Cold waves, old wetsuit

Swell: 4.9ft at 16 sec from WNW Wind: 13mph from E Tide: Low 1.2ft at 08:36 AM Temp: Air 46.9F / Water: 50.2F

Cold, clean morning. The waves looked good but there was still plenty of waiting. Not as easy to catch and a little closed out with the tide.

I realized too late that I’d left my nice 5/4 at Chris’s so I wound up paddling out with my old 4/3 that’s busted through in the elbows and a leash with a knot in it. I surfed about like you’d think someone wearing a busted wetsuit with a janky leash would surf. I was a mess out there.

I had one wave where I didn’t quite get in, was able to add an extra paddle to get some time on the face, but by the time I did I was nearly to the sand.

Sadly my best wave for the day was the one where I dropped in on Bjorn. I think there was room enough to share, but I still like to give everyone their last waves in in peace!

Have a good time in MX, morning crew!