Tag: dawn patrol

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Friday Morning

2013-HIODH-11-22

Surf: 2.0 ft at 11.1 s from the SSW at 214°

Got a quick surf in before having to return the longboards to Surf Garage (thank you, Surf Garage!) Still nice and smooth, but with a little less punch. With the longboards, we were cruising. Lots of fun lil waves. A guy in the lineup joked about how were were getting all the waves and asked when were heading to work so the old guys could get a few. I wound up getting a super nice left while working on my stance. Yew. Starting to figure out this stuff.

These boards were pretty fun. Nice and stable for walking around, but a solid belly for quick turns. I didn’t want to give them back!

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Thursday Morning

2013-HIOQ-11-21

Surf: 1.6 ft at 11.8 s from the S at 190°. High tide.

Up early for more Waikiki waves. Got up, grabbed our gear off the balcony, and headed down to the beach. With the high tide, things were a bit mushy, but still pretty fun. Swissh swissshhhh.

Unfortunately post-session we returned our gear to the balcony and discovered the car was gone. The hotel towed it. Ooops. A quick uber and a couple hundred bucks later and we were back in business.

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Wednesday Morning

2013-HIODH-11-20

Surf: 2.0 ft at 13.3 s from the S at 179°. High Tide.

I’ll admit, checking the surf forecast religiously before this trip, I was worried there’d be no swell. South shore was showing flat. North shore was showing flat (well, alternating flat and like 20ft which I’m not sure I’d even be able to watch without nearly drowning.) So it was a very pleasant surprise to roll up to the break this morning and see waves! Lots of waves! 😀

Lots of people, but lots of waves!

So far I’ve found people to be pretty considerate, there’s enough waves to go around and everyone’s been really friendly. The one thing I did find odd was no one moves. If you’re going for a wave, no one will move out of your line. I think part of that is that the majority of the lineup is way better than the majority of the lineup at home, so it’s expected that you will be skilled enough to go around. Why should people give up their spot when you could avoid them on your own? I’m not sure. It’s a little unnerving watching people paddle for a wave so close together, but didn’t see anyone collide.

It’s so nice to surf warm peaks and really nice to watch other people surf. There are some amazing longboarders out here.

Surfed and surfed and surfed and then got Açaí bowls. 😀

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Fog and rocks

2013-OBKC-11-13a

Surf: 3.3 ft at 9.1 s from the W at 262°

More fog and more car-pooling this morning. Things were looking pretty sloppy when we pulled up, but got a hair cleaner as the morning went on. The waves were still a little chunky. Closeouts mixed with longer rides mixed with steep drops into mushout. Other than being in the wrong spot half the time (not sure which closeout to go for) it was a nice enough morning.

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Small waves

2013-LM-11-12

Surf: 3.3 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 264°

Fun little waves today! We only had a chance for a quick pre-meeting surf, but the waves were small, frequent, and lined up just right that I could practice my cross step a bit. Super super fun. I managed to ride most of one way on one foot, ha. I got stuck trying to cross step, started to step back, then decided “nah, I can step forward” and started to go forward again before changing my mind again. 🙂

Nice to get some real practice in.

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Surfmobile

2013-LM-11-08a

Surf: 4.3 ft at 13.8 s from the WNW at 284°

The morning started out with heavy fog in the city, but beautiful sun down at Linda Mar. Surf was a little smaller, but still decent.

The surfmobile died on the way back. Big cloud of smoke going back up highway 1, then it barfed out oil on the 280. Hung out on the side of the freeway waiting for a tow.

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Fun loggy morning

2013-LM-11-06

Surf: 6.2 ft at 14.8 s from the W at 279°.

Hooo boy, that was fun. That was a much better combo of longboard + waves. Got some decent size for fun swooping ling rides, but not so much size or whomp that it wasn’t fun on the longboard. Although there was a little bit of crowd navigation, there were lots and lots of waves. Man, I needed that. The rest of the day was tough, but at least I got a few waves.

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Even more frustrated

2013-OBP-11-01

Surf: 4.3 ft at 12.1 s from the NW at 304°

After being frustrated on my fish, I decided to take my log out. All of the forecasts suggested small waves. I should have checked the buoys because it was not small at all. Uff. For the most part, the thrashing wasn’t that bad. Being inside for a few waves I expected to be brutal, wasn’t too bad. I was getting frustrated not really getting any waves. I got a few drops into a closeout, but nothing really fun. Towards the end I got pretty wrecked. I had a wave where I just wasn’t coming up and wasn’t coming up. The big old log was dragging me in the worst part of the inside to get drug in. I had to really stop and remind myself not to gasp and suck in water. Not fun.

I paddled back out, hoping to redeem myself, but wound up dropping on on someone. I figured between being sick and being tired, I should cut myself some slack and head in. Ugg. Not fun. I could really use a win on the surfy front before hawaii. :\

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Frustrated

2013-LM-10-29a

Surf: 4.6 ft at 11.4 s from the NW at 309°. High tide. Light winds.

Oh MAN. So frustrated today. Waves were a little soft with the tide, but come on. I just couldn’t get going. I managed to pick off some quick-dying shoulders but nothing FUN. Then on top of that, I had more than a few people take off without looking nearly right on top of me. Uff. Ufffff. I think I might need to take my longboard out for the rest of the week. I need a win.

At least there was a friendly note on my car to cheer me up.

2013-LM-10-29b

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Make up surf

2013-OBK-10-26a

Surf: 3.3 ft at 10.8 s from the W at 273°. High tide. Light wind.

That’s more like it. Clean conditions, light wind. Much better. Of course, I was still surfing terribly, but hey, we’re halfway there. I struggled for ages to find a good spot since the waves were a little soft and the crowd was a little tricky. Eventually the tide eased off and I had a better time snagging the inside waves for a few fun rides.

Afterwards did a little sketching.

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