Cold waves, old wetsuit

Swell: 4.9ft at 16 sec from WNW Wind: 13mph from E Tide: Low 1.2ft at 08:36 AM Temp: Air 46.9F / Water: 50.2F

Cold, clean morning. The waves looked good but there was still plenty of waiting. Not as easy to catch and a little closed out with the tide.

I realized too late that I’d left my nice 5/4 at Chris’s so I wound up paddling out with my old 4/3 that’s busted through in the elbows and a leash with a knot in it. I surfed about like you’d think someone wearing a busted wetsuit with a janky leash would surf. I was a mess out there.

I had one wave where I didn’t quite get in, was able to add an extra paddle to get some time on the face, but by the time I did I was nearly to the sand.

Sadly my best wave for the day was the one where I dropped in on Bjorn. I think there was room enough to share, but I still like to give everyone their last waves in in peace!

Have a good time in MX, morning crew!

Unexpectedly seasonal

Surf: 3.6 ft at 7.7 s from the WNW at 302°. Outgoing tide. Onshore, rising winds.

It’s been in the 70’s all week. Beautiful weather. Offshore winds. Then poof, the day I can make it out it goes back to cold and onshore. Still, I can’t pass up a beachy sunday with Chris and the girls.

I caught 2 waves before deciding it wasn’t worth burning out my shoulder. It wasn’t unridable. Naturally the sun came out right as we left. Ahh well. Next time.

Small and Sunny

Surf: 2.5ft @ 8s from the WNW at 301°. Incoming/High. Light offshore.

74° and sunny today. With that kind of beautiful weather and today’s slow, small waves, each peak was shoulder to shoulder. There were a few near misses. I had two guys crash into each other dropping in on me, but amazingly I made it around them, even wish crouching down to deflect a board. Whew! Despite all that people were pretty friendly and smiling.

The wind kept the waves open just enough for some long, fun rides.

Dolphins stopped by. A Navy helicopter checked us out. Not bad. I’ve been needing these small days to get back out there without overdoing it and today was a good day for it.

Beautiful weather and closeouts.

Surf: 3.6 ft at 6.7 s from the WNW at 303°. Rapidly outgoing tide. Light offshore.
The tide was rapidly going out and most of the waves were slamming shut in the shallows, but what a nice day to be out at the beach. I had a couple where the wind worked with me and the wave managed to keep just enough face that it seemed like a real ride.
I shared a wave with Little G. She’s starting to get the hang of her soft top! Happy to party wave with that kiddo any time.


Surf: 6.1ft @ 15s from the WNW At 293°

Very overdue first surf of the new year. Chilly, offshore, and a little wave or two with these characters.

I have a ton on journaling debt to catch up on. If you actually read this thing: I’m sorry. In the mean time: hoping to get in as much surf as I can. 🙂

Happy new year!

Small hopes of getting back in shape


Surf: 3.3 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 292°. Low tide.

I’ve got my summer surf trip coming up and, like every year before this one, I have barely been able to make it out to surf. I’m out of shape and I know it. The surf did not look grood this morning but you got to paddle out to get in shape so I padddled out.

Not bad. There were a few waves in the low-tide mix. And the wind wasn’t awful. Hopefully the waves on my trip will be forgiving because I’m going to be the noodle arm queen out there! >_<

Back at Sea Level


Surf: 4.3 ft at 14.8 s from the SW at 220°. Low tide.

I spent the last week in Colorado far from the ocean and 5,000+ feet above sea level. It was fun. I hadn’t ridden a horse in 20 years so chasing after cattle in the Pawnee National Grasslands was quite the adventure.

Still, by the end of the week, I was missing the coast and missing surfing.

Conditions this morning weren’t great. I don’t have time these days to go hunting for a better swell angle or a beach that takes the tide better. I just have to paddle out and into whatever I can.

There were a few gems. I got a step or two in and some fun cutbacks. I was glad to be out.

I really wish I was able to get out more often, especially ahead of my big San Onofre surf trip. I miss seeing friends in the water.

Taking a chance


Surf:  5.9 ft at 7.1 s from the WNW at 293°.

I wasn’t sure about this morning: winds looked high at the buoy, it was a short period swell, and the tide was kinda high… but I’m glad I gave it a shot.

There were a few corners working. Small, but pretty decent. The current was booking and one spot proved challenging enough to stay on that I had the whole peak to myself. I didn’t expect that on a nice day.

It’s been a challenge getting in the water lately. Work. Stress. Travel. I almost didn’t go out for those two reasons alone. I’m glad I did.

Once this month


Surf: 3.9 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 285°. Low tide. Light winds.

This morning had everything going against it. Small, short period swell, low tide, and a little bit of a WSW breeze. It did, however, have one very important thing going for it and that’s the fact that I’ve been out of the water ALL MONTH. Today was my one shot to surf so I took it.

The rest of the month was a mix of challenges (got sick, had lots of work,) and fun things (got to spend some time with my baby nephew!) and rain, all of which kept me out of the water. It happens.

The surf was objectively not great, but it was rideable enough to claim a real live wave or two. Otherwise it was all closeouts, current, and trying to make the most of things that almost looked like waves.

Even lower expectations!


Surf: 4.3 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 272°

More wind, slightly mixed up swell, lots of reasons to sleep in this morning. Thankfully I got up and got out there. Between the conference and the rain, I’m not sure when I’ll get back out. There were plenty of litte rides here and there and surprisingly good spirits for a Friday.