Surf: 5.9 ft at 12.9 s from 170°. Low, incoming tide.
While it’s both a little too early for the Marie swell and Santa Cruz doesn’t pick up much of the super steep south, there were still some fun, clean, tasty waves this morning.
I got some real nice, long, fun-sized waves and worked on cheating my way up to the nose. While I’m not sure how successful I was, I got some really good practice working my way around sections while way up in the front. Whee.
Really nice morning.
Surf: 4.3 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 276°
Fun little waves this morning. Plenty of people but still plenty of space to share a wave. I worked on a few steps, even sharing a wave with Chris while trying to sneak up the nose a little. Sure, it was small, but there were a few that were worth getting up and driving down for 🙂
Big highlight of my morning was surfing and paddling a ton without totally wrenching my neck and shoulder. I’ve been doing physical therapy trying to get all these aches and pains under control. I was bummed to hear “stop surfing until your shoulder is better”(as well as “stop drawing”!) Naturally, have not stopped doing either of those things (with plenty of wondering “Gee, why isn’t it better?”) I’ve been doing my workouts, stretching often, and I’ve been trying to focus on my posture and my paddle form. So far, so good. I am surfing less, but I feel like having some form of activity is healthier than just laying in bed expecting a magic recovery.
Just being able to make it through a session with only minor necktweak pain is a pretty big win.
Surf: 4.9 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 312°, low tide.
I’ve been out of practice getting up and getting moving in the morning. The guys were headed to Santa Cruz for a pre-meeting surf and I rolled on to the usual spots. The tide was so low there was barely any water to surf and hardly any waves to chase down. Thankfully all I need is a little bit of room to work on my one step. Step, splash, step, splash. Now if I can just make getting up a habit again, I should be all set.
Surf: 5.9 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 310°. Low tide.
A little unexpected to be back so soon. The guys had another meeting. Smaller today and I wow was my neck hurting, but still rideable and still kinda fun. I had a little moment of surf etiquette to debate. My friend lives down in SC and was leaving the state soon for grad school. I’d told him we were surfing yesterday, but wasn’t sure if it was appropriate to call him at 4am, when I found out we were headed back, or even 6 am when we were suiting up. Around 7:30 I saw him giving me the “huh?” shrug from the cliffs. Thankfully he wasn’t mad I didn’t give him the heads up. We got a few waves and all was well. After that: breakfast!
Surf: 5.9 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 298°
Taking my new board out in Santa Cruz has been high on my list of summer goals. Today was a good morning for it. Small, clean, super chill. That board is so buttery! It swoops. I got in a few steps, too. Loving the new style. I’m going to have to work pretty hard to catch up with what the board can do, but I’m looking forward to trying. 🙂
Surf: 1.6 ft at 15.4 s from the SSW at 198°. Low tide
Oh man, so excited. I waxed the board up last night before dinner and probably woke up a dozen times thinking “is it time to surf yet?! :D” before finally getting up around 5. Time to surf time to surf!
We were the first people out. Not a soul up or down the beach. In fact, I think those dots in surfapig’s photo are probably us.
I shuffled out (stingrays!) and paddled over to a glassy, but little bit closed out peak. Tide was low, but man, we had every peak all to ourselves, warm water and a new board to try!
First off, this board paddles like a dream. Wow. Even at 9’5 doesn’t feel as big as my 9’4. It’s smooth. It’s not so bulky when trying to punch through white water. It’s really nice! Didn’t try any fancy moved on it just yet, still getting a feel for it but I’m super stoked.
AND I got to wear my neoprene jacket and shorts. Yay for warm water!
Surf: 4.9 ft at 10.8 s from the NW at 326°. Light SW winds. Outgoing tide.
Little bit smaller today with a little bit of a peak. Most waves had a fun drop, a space for a turn or two then a rough shallow inside closeout section. Managed to get to the beach around 6:30 and into the office before 9:30. Slowly starting to get back into routine.
Swish swish surf surf.
Surf: 6.9 ft at 10.0 s from the WNW at 290°. Outgoing tide. Light wind.
Finally! I’ve been slacking on the whole “get up, get out of bed, go surf, go to work” plan lately. Part of that is being injured, part of that is not wanting to get out of bed, and part of that is spring surf being junky.
There were hints at summer glass this morning. Like the ocean is almost ready to be it’s mellow, grey summer self. Still plenty of closeouts and chop, but overall not bad. Worked on a few steps. Stoked just to be getting up and moving early. 🙂
Surf: 5.9 ft at 10.0 s from the WNW at 285°. Low tide.
Still sore. The waves were a little bigger than I’d thought, so I stayed out of the pack. It was still a good spot. About half the sets had a wave or two that swung wide and I got some real fun ones. Not as much walking. The waves were really zippy and I went more for swoosh than for heading up to the nose.
The tide was so low. I got hooked up in the kelp a few times. Sploosh!
Afterward, hung around and poked at the tidepools. Lots of little hermit crabs.
Surf: 3.6 ft at 10.0 s from the W at 261°.
Went back out again. This time paddling was easier, but turning still hurt. The waves were bigger, but thankfully still pretty gentle. I was treating my neck as gingerly as possible. I did get some fun ones. The first bottom turn was hard as I could look right, but I got some fun drops.
Already 70° by 7am. Gonna be a hot one today.
