Surf: Small, low-tide.
I got there a little late (Chris is out of town and my own internal alarm clock isn’t as precisely set) so I may have missed the better waves. I also opted to avoid the crowd and went for something a little less groomed.
Glassy on the outside, boiling gurgling sloshing funk on the inside. Plenty of drops into closeouts and some soft shoulders.
Photo by Blam.
Surf: Ankle to Thigh High. Warm, sunny, calm.
Beach days are beautiful.
With the fog and the often cold mornings where I rush off to work after surfing, beach days often get overlooked. Today was a pretty brilliant beach day.
Blam and I headed up to Bolinas early. While we missed the Bolinas/Stinson Beach tug of war, we were there just in time for the parade. The whole town was out dancing and strolling about. I got a carrot from the vegetable stand boat. Yum.
Temperatures in the 90’s at the beach is pretty uncommon but welcome. We built a lovely beach hut and went out for a small wave surf. Lots of little fun splashing around but not too much in the way of surfing.
After a little while, more folks showed up and the beach hut got bigger and everyone busted out their snacks. Taka and Toshi brought some rice rolls. Robert and Vi had cheeses and fruit salad.
The weather was so beautifully warm that Stefan and I paddled out without wetsuits to meet up with Blam and Beamer. I haven’t actually surfed in a bikini before, even in Mexico. The water was a little brisk, but I managed to get a few fun rides out of the little waves. Bikini and sunglasses both stayed put.
On the way home, Blam and I got a little lost. There’s only one fork in the road and we took the wrong one. There was a beautiful lake along the way.
Came home to fireworks, sunburn, and a whole lot of stoke.
Beach days are, well, beautiful. They are pretty much everything I could ever ask for and I’m happy to have been able to enjoy this one.
Surf: Less zippy. Waist high. Crumbly.
Today was a little less pep and a lot more crowd. Got a few fun little ones but mostly enjoyed the sunshine. Forgot to snap a pic.
Surf: Waist to Shoulder high. Plenty of pep.
Crowded, thumping, looked like a mess from the lot but MAN did I have fun. Picked off some good sized waves in the Leftorium with frequent waist high waves rolling through. Plenty of waves held up on the inside right into the closed out shorebreak. WHOMP. Rest of the beach looked like Chest-Head high angry wave soup. A few people were working it for all it was worth though, saw some great rides on the occasional clean shoulder.
Other than that, friendly folks, sunshine, picnic on the beach.
Chris usually spends his weekends with his little daughters so it was quite the treat to get to hang out, eat food, play ukulele and catch up with friendly folk. Blam, Robert and Stefan were out. We ran into a german couple touring the west coast by awesome surf van. Even caught up with Ed, a guy I kooked up every wave infront of a few years ago.
Chris and I drove around and checked out the other beaches doings. Fog had socked in most of the coast below Linda Mar. Lots of happy families out enjoying the coast regardless. Nice day.
Surf: Ramping up! Started out Waist high, built to a solid Chest High groove.
Lot more fun that I thought it would be. Peely small stuff for a mellow warm up. Some drop, zip, wash stuff to round out the day. Sunny, warm, tad crowded for the morning but all around fun.
I got some solid swoopy waves that left me stoked for the coming weekend.
Surf: None.
Oh summer, you fickle season. The swell was down to pretty much nothing. I saw Sharon all by her lonesome trying to will the ocean into making waves. Someone in the lot yelled “SET WAVE!!!” as a knee high ripple wandered through.
We checked out a few other spots, not much happening. Montara, flat. Jetty, flat and junky. Decided to have a pastry, cafe went out of business. Sheesh!
Wound up eating a snack and wondering what the bottom looked like at Hey Whale (also not breaking)
At least it was a pretty morning and the storm stayed off shore. Pouring down rain later.
Surf: Crumbly, disorganized, but it’s always overhead when you’re on your belly.
Did some ding repair during the day with Blam. My 9′ is now back in action after a few weeks drying out some minor dings. I glassed over a large section of the nose that wasn’t water tight. It’s not pretty but it’s not a terrible job.
After a few hours of that, we checked out the beach. It looked ragged and I figured it was a good time to start bodysurfing.
Swimming with a handplane is a little awkward but I was stoked to catch two waves and be able to swim the whole time. I’m not the best swimmer (not awful either) and was expecting to wear out pretty fast. It certainly is hard and I was wiped out later, but happy to have hung in there as long as I did. Yay.
What they say about bodysurfing is true, sand EVERYWHERE. Full suit + hood and I still had sand in my ears.
Surf: Waist high with occasional shoulder high waves. Little bit bumpy. Low tide.
Caught plenty of long fun rides with Chris on the usual 6:30-9 shift.
Packed up, got some patries when Robert and Stefan rolled up for the 10-1 shift. Not sure this counts as a double session but the sun came up and the waves still looked pretty good. I unpacked all the gear,fought to get into my sopping wet wetsuit, and headed back out.
Not bad. Crowd up, wave frequency up, sun WAY WAY up, attitude up, wave size and relative cleanness stayed about the same.
Surf: Messy, warbly, small.
Well, it was sunny, I’ll give it that. Not too shabby. Sunny always makes things better.
Surf: Mellow, inconsistent. Knee to Thigh high at Cowells. Waist-Chest at Indicators.
Crossed our fingers hoping there’d be some waves after a very mellow, barely breaking week down south. With the low low tide there was a little something happening. Got some looooooong rides over at cowells. Not too much uumph but I did get to work on a few tiny style points.
Headed over towards the Lane to try a longboardy peak thataways for a while. Some big drops and short rides. I got one nice top turn/cutback move to stay in the pocket. Nice to feel occasionally competent!
Chris shot some video. Yay!
