Tag: dawn patrol

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Little South Winds

Surf: Knee-Chest High. Peeling. Soft but pretty fun.

Finally! My work schedule and the wind schedule aligned for a morning surf back at Lindy. Sooo much nicer than that first Saturday back. Those pre-rain south winds were lazily grooming the waves into fun little shoulders and the mellow swell was making bowling little bits and mini barrels.

One guy I was talking to was working on getting barreled. I tried for a little head dip, not quite close enough to the curl but still plenty fun. Wheeee.

Out before the rain.

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South Swell, Whales, and Hot Chocolate


Photo by Chris

Surf: Waist-Chest high. Peeling. Long lulls but lots of energy.

Nice south swell rolled in this week. Cowells was breaking sooo nicely. It was crowded for sure, but plenty fun. Got some nice long waves that really zipped on the outside and held up all the way through. Plenty of otters chilling in the lineup and a whale splashing around outside the kelp. Grabbed some hot chocolate, a pastry, and cruised on in to work.

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Welcome back, SC


Photo by Chris

Surf: Mellow, Knee-Waist high. Glassy.

Ahh, back in cold water. Missing Mexico with all my heart but still feels good to be home. Surf was super mellow with long lulls. Got some nice little rides in.

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Monday in Mexico – Early am

Surf: Knee-Waist high, glassy.

It’s still pretty much impossible to sleep. Even surfing three sessions yesterday I was still so excited to get back out onto an empty break with peeling waves and friends.

When the sun finally came up, I raced back out. Robert and I picked up lots of fun, sleepy little waves. Pretty much the best way to start the day.

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Sunday in Mexico – Early am

Surf: Knee-Waist High, Glassy.

EEEEEEEEE! Waking up in Mexico!!!

I barely slept. I could hear the waves all night. Whenever a set would roll through I’d wake up and think “is the sun up yet? is it time to surf yet?!” 😀

I woke up just after 7 and watched the waves hoping someone else would wake up. It didn’t take too long for my stoke to get the better of me and I paddled out anyway. It was so glassy I could see the fish moving about. It was a little spooky. A couple fish bumped the bottom of my board, but I’d forget about it when the chill little sets would start to come in.

Other folks made it out after a wave or two. Eeeeeeee!! We’re in Mexico!

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Stoked!


Photo by Chris.

Surf: Fun, glassy, 2-4ft with some bigger sets. Mellow.

What a morning! I’m still stoked.

Went in with low expectations. Higher tide, forecasts were all suggesting conditions would be “just okay.” Still, happy to get a change to surf Santa Cruz before work.

It turned out to be a really fun session. The waves were clean and had a nice little kick to them. Bright warm sun, blue blue water, and long peeling waves.

My first wave started out mellow and medium sized. As I completed my bottom turn I realized I was looking up at the lip. My mellow warm up wave was turning out to be a nice, peeling, substantial wave. So stoked. So much fun.

Got quite a few nice rides and some compliments from my friends. Spent the whole day beaming. Stoked!

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Sunny, Peeling, Out of the Wind

Surf: Knee-Waist high. Peeling.

Three years ago to the day I took my first surf class. 😀

I was one of those surf school kooks with the red rashguard on to warn people to keep a safe distance. Crazy to think that was 3 years ago. Thankfully those 3 years have been filled with lots of stoke, many great rides, lots of wipeouts, and fun people to surf with.

Lindy was not observing my surfbirthday and instead was a jumbled, howling wind mess. Headed down to the jetty in favor of small, fun little waves. Got some good little rides, some sunshine, and a little fun before heading to a client meeting. Yay.

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Board Meeting

Surf: 1-2ft and 2-4ft. Mellow SW swell. Light Winds.

One of the projects I’m on involves frequent trips south of San Francisco and another needed me to swing by Palo Alto today. It’s been a negative low tide and nearly flat locally the last few days, time for some pre-work team surf in SC. 😀

Nicole, Chris and I paddled out at the Cowells side of indicators where Darren had already been catching a few of the small slow waves occasionally rolling in.

I got some nice long ones on the super mellow little waves, but the crowd was growing and the guys had their eye on some waves further west.

Paddled over to find the break to be still mellow, but bigger and with a punch at the end. I got a few really fun drops and enjoyed the sun.

Pastries, then off to client meetings. Excellent team work.

Meeting summary: Fun, chill waves were ridden.
Next steps: schedule more team board meetings.

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Fog

Surf: Soft 2-3ft waves. Low low LOW tide.

Woke up terribly late, but managed to get down just in time for a few fogged in waves. I couldn’t see the lineup from my car. I couldn’t see the water’s edge from my car. I couldn’t see the lineup from the beach, or the beach from the lineup. Super moody.

Plenty of fun little waves despite the crazy low tide. Drifted a full tour of half the beach in the fog.

Chris got to try out the new big board today. Man is that a big board.

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Cleaning up

Surf: Cleaner, 2-4ft.

It’s been so windblown and meh here that it was really nice to see a “clean” day. Not perfect, sure, but rideable. I got lots of fun drops in, cheating some closeouts a little.

Little bit of sun and some light offshores. A bunch of balloons floated by.

Chris’s delamed board finally gave in to entropy and crunched under a larger cleanup wave. Poor board. Cut the session short.