Surf: 2.6 ft at 5.0 s from the WNW at 290°
Much cleaner today. And there was sun! Nice! Waves were a little small and soft, but with the longboard I was able to get a fun ride or two. Always nice seeing everyone out, goofing off. I like good surf, but I also like surf that no one takes too seriously.
Surf: 2 ft at 8 s from the WNW at 304° and 2 ft at 13 s from the SSW at 208°.
I’m not entirely sure why I’ve gone out every day this week, but hey, he’s another kind terrible surf session! At least this one I got plenty of waves. They were short, weird, and FULL of sea sludge, but very occasionally, fun. 🙂
There was a bird dive bomb session as a shoal of fish came into the shallows. All ways cool to watch, but creepy to be in the middle of. Yipes.
Surf: 3.3 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 291°
While I did get a few rides in, this morning’s surf was plenty lousy. The wind was up, the swell was mixed, everything was pretty closed out. I took out my 7′ quad and did managed so sneak in a nice long one. I always forget how hard it is to duck that board and sure enough, I smacked myself in the head with it…again. I also managed to bruise the crap out of my hand. No idea how that one happened.
In the lot a guy said “Is it as bad out there as it looks?” and I said “Yes, yes it is” but he paddled out anyway. Nice to know I’m not the only desperado foolish enough to try it.
Surf: 4.3 ft at 10.0 s from the W at 281°.
After yesterdays slight success, I was hoping for a wave or two more. Sadly, it was more closed out. Drop and wash only. I made the most of it and swooped into a few before launching right back out again. Was really hoping for some kind of shoulder, but no dice.
Surf: 4.6 ft at 10.8 s from the WNW at 283°
After Friday’s poor showing, I was hoping to make it up to myself with a log session. Of course, my usual spot was doing the same thing as the beach: mushing until closing out as good sized shorebreak. Crap. It’s probably too late in the year to say this, but I think the dry winter left us with crummy sandbars. Everything is coming straight in and dumping.
I wussed out of plenty for most of the morning, before finally getting in a decent groove. I got one solid, real wave out of all the closeouts, and a few lemonade rides that were fun enough. My one nice ride was fast, swooping, and fun. I cheered a little. Unfortunately it was too much and we were surrounded by people shortly.
Better than expected for a holiday. Happy to take a break from all the cleaning to get in the water.
Surf: 3.3 ft at 14.8 s from the S at 185° and 2.6 ft at 11.4 s from the WNW at 286°
I have a feeling this season will be a lot of “you should have been here yesterday.” Thursday I was too beat and busy to get out and of course, it was glassy. Small but from the cams and the first hand accounts, it was SMOOTH. Couple of folks said it was so glassy you could see the wake off the tankers rolling up the beach.
Today was not that day. Today was mixed up, closed out, and next to zero visibility. I was really struggling on my fish. It was too soft to get in, too closed out to get a solid ride. Ugh. I paddled around in circles getting frustrated before going in for breakfast. Pretty fun belly ride in at least. (shrug)
Surf: 1.0 ft at 13.8 s from the SW at 226°. Outgoing. 3-6kn winds.
That was so much more fun than I’d expected. It was still small and kind of terrible, but the winds were lighter than the forecast and the little waves were a bit cleaner and more frequent than I thought I’d find given the forecast.
I took my 9′ which managed to hang on to plenty of lumpy shoulders. The biggest thing it was doing well was being maneuverable paddling back out. I forget how thin that board is. It’s nice to be able to slice it through waves on the paddle out.
There was the typical small wave drop-in contests and laugh riots from the usual crew as well as plenty of excitement from the sea life. Dolphins, porpoises, AND sea lions jumping left and right. A big bull surfaced near us with a salmon in it’s jaws. He thrashed around a while, ripping big chunks out of the fish. Pretty cool to watch, if you don’t mind the unease of having a 700lb creature thrashing within arms length. Another big guy decided he wanted to surf for a while, so the drop in contest had to be put on hold.
All and all, not a bad morning.
Surf: 2.0 ft at 10.0 s from the W at 275°.
We looked everywhere this morning. Most breaks were completely flat and what wasn’t flat was pretty junky. We managed to surf a little bit of shorebreak that wasn’t too horrible. I got a wave or two that might have been a real wave. The rest was wash and warble and mush.
Saw a pod of dolphins cruise by with their little ones in tow.
Surf: 3.3 ft at 9.1 s from the W at 278°
The swell was a little smaller today, but the crowd was just the same. Yikes. I managed to sneak in a few long rides and plenty of drop-and-closeout, but man. It’s so many people and so many soft tops. Not a pretty sight. I’m looking forward to the cold weather. Nothing like a frosty morning to win a little elbow room. 🙂
Surf: 3.6 ft at 10.8 s from the NW at 316°. Light winds.
I tried to pull off a “surf before going to an all day professional conference” move this morning. I’m not sure it worked. Chris picked me up on the way to the beach, but all and all it was a really narrow window of about an hour to catch some waves.
Waves were decent sized and holding up nicely, but holy crap was it crowded. I’d sort of hoped the new parking permits would discourage a few of the more casual surfers, but no. The lineup was swamped. Lots of people not looking where they were going on top of it.
I got half a wave heading in to check on Chris who’d broken another leash string, but other than that I didn’t really get anywhere. It was super frustrating. :\
Oh well. At least the workshops for my conference weren’t half bad.
