to get a decent ride without a longboard today.

Moved further north for some bigger waves. Got nada. Everything had lump and bumps I couldn’t get over, then pretty much slammed shut on top of itself. Oh well. Squiggle is a good start!

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Sandblast drops

2013-LM-09-23

Surf: 3.9 ft at 11.4 s from the WNW at 291°. Low tide 2.3+. Light/offshore wind.

I hadn’t planned on surfing this morning, but went out anyway. Things were about what I expected, closed out with occasional size. I got some fun big drops followed by getting just wrecked by the inevitable closeout. One I accidentally got into a nice barrel stance before the hard stop. So much sand in my wetsuit, even with the hood on. Oh man. It came up my arms, up my legs. So much sand.

I would have liked a little more face on today’s waves, but it’s sunny and half decent. I’ll take it.