Surf: 7.9 Feet @ 14.8 Seconds 294º West NW
Plenty fun in the usual place. Lots of long left lines. Had to work a little harder today. Vs curent and vs softer waves.
I’d been bringing christmas cookies to the lot since getting back. For the most part it’s just been me and Chris mowing through them. Finally got around to distributing them a little better, handing a few off to Andrew.
Hopefully I’ll get around to making another batch.
Surf: Waist-Shoulder high. 6.9 Feet @ 16 Seconds from the NW 310º
Hello 2011. You greet me with sunshine, a beautiful pink sky, and froggies singing in the marsh. Some pretty fun waves in the usual spot we’ve been so fortunate to enjoy this winter. Plenty of current and a little crowd to keep people on their toes.
Surf: Fun, cold, somewhat inconsistent. Waist High to Head+. Crowded. NNW 330º 6.9 Feet at 11.4 Seconds
Plenty of long rides and big drops today.
What a year. I’ve enjoyed some very bright moments (having work again, getting into a more consistent dawn patrol habit, that nice working left we’ve had all winter) and I’ve had some tough times.
I started this little surf site to share my experiences learning how to surf with my family back home, mainly my grandmother. When she passed away in June, I was very tempted to let the site go. I missed her terribly and somehow taking quick pictures of the surf felt a little empty.
Looking back on all my pictures, it’s nice to have the memories. I remember calling my grandmother and telling her about this surf day or that one. I like having the record too, even if it is silly.
I’m looking forward to a few things on 2011. I try not to be too specific, I like to enjoy the good things as they come and not get too hung up on expectations.
Here’s to all the good things, good people, and good waves of 2010. Remember them all fondly and forever. Here’s wishing many good things for 2011.
Surf: Inconsistent 2-4ft+ waves. Lots of closeouts. 306º Northwest 7.5 ft @ 11.4 sec
Decent swell coming in, offshore winds, icy cold spray…seemed like it should have been a pretty good day. Other spots were breaking nicely, but Linda Mar just wasn’t taking it well. Got a few waves, some fun drops, but not real long rides and plenty of sloshing around. Nice to have the sun out for a change.
Had to cut things short to take at work call. Yay for mobile phones and headsets. Sat on the beach for over an hour watching things clean up a little. Saw a few people get some nice little rides and a few people get demolished.
Surf: Plenty unruly for most of the beach. Mellow and crumbly waist-chest high for the other part of the beach. 294º WNW 8.9 ft @ 12.1 sec
I never know what board to bring when it’s on the bigger side at Linda Mar. It could be big, clean, and racy. If it is, I’d rather have my 9. Not as much foam makes it easier to handle on the inside, but it’s still a big board to get into the waves farther out where they are softer.
If it’s unruly for most of the beach, but soft and mellow down south, my big glidey 9’4 is lots of fun. Plenty of foam to get into waves and swoosh around. Yay.
I brought my 9’4 and swooshed around in some crumbly surf. Got a few fun ones in with friendly folks tucked just out of the way of the unruliness.
Surf: Small, very mellow, clean. 289º WNW 4.9 Feet @ 9.1 Seconds
Brr. I wind up staying out WAY longer on slow small days. I don’t realize how much time passes while I’m bobbing about looking for waves.
I got a few, wanted a few more, and surfed till I was too cold and tired to move. Lots of other longboarders out there goofing off in the little waves. Fancy footwork, noserides, friendly chatter.
I went home and buried myself under blankets till I thawed out.
Surf: Knee-Waist high. Fairly clean, some lulls.
Snuck out for some mid-day waves. Pretty small and mellow. Spent the session goofing off on the board, practicing some walking up and standing tall. Got a few long little ones. Stayed out a bit too long and didn’t have time to grab a pic before I had to race back to the city. Ahh well.
Seems it’s time for a haircut. Got my hair wrapped around my arm on a wipeout. Ouch.
Surf: 3-4ft. Not as clean, but still working well. 6.2 ft @ 13.8 sec – 316º Northwest
Friday! Much like Wednesday, but not as clean and a little unruly on the inside. And by unruly I mean “it’s totally that wave’s fault for being so fun on the inside, letting me hurl myself into the shorebreak.”
I had more than one kickout rejected by the the steeper inside. Toss! Ouch, ouch.
Got plenty of fun, loooong rides with some room to walk around. I’m a sequel fangirl now.
Surf: Waist-Shoulder high, clean. 3.9 ft @ 10s, 300º WNW
I like days that I assume will be average days and turn out to be really fun. Days like Wednesdays.
Pretty crowded out there, but there were lots of nice long waves. I had plenty of time to walk around my board a bit and practice some super mellow little cutbacks.
Surf: Knee-Waist High. Racy and clean.
Brrr rrrrr. Woke up early to thick frost on my car. Back in the days of winterization and 4 wheel drive I wouldn’t have flinched. My little civic has worn out summer wipers so at 5:30something am I had a board in on hand and a scraper in the other.
At only around 37F at the beach, it was certainly what I’d call chilly. My fingertips were numb before I even got down to the water.
Thankfully the cold kept most people away and we had fun zippy small waves to ourselves. The sun kept me just warm enough. After a few hours I was happy if not a little but frozen around the edges. Yay.
