Saturday, November 7th, 2009
Big Nasty Swell
Some big waves moved in to our area Friday night. Buoys spiked to 30ft and a lot of folks were on edge wondering if the waves were going to come in clean and rideable or big and scary.
It was big and scary.
I met up with Tom in front of Wise. We walked around North Ocean Beach and the Cliff House, gawking at waves there. There were waves breaking so far out ir was unbelievable. We cruised on down to Sloat, Rockaway, and finally Linda Mar waiting for Josh to wrap up his session at Half Moon Bay.
Rockaway was, well, hurling rocks:
There was one lone dude out there. He was holding his own, I didn’t see him get stomped but wow. He was a tiny dot surrounded by big angry waves.
Linda Mar wasn’t as big as projected, but still looked rough. A handful of people were out getting waves.
I stayed nice and dry. Had lovely brunch at the Cliff House instead.
1 Comment » - Posted in thinking about surfing by Tracey
Friday, October 2nd, 2009
Shortboard Dawn Patrol at Ocean Beach
Surf: 3-5 ft. waist to head high and poor-fair conditions.
This morning’s dawn patrol: Slightly jumbled, crossed-up peaks on offer this morning. Looking a bit more disorganized than yesterday, with a few rideable corners still making it through at times.
I have never surfed on a shortboard and I have never surfed at Ocean Beach. Shortboards are harder to paddle, harder to catch waves with, but when you’ve got them you can tear up waves. You can also duck dive with a shortboard (swim under an oncoming wave with the board instead of paddling over). Duck diving comes in very handy at a place like Ocean Beach where the waves are bigger, more powerful, and take a lot more paddling to get through.
I’m on a smaller, harder to paddle board facing bigger, more powerful waves. Fantastic idea right there in the works!
Cryptomail gave me some pointers on duck diving and waited patiently as I failed at it over and over. I didn’t manage to paddle out past the breaking waves. I did catch one wave boogie board style, but spent most of the morning under water or falling off the board. I need a lot of practice before I stop looking like a flailing wet mess and look more like a surfer. Ha.