Surfing while I can


Surf: 5.3 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 282°

I tried to pack in as many mornings as I could this week. I know the rain will be back and I know work will pick up again. It’s been hard to get out!

Thankfully we had a relatively uncrowded corner this morning to work with. If I’m only going to get out once and a while, having space to catch all the waves I can is pretty nice. Like yesterday, there were plenty of closeouts and like yesterday there were a few gems. I’m just so happy to be out that it doesn’t matter if I’m kicking out right away. Getting in the water is better than getting to my desk early.



Surf: 4.3 ft at 14.8 s from the W at 274°

This morning there were pink puffy floating over San Francisco in celebration of Valentines day. The surf was a little more closed out than I’d expected. Chris and I picked a northerly corner to work away at. Most of the waves closed out right away, but there were a few gems in there. I saw Chris get what started out as a great looking one, right in the spot. Then the whole wave just hucked right over into the shallows. Ahh well. Sweet tart candy hearts. <3

Back from the East Coast


Surf: 4.3 ft at 13.8 s from the WNW at 282°.

Whew. I had a whirlwind weekend! My little brother had a baby and I zipped out to meet him. It was fun but I was beat. I got a little sleep in and tried to fit a little surf in before the rains moved on in again.

The waves were a little funky and the only spot that was really working called for a behind-the peak take off that was tough given the crowd, but I’ll take what I can get.

Around the end of the session a guy paddled over and said “You’re getting some good ones! I’m copying your style. Not sure it’s working for me…” then a little while later I saw him get a nice one. “It’s working, it’s working!” It seems like folks were in good spirits today. I’m glad to be back.



Surf: 6.6 ft at 16.0 s from the WNW at 302°

The new year is off to a plenty busy start. In order to get it all one, I had to take advantage of New Year’s Day observed. Got a quick, chilly, kinda funky, overly occupied surf in. Things were a little seasick from yesterday’s winds and occassionally whomping with the incoming swell. I got a wave or two that almost worked, then headed off to do errands and get all my new year planning in before starting work tomorrow. Whew.


Beach to SFO



Surf: 4.9 ft at 21.1 s from the W at 268°. Outgoing. Light offshore.

Still brisk out there, but not as cold. This morning I wanted to get one more surf in before heading east for the holidays. I’m so glad I did.

The buoys were suggesting swell might show, but with the exception of a cleanup wave or two, things were smaller than yesterday. Same swift current, but same punchy little left, too but with a few less people than Sunday. I got in some fun ones.

The suit kept me warm enough and, when combines with some toasty warm wool socks, I was able to go straight from the beach to SFO. Well, not straight. We stopped for donuts. But within a few hours, I’d traded cold beach for snow and weather in the teens. Glad I had these couple of surf sessions to practice being chilly.

Happy Holidays, all!



Surf: 5.6 ft at 12.1 s from the WNW at 289°. Outgoing. Offshore.

Yeeeehew that was brisk. Offshire winds ahead of a big rainstorm + a cold spell + lots of waiting + a wetsuit with a few dozen holes = chilly chilly chilly. The wavecount today was pretty low and I was paddling and paddling to stay in place, but there were some fun ones out there. Wish I’d have gotten it on a better tide, but got at least a wave or two I thought was pretty punchy and good for zipping through the crowd.

Veterans Day


Surf: 8.2 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 297°

This week has been a bit busy, and a bit too big and wild to surf. After the election and work, it was nice to have a medium sized surf session. It was crowded and closed out, but there were still plenty of fun waves. I felt like I was surfing sloppily, but somehow making it work. Lots of wobbling into a wave, lots of having to cut back for the closeout. It was a nice day. I hope we have some more nice days in between the big, threatening swells.

More reasonable


Surf: 6.9 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 287°

Today was better. Still large, but not quite as beefy. There was a bit more beach open to surf, so we surfed it. Nice to see folks out.


Favorite Winds


Surf: 4.9 ft at 12.1 s from the W at 281°. Incoming. Winds out of the S.

Yeeeew that was fun. If there’s only one thing this beach does well, it’s these conditions.

I brought a board and an extra suit for Boris. We got down to the lot before the sun was even up. I’m always nervous taking friends who don’t surf around here. I want it to be fun and easy. I knew the winds would be blowing, but it was hard to tell if the suf would be big and closed out, or fun. I could see the little peelers even in the dark. YESSSSS.

I found myself a nice right and surfed and surfed and surfed. I snapped my leash string, I surfed to hard. As I was threading a new one, waves were just rolling in. Oh man, it was hard to be patient and get the new string in when all I wanted to do was get back out there.

Once I had my leash back on, I paddled out again. It was a beast to stay in place and totally worth the paddle. Oh man was that right fun. It had some steep drops but the wind keep things open and all I had to do was hold on and trim. It was a blast. Great for walking up, great for swooping along. Yeeeeee.

Boris had a good time, too! He and Chris wound up all the way at the north end and it sounded like there were plenty of waves up there.

It sounds like we’ll have a pretty active storm season this winter. I hope we get more days like this.



Pre-storm Grey


Surf: 3.3 ft at 13.3 s from the W at 269°. High tide.

Today was a little funkier than yesterday, but still fun, still plenty workable.  I got a couple I was pretty happy about and it was fun watching other frield folks make the most of the morning. It’s always tricky when there’s swell forecasted. Some people get antsy wondering why the big waves aren’t here yet. Me, I’m happy to have a nice, glassy-enough morning. Especially considering how sore I am. Man am I out of shape. 4 surf sessions, couple of Pilates workouts, and a couple concerts and I’m beat. My arms were sore, my lats were sore, even my legs were sore.

There’s rain coming. Hopefully I’ll be back to normal by the time it’s over. I’d love a few more mornings like the last few before the big winter swells arrive.