Surf: Waist-Chest high. Little bit of texture. No winds.
Big moonrise and a big new fin for my 7’0. I had it set up as a quad, but was oversteering most of my waves. I thought I’d give a singlefin a go.
I didn’t notice too much of a difference. I’m still have trouble catching waves on this board. Thinking about fins might be getting ahead of myself for now.
Surf: 11.8 ft at 16.0 s from the WNW at 287°
Big, messy waves up and down the coast this morning. Watched the show from shore.
Photo by Chris
Surf: 4-6ft with some 7+ standouts. Soft. Little bit of texture. Little wind.
Oh MAN was that fun!
I caught a handful of big long waves and watched the sun come up from the water. The tide was high so we were sitting way outside to get into the big softies early instead of the steeper shorter inside waves. With the long lulls and the softness, it seemed like ages before I got my first wave.
That first one was a beeeeeaut tho. Dropping in all I could see was a wall of deep purple. Swooping up for my top turn, the orange gold peeked over the lip. It was quiet. Just me, the wind, and swooping turn after swooping turn. Amazing. The wave was well over my head. Maybe 7? 8?
I got a handful more waves like that, each one a little less purple and a little more gold as the sun came up.
I learned a group of cormorants is called a flight. Fun and educational surf. Superstoked!
Surf: Shoulder High, closed out.
Maybe I’ve been working too late, but I miss last winter’s sandbars. This morning was mostly closed out with some occasional waves. Long lulls and two solid rides, but mostly disorganized closeouts.
Found myself later in the day thinking about last year. Those two sandbars lined up SO well damn nearly every single day last winter. There have certainly been some fun days out there this year, but so far it hasn’t lived up to the glassy peeling chest-shoulder high glory I remember.
Maybe my nostalgia hoodie is on a little too tight?
I’m sure after two weeks in Indiana I’ll be happy just to be in the water. 🙂
Surf: Start – Waist High, Finish – Head high. Clean, lully.
Yay, another mellow Ocean Beach day! Or at least a day that looked like it was going to be mellow…
Paddling out the waves were very mellow. Waist high sets would roll through with some frequency but the paddle was relatively easy. After a few waves, it was pretty evident that the size was increasing.
I’ve been pretty lucky my last few times out at Ocean Beach. I’ve been out on mellow days with low to no current and an easy paddle. Today was a bit harder. I had at least two paddles back to the lineup that must have taken at least 20-30 minutes. It may not seem like very long compared to the 45 minute paddles most folks do on bigger days, but on my longboard unable to duck dive it was a lot of punching, pushback, punching, paddling, pushback, etc etc.
I was really starting to appreciate those lulls. Whew.
I got some pretty dang fun waves today. Lots of big drops, long rides, and swooping turns. I got one big one on the outside that was quite a drop. There was a moment when I was screaming down the line that I realized all the shortboarders on the inside were looking at me with some very wide eyes. I’m sure it was a mix of “that girl on the longboard is going to run me over” and “I am about to take a pretty big wave on the head.” I hope I did everything right to not embarrass myself. I made my drop, I didn’t run anyone over, and I almost made it to the shoulder after a few tentative turns.
After a few more lovely waves, I decided to go for another big one. I was way too deep. I fell out of the air, attempted to still land, bit it, then went over the falls with my longboard. Oww. I managed to whack my forearm and my shin on the rail pretty good while swashing around, but hey, I didn’t “lose” my board I guess.
I paddled back out to shake it off before getting a super fun right all the way to the beach. Fun fun.
Surf: Waist-Chest High, smooth, and super mellow. 4′ @ 10s, NW.
I love mellow days at Ocean Beach. I get to surf with folks I don’t normally get to surf with and the change of scenery is nice.
With the high tide things were pretty soft. I had a few embarrassing moments paddling out and paddling for waves. I’m still huffing and puffing from being sick and I”m always nervous at Ocean Beach since I don’t normally surf there. After a few blown waves, I got into a much better groove.
Stoooooked. I got a few nice drops followed by long swooping rides. Beautiful morning too!
Surf: Low tide, low wind, little bit messy. WH-CH.
Nice sunrise and better than expected conditions given the tide and how lousy conditions had been lately. Still not that great. Lots of closeouts. I got a wave or two that counted 1) as a wave and 2) as fun. CAn’t beat that big pink sky tho. Wow!
Surf: WH-HH and alternating between soft and hollow. 6′ @ 14s, NW.
Holy Holiday Heros. With rain, howling offshores, and some good size I wasn’t expecting to see so many people in the water. Chris was kind enough to help a guy with his wetsuit on inside out as he chased his finless, waxless board across the parking lot. Poor guy was getting in the water for the first time…on a dumping head high day. Yikes.
In all honesty, I’m not really one to talk. I was out there coughing and sneezing and feeling miserable. I should have stayed home too. I wussed out on quite a few waves but snagged a pretty fun ride or two.
There were some beaut little barrels rolling through, but all and all a bleak friday.
Surf: WH-CH and a little zippy.
Ahh, learning a shorter board. I know I’ve got to put in my time and pay my dues, but blowing waves is noooo fun.
I got one really nice wave off the bat that made me feel plenty competent. After that, it was kook kook kook. I blew the takeoff on TWO solid waves that were set up right for me. Argh! Watching those beauties peel on by without me was heartbreaking. To add injury to insult, I managed to cut my foot getting closed out on by another wave. Yeowch.
Well, gotta keep at it!
Surf: Waist-Chest High. Mushy to closed out.
It’s starting to get a little chilly in the morning! I’ve been getting excited thinking about sandbars, emptier lineups, and cleaner conditions. Ahh.
Today wasn’t exactly one of those days tho. Not bad, but days where waves are either crazy mushy or crazy closed out can be tricky. Short rides and wash. Not terrible.
