Tag: dawn patrol

Surf: Chest-Head High, little bit rough.

Bigger surf means taking hoping all night that my favorite spot is working. While big and a little bit stompy on the lower tide, it was working well enough for a few fun waves.

I got two long rides that left me stoked, then called it a day. Big thanks to the guy who saw me eat it dropping into a closeout and flashed me a big smile when paddled I back out. I’m glad someone enjoyed the performance. 😀

I managed one nice big ride in before calling it a day. The same guy laughing after I wiped out gave me a big “nice last wave!” when I was packing up in the lot. Wooohooo fun lump morning.

Surf: Waist-shoulder high and warbly.

Emotional minicoaster this morning. Paddling out I saw Hugh nail a really nice peeling lovely waist+ high right. Aww yeah! Expectations were up! Then I paddled around in the warbleness for a bit wondering if that wave was the only one. There were some thumping larger closeouts and some weird wrapping confusing lefterly rights. I wasn’t quite sure what to make of things.

There was a very very long lull and I was sure things were shut down for sure. Out of the blue it bumped to a lovely 45 min of organized, fun, beautiful waves.

Very stoked after that 45 min.

Surf: Chest- Shoulder high. Little textured with some whompin closeouts.

I got there late and stood in the fog watching closeout after closeout. There were big booms from somewhere I couldn’t see and a hugh pack huddled up in the place I could see. Slowly the fog lifted and around the time the morning shift was packing it up, a Fog Bow appeared. What was closeoutcity fogfest became sunny prettyworkableville. There was some size out there for sure, things swung wildly between waist high and just above shoulder high. There were still plenty of closeouts but also a good bit of fun. I have lots of sand in my ears, but overall happy with the morning.

Surf: Waist-Shoulder high. Little closed out. Slightly offshore/sideshore.

Beautiful morning. Dramatic fog, sunshine, all that. Lots and lots of seabirds flying about.

The surf was a bit closed out in the morning, but for every two or three drop and wash monster there was something with a bit of a face. It looked like the later shift got the best of the morning. I watched lots of noserides and swooping turns as I suited up.

There’s some potential out there for some beautiful fall mornings headed our way. Trying not to get my hopes too high but it would be nice to see things clean up! 😀

Surf: Waistish, junky, warbly and orange.

My first thought was UGH. Junky, onshore winds, red tide.
My second thought was “I’ve surfed worse.”
After paddling out I thought UGH again.

A few warbly waves in, it seemed not so bad. Took a lot of work to keep in trim and it certainly wasn’t pretty, but it was possible to link everything up and get some long rides out of the not so exciting looking soup.

Closing thought: “Well that wasn’t AWFUL” 😀

Surf: Waist-Shoulder and fairly closed out.

Yay! After a month+ out of the water. Chris is back. What a day to come back for tho. Ooof.

I’d forgotten what it was like to squeeze lemonade out of stone cold closeouts. Hooooo ouch. There were makeable open face rides hidden away in the wash, but it was still a lot of thumping, grumping, and fog. Everything from Shoulder High closeout to Waist High mushjunker. As I left, it looked like more tide was helping with the close-out problem, but swamping things entirely.

Surf: Waist high, a few standouts. Little junky.

What a moon this morning! Plenty beautiful sky, but the surf was not terrible clean. Waves were rideable and all around not bad. Hopefully things will clean up with some of the new fall swells.

Surf: Thigh to Waist high. Clean. Slow.

My 7’0 is in the shop, and my 9’4 had a ding I’ve been meaning to repair. With new swell supposedly on it’s way, I grabbed my 9’0 and headed down to the beach.

As I unzipped my bag, I had the sinking realization that before I’d sent the 9′ to Alex for a bunch of work I had stripped all the wax. Stripped all the wax and not put any back on.

Crap.

I found myself standing in the lot with a very smooth and shiny board gleaming back at me. There was no way I was going to turn around and head home. I dug half a bar of wax out of my bag and spread that little lump of wax as thin as I could trying to cover the board.

I wore the wax down to a tiny tiny nub, but it worked.

The first half of the session the tide was too high and things were slow and plodding. The second half, things picked up. Kinda fun to see what I’ve started to learn on the quad translating to a try fin. I managed a few tighter cutbacks digging in.

Not an epic day for sure, but happy to have made it work.

Surf: Thigh High, clean.

Fall is here. Warm temps, lower winds, lovely mornings.

Plenty crowded out there though. Wow. 2 waves in and my board was dinged crashing into a dude dropping in. Thankfully no one was hurt, but I wasn’t ready to get out of the water just yet.

After a few too many close calls, I headed up north to throw myself into some closeouts. I got a few waves that made me feel slightly more competent on the 7′ (which I badly needed after the earlier tangle up.)

Nice to have the warm weather.