Tag: dawn patrol

Surf: Started out closed out, Chest high or so. Cleaned up and mellowed out. Waist-Chest.

Avoided the crowds by picking a spot further up north. It was kinda bumpy and closed out, but with a few fun drop and run rides. Things slowly started to clean up and the SUPs came out in full force. With the soupy inside I spent a lot of time shifting around to different rips trying to find the sweet spot. Sun was out, not bad.

Surf: Sloppy, waist high. Lemony.

I had fun doing some left like leftings, but there was a long debate between lefty leftings and napping in my car till it was time to go to work. It was a step above desperado but a step below fair.

There was a lot of fruit on the beach today. Oranges, a watermelon, and another melon. Weird!

Surf: Waist-Shoulder high, cleanish.

It’s funny how different parts of the beach can be some days. Today the North was large and crumbly. Norther surfers complained of poor quality waves and closeouts.

Got some fair plus quality action in the Carolinas before picking up a few pretty fun ones in southern Georgia.

There were a few large waves moving through from time to time. I got a real fun one for my first wave down south. It was a late drop and I was sure it was going to come down on my head. Plenty of zip and vigor on that one. Lots of lefty rail grabbing. Whee.

Sun. A rainbow. A little bit of traffic, but overall def fair plussing in. I was plenty happy with the waves I got. 😀

Surf: Shoulder-Head high. Little crowded and disorganized looking at the start.

The waves that held up were pretty solid. I had a few that were lovely. One was a little bit of a wolf in wave’s clothing. Got some nice swooping turns in, went to kickout and got spun pretty good. Hoooo. I think the crowd must have all come in the same car. I got a wave, paddled back out and everyone was gone.

Plenty of drop and wash with some solid shoulders here and there. Nice sun. Warm. Fishy. The birds were having quite the party waves on the outside.

Surf: Knee-Waist high. A chest high wave or two. Clean, clear.

Very happy to have my big longboard back in action. Smooth paddling into mellow little waves under warm sun. Nice nice nice.
Def on the small side, but I’ll take it. Spent some time at the north end working on little waves and splitting peaks with some boogie boarders. Would love to have stayed out longer.

Took the long way in to the office and did some drive by spot checks. The mellowness meant the smaller spots weren’t breaking at all, but some typically whomping SMOT spots looked loggy.

Surf: Waist-Chest. Soft.

It was soft out there, but catchable. I got a handful of okay rides. Sun was out. Aaron was out after a long time out of the water with a shoulder injury. Size came coming up slowly but not the big pulse everyone had been twitching in anticipation for. Low expectations were helpful.

Saw nicoleslaw get a nice one. Woot.

No pastries.

Surf: Small, low-tide.

I got there a little late (Chris is out of town and my own internal alarm clock isn’t as precisely set) so I may have missed the better waves. I also opted to avoid the crowd and went for something a little less groomed.

Glassy on the outside, boiling gurgling sloshing funk on the inside. Plenty of drops into closeouts and some soft shoulders.

Surf: Ramping up! Started out Waist high, built to a solid Chest High groove.

Lot more fun that I thought it would be. Peely small stuff for a mellow warm up. Some drop, zip, wash stuff to round out the day. Sunny, warm, tad crowded for the morning but all around fun.

I got some solid swoopy waves that left me stoked for the coming weekend.