Tag: dawn patrol

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Backwards Waves

Surf: Waist-Shoulder high. Backwards. Closed out.

Ahh, physics. Physics does not always do what you think it will, or what you want it to, or even really what it should. Today it was reflecting waves pretty strongly off the beach, jacking up waves into steep closeouts left and right.

Every time I get a little air on a longboard it tends to be accompanied by a considerable amount of surprise. Usually me getting air on a 9’4 means something weird is going on.

Today’s surprising air move was brought to you by me catching an outgoing wave while paddling out, ramping the incoming closeout at pretty good speed, and launching myself back into the lineup. If you wanted exciting, ungraceful chest high waves, they were out there.

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Pre-Labor Day Crowd

Surf: Waist-Shoulder high. Little crowded. Long lulls.

Got a couple chest high waves that left me stoked (especially the one I had all to myself, crowded out there today). Wandered to a less crowded peak for some shoulder high drop and wash. Mostly wash. It was sunny and decent enough. I’m happy. Def “fair”

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Cross Stepping

Photo by Chris

Surf: Waist-Chest High.

Patient logging this am in the patient logging spots with some cruising long rides. Practiced some cross stepping to the tune of Faceplant Sonata. Hope the late morning shift had fun.

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Bumpy

Surf: Bumpy. Waist-Shoulder high.

Little windy, little bumpy, plenty crumbly with the typical amount of closeouts and wash. Waist range with a few chest high waves. Rideable, but more suited for the desperado temperament. I had fun, saw other people have fun, but you may very well not have had fun.

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Skunked

Surf: Chest-Shoulder, funky and dumping.

Ahh, there was the skunking I’d expected. Oww.

This little board doesn’t have the heft to punch through waves paddling out, but I haven’t gotten the hang of ducking it (it’s pretty big.) So I took wave after wave on the head. At one point I was pretty sure a seabird was laughing at me as I got hucked over and over. Sigh.

Wound up spending a lot of this morning on the bottom of the sea contemplating life and how I was going to get the sand out of my ears later. (“Never” might be the answer to the ears question.) SUPER funky, jumbled, but with some rideable shoulders that jacked into booming closeouts. C

hris got some cruising big ones. I mostly got wash. Wind not as blustery as other spots I checked, but waves not any cleaner. Sigh.

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Paces

Surf: Funky Chest-Shoulder High.

I paddled out expecting to get skunked on my stubby. I actually got a few, if ungraceful waves. I feel like I’m getting in to them too late so I keep dropping then kicking right out when I could probably stand to hang in there a little longer.

Got some fun fun wipeouts too. Oww. Went for a pretty good one, got in, then tried to sneak out before it came down on my head. Skidded my turn, went flying and skipped like a freaking stone for a good 4 impacts before finally going under. Uffle.

It’s going to take a little bit to get competent on this board, but so far two days of okay starts!

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Birthday Bo!

Surf: Small, clean, knee-thigh high waves.

Plenty small and foggy this morning. Thigh high set waves that slowly got a little glassier and held up a little better. Certainly not epic, but all I was looking to do was help my little bro catch some waves so I was pretty happy.

For a while the lineup consisted of G noseriding every little peeler that came along, my bro stoked as he caught some fun mellow waves, and me trying out a 7’0 stubby surfboard I got last week. Not bad.

Afterwards Wes and I hung out on the beach a little, saw a (dead) little leopard shark, and then drove north to wander around Pt Reyes a while. It was a beautiful day. Can’t think of a better way to spend my birthday than with family at the beach.

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High Expectations

Surf: Knee-Waist Hight, junkier.

I kinda had my hopes up after yesterday. I mean, yesterday had some size, some peak shaped things…it wasn’t too much of a stretch to hope for that for today. Having that hope meant I was a little bummed by the less than hoped for conditions. Oh well.

I got one proper wave that made my morning and I got to spend the session with a rainbow overhead.

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Modest, but fun.

Surf: Waist to Shoulder High. Slightly offshore.

Lots of drop and wash closeouts, but the faces that held up were pretty nice. Little bit of offshore breeze slowly started to clean things up. There are certainly some good sized sets out there. There was a lot more energy than I’d expected. It’s still modest, but was fun.

Got a few SH waves that had some pretty nice pep. I love zooming on past on a good sized wave with a log. 😀

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Knee high rollers, Crowds

Surf: Knee high and clean working up to chest high and crowded.

I rolled up a little late and cruised around looking for Chris and looking for waves. It was super mellow. I found Chris in a group of loggers picking up some lovely little rolling waves. Wheee. Plenty fun. Nice calm morning with friend folks around.

As the little left started to run out of steam, we headed north of some larger waves. It was surprisingly crowded with lots of unfamiliar faces. Pretty zippy waves up there. Not too shabby.