Tag: dawn patrol

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Monday

2013-OBP-09-16

Surf: 3.3 ft at 14.8 s from the WSW at 242°. Incoming tide. Light winds.

The wind forecast has been all over the place lately. We took a chance on it being wrong and scored some ruffled, mushy, but forgiving morning waves. I heard plenty of “you should have been here yesterday,” but it was fun enough.

The 9’4 > 6’4 switch is still tripping me up. The first hour and a half I was struggling. Switching between the two I’m in the wrong spot or I blow my takeoffs. Eventually, I managed to sneak one in and finally get into a little bit of a groove.

I had two nice long ones (with some turns, whew) and quite a few drop and mush waves. Managed to get a nice long inside wave all the way in to the beach. Lots of work to keep that little wave going. Hop hop hop. Pretty fun kooky morning.

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Awful.

2013-MT-09-13

Surf: 3.3 ft at 12.9 s from the W at 275° and 3.9 ft at 13.8 s from the SSW at 206°. Windy.

I’m not entirely sure why I went out today. I’m guessing because I missed out on yesterday’s waves? It’s been the kind of season where if I don’t go, it’s decent and if I do, it’s windy.

I’m also not sure why I paddled out into this mess either. It was too big, too messy. It was just awful. Paddled around in the soup for 30 min, then bellied in for donuts very disappointed.

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Bodysurf day

2013-LM-09-11

Surf: 2.3 ft at 13.8 s from the SSW at 195° and 2.6 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 323°.

The surf was plenty small this morning. We surfed the knee-waist high shorebreak for a little while. I got a few wiggly fish rides that were kind of like surfing. Plenty of fun, although nothing impressive.

After a while, we swapped out for fins and grabbed a little peak to bodysurf on. This was probably some of the best bodysurf waves I think I’ve gotten. Mostly because I rarely bodysurf and absolutely because I’m terrible at it. But this time, I actually got in to waves and went somewhere. Woooooh. That was fun.

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Offshore/Shorebreak

2013-MT-09-10

Surf: 3.6 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 319°. Offshore winds (S).

Lindy was looking might flat so we kept hunting. While our alternative spot was looking mighty nice, it was also breaking very far inside pretty much on to the sand.

If there’s one thing I’m not fond of, it’s shallow water. Uff.

I watched folks get lovely rides, kicking out before the shorebreak whomp, but I just could not get into anything to save my life. I was struggling and struggling.

I got into a few, lined up with the face, and got swallowed whole by the close out a few seconds later. Ouch.

One upside of the morning, Chris mentioned that I”m getting pretty speedy on my orangefish. That’s a big change from feeling like I was paddling in slow motion when I started out on it. Zip zip zip. Now I just gotta commit to my waves instead of backing out cause it’s too shallow/closed out/blue/excuse of the day.

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Surf Sunday

2013-OBP-09-08

Surf: 4.6 ft at 8.3 s from the NW at 322°.

Paddled out int he very dimmest of the morning light. I’m not fond of the low visibility + ocean beach combo. Add jumping baitfish to that mix and you basically have me paddling around whimpering inside my own head like a big wuss.

Still, it WAS nice to get a few waves in with the guys before the rest of the beach showed up to get theirs.

I got a few fun ones, but between me being sorely out of practice on my fish and me being a scaredy-scaredy cat, I didn’t really get anything GOOD. I know I can do better than just cruising down the face till the whole thing closes out.

It was fun to watch the other folks get some nice ones and great to see a few folks I haven’t in a while.

At one point a small group of dolphins zipped by right below me and surfed the wave as it broke off to my left. Wow.

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Sunny Morning

2013-OBP-09-06

Surf: 2.6 ft at 5.0 s from the WNW at 290°

Much cleaner today. And there was sun! Nice! Waves were a little small and soft, but with the longboard I was able to get a fun ride or two. Always nice seeing everyone out, goofing off. I like good surf, but I also like surf that no one takes too seriously.

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Sloshy

2013-LM-09-05

Surf: 2 ft at 8 s from the WNW at 304° and 2 ft at 13 s from the SSW at 208°.

I’m not entirely sure why I’ve gone out every day this week, but hey, he’s another kind terrible surf session! At least this one I got plenty of waves. They were short, weird, and FULL of sea sludge, but very occasionally, fun. 🙂

There was a bird dive bomb session as a shoal of fish came into the shallows. All ways cool to watch, but creepy to be in the middle of. Yipes.

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Not great

2013-OBS-09-04

Surf: 3.3 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 291°

While I did get a few rides in, this morning’s surf was plenty lousy. The wind was up, the swell was mixed, everything was pretty closed out. I took out my 7′ quad and did managed so sneak in a nice long one. I always forget how hard it is to duck that board and sure enough, I smacked myself in the head with it…again. I also managed to bruise the crap out of my hand. No idea how that one happened.

In the lot a guy said “Is it as bad out there as it looks?” and I said “Yes, yes it is” but he paddled out anyway. Nice to know I’m not the only desperado foolish enough to try it.

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Solo closeouts

2013-LM-09-03

Surf: 4.3 ft at 10.0 s from the W at 281°.

After yesterdays slight success, I was hoping for a wave or two more. Sadly, it was more closed out. Drop and wash only. I made the most of it and swooped into a few before launching right back out again. Was really hoping for some kind of shoulder, but no dice.

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Labor Day Closeouts

2013-LM-09-02

Surf: 4.6 ft at 10.8 s from the WNW at 283°

After Friday’s poor showing, I was hoping to make it up to myself with a log session. Of course, my usual spot was doing the same thing as the beach: mushing until closing out as good sized shorebreak. Crap. It’s probably too late in the year to say this, but I think the dry winter left us with crummy sandbars. Everything is coming straight in and dumping.

I wussed out of plenty for most of the morning, before finally getting in a decent groove. I got one solid, real wave out of all the closeouts, and a few lemonade rides that were fun enough. My one nice ride was fast, swooping, and fun. I cheered a little. Unfortunately it was too much and we were surrounded by people shortly.

Better than expected for a holiday. Happy to take a break from all the cleaning to get in the water.