Surf: Chest-Head High, little bit rough.
Bigger surf means taking hoping all night that my favorite spot is working. While big and a little bit stompy on the lower tide, it was working well enough for a few fun waves.
I got two long rides that left me stoked, then called it a day. Big thanks to the guy who saw me eat it dropping into a closeout and flashed me a big smile when paddled I back out. I’m glad someone enjoyed the performance. 😀
I managed one nice big ride in before calling it a day. The same guy laughing after I wiped out gave me a big “nice last wave!” when I was packing up in the lot. Wooohooo fun lump morning.