Wedge

2014-OBB-01-07

Surf: 3.3 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 268°

Had a lot of hope after the weekend surf…but no. Another frustrating session. Uff.

Surf was real wedgey today, closed out too. I dunno, it just wasn’t working for me. I got a wave, but mostly paddled around feeling in the way. Really fun watching Eduardo and all the body boarders getting some nice rides. Holy crap. That looked fun!

Still Frustrated

2014-LM-01-03

Surf: 3.3 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 266°

Today’s plan was “go back to Linda Mar, keep working on the basics.” I did get some more waves, but I’m still frustrated. I know that I’ve got a lot to learn. I remember when learning my longboard that I pretty much had to celebrate any wave I got, rather than expecting more, but it’s peen pretty hard to keep perspective. I just want to surf! Arg!

New Year

2014-OBS-01-02

Surf: 3.3 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 287°

The sunrise was extra beautiful this morning, but man, was I ever frustrated. I thought I had a plan: keep paddling. Sadly I flipped down the face of a few waves before retreating back to my usual “not paddling enough” strategy.” After that it was blown wave after blown wave. I got a little something, but was mostly miserably frustrated. Uff.

NYE morn

2013-LM-12-31

Surf: 5.6 ft at 14.8 s from the WNW at 297°

Fun little small waves this morning. Still struggling to get in to stuff (plus trying to take is easy on my sore neck.) Plenty of closeouts, but not a terrible little morning. Still feeling like I’m in a surf rut though. Hoping 2014 is a little more shredding filled.

Whiplash?

2013-LM-12-29

2013-RW-12-29

Surf: 6.6 ft at 14.8 s from the WNW at 291°

Surf was whompin this morning, but still seemed pretty surfable. I managed to get in a really fun wave full of lots of little snappy turns before hurting myself. Ugh. Again. I think a wave overextended my neck on a duck dive because I was feeling fine, then after a rough dive, I turned to go for a wave and oh man did my neck hurt. Ow ow ow.

I spent the rest of the session hesitantly trying to get another wave while not looking up.

Eventually I swapped boards with brien and got a decent one in. Spent the rest of the day in bed with an ice pack. Yeeeow. I don’t want to do that again.

Weee/brrr

2013-LM-12-10

Surf: 3.6 ft at 14.8 s from the WNW at 294°. Offshore winds.

This morning was a fun little morning! It’s been cold, but with the offshore winds it’s been worth the frosty fingers. Today had nicely shaped waves up north. I was having the usual little bit of trouble getting into waves, but figured hey, it’s pretty mellow, let’s see if I can add more and more paddles till I get something. Funny thing, it worked! I started getting a few more. It was still tricky going left since my shoulder’s still sore, but more waves is good. I really want to get more consistent on my fish and days like today are good days for getting there.

Cold fish

2013-LM-12-05

Surf: 6.9 ft at 10.0 s from the NW at 309°

Today started off a little better than yesterday. Waves were still cold cold cold, but holding up a little better. Then… I just stopped catching waves. Of course that was about the time Beamer ans his friend’s showed up. Oh well. I managed to get one in and last a long longer in the cold than I thought I would. Brr.

Cold Longboards

2013-LM-12-04

Surf: 6.6 ft at 10.0 s from the WNW at 286°

Back out there with the longboard. This morning was cold and plenty closed out, but still doable. Well, mostly. I don’t know what I was doing, but it was barely surfing. It was nice watching everyone get waves, get steamrolled by waves, and have fun, even while frozen nearly solid.

Looking good

2013-OBK-11-27

Surf: 3.6 ft at 16.0 s from the W at 275°. High tide and falling. ENE winds.

Swell had really come up from yesterday. More than I was really comfortable on my log. I really wanted to take my fish out, but missing a fin would have been about as bad as having too much board.

But it was clean and pretty, so I paddled out. The paddle out was actually pretty easy. There was the usual too soft outside, too steep inside problem to contend with, but overall I wasn’t really getting anything because of my own headgame. Uff, it’s frustrating. I don’t really like surfing ocean beach. Yeah, it’s a better shape, but sometimes it’s not that much fun. Ehh.

After getting a few poorly-surfed waves, I went further down the beach to watch the crowd surf it much better than I could. That was pretty fun. Folks were getting some really nice ones. It was also a little reassuring to see people blow waves too, it’s not just me.

Watching from the beach had the added bonus of listening to all the next-shift surfers in the dunes freaking out at how good the surf looked. After how small it’s been, people were practically skipping across great highway. 🙂 Yay for happy surfers.

Welcome back

2013-OBK-11-26

Surf: 1.6 ft at 11.4 s from the WSW at 256°. High tide and falling.

Normally when I come back from a trip, the surf is junky and miserable. It was a nice change to have small, clean waves. I tried working on some of the moves I learned in Hawaii. It was much harder on a performance log and a punchier little wave, but I got a few proper rides in. Swoosh swoosh step step back swoosh. Whee. I also launched myself in the air pretty good. Yeee.