Once this month


Surf: 3.9 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 285°. Low tide. Light winds.

This morning had everything going against it. Small, short period swell, low tide, and a little bit of a WSW breeze. It did, however, have one very important thing going for it and that’s the fact that I’ve been out of the water ALL MONTH. Today was my one shot to surf so I took it.

The rest of the month was a mix of challenges (got sick, had lots of work,) and fun things (got to spend some time with my baby nephew!) and rain, all of which kept me out of the water. It happens.

The surf was objectively not great, but it was rideable enough to claim a real live wave or two. Otherwise it was all closeouts, current, and trying to make the most of things that almost looked like waves.