Tag: pacifica

Posted on

Sunday

Surf: 6.2 ft at 10.8 s from the NW at 314°. Incoming tide.

Still plenty of swell and it was even a little less closed out. My favorite spot was a zoo of grumpy people so I didn’t get the same cruising fun as yesterday. With more peaks to choose from, it was easy to move north and find somewhere new. Had a pretty fun morning, but man, my shoulders and neck are a mess after this weekend’s run of surf. I’m not sure if it’s tension from the size and from the crowds, or if I’m just sore. Oooch. Might take tomorrow off jus in case.

Posted on

Swell

Surf: 10.2 ft at 12.1 s from the WNW at 289°. Incoming. Light winds.

It’s been so nice and small and glassy at the beach all week. I was surprised to roll up and see head high closeouts shaking the beach and sending boards flying at every angle. I almost didn’t paddle out. I though ugh, no way. It’s crowded, it’s big, it’s whompsville.

Thankfully CG encouraged me to give it a shot. My favorite little corner of the beach turned out to be an absolute blast. The wind was hitting it just right to keep things open for long cheater 5s and a little cross step practice. I did not get whomped. I managed a decent time with the crowd. It was a beautiful morning. 😀

Posted on

Monday

Surf: 4.9 ft at 10.0 s from the NW at 324°

The surf was pretty small today, but at least it was clean. I had a few moments where it was just three of us out on a little peak, making the most of the waves on offer. It was fun, but it was a lot of waiting. More and more people paddled out and it became harder to make something work. That’s ok, I headed in to work at a decent time instead.

Posted on

Funky

  
Surf: 4ft @ 7s from the WNW at 309°. High tide. 

If yesterday was weird, today was pretty funky. Way more doubled up and a lot less clean, but still decent enough. I got a few zippy, walkable rights right off the bat. Plenty of sloshing around underwater that makes me think fall is here. Weird “the wave is only breaking the the rip” problems that make me think fall is not yet here. 

Posted on

Thursday

  
Surf: 3′ @ 6s from the WNW at 303°. High tide. Light local winds. 12 mph at the buoy. 

I had some pretty low expectations for today. The weekend was really fun and the winds out at sea were blowing. I figured it would be a mess at the beach. 

It was actually pretty rideable! The morning started out clean but a little inconsistent. As the tide rolled in, the waves got weirder, but there were more of them. I shuffled way up on some inside sections. Not bad out there. 

Posted on

Beach day with Tahoe

2015-LM-09-19a

2015-LM-09-19b

2015-LM-09-19c

Surf: 4.6 ft at 7.1 s from the NW at 314°

Beach day! 😀

It’s hot this weekend so we hit the beach for the Big Chill Out with Lindsay and her dog Tahoe. Tahoe is a total beach dog. Loud horn from the contest? No problem! Lots of other dogs and people? No problem! Plenty of waves to jump through? He couldn’t get enough.

The contest was fun to watch and I got a few fun waves of my own off on the sidelines. Lots of fancy footwork and moves from the other surfers. Folks bringing their A game for the contest.

Spent the rest of the afternoon laying around on the sand, eating snacks 😀

Posted on

Fog!

2015-LM-09-10

Surf: 3.9 ft at 16.0 s from the SSW at 193°.

The morning started totally socked in with fog. We’ve been in a heatwave and wow, is this grey morning ever welcome. This is the summer I’ve missed. Grey, glassy mornings with mellow little waves and an easy paddle. The swell slowed down a bit, but there was still a little bit of a wave here and there to get some practice in. Hoping for more glassy, grey mornings ahead.

Posted on

Pink

2015-LM-09-09

Surf: 3.6 ft at 16.0 s from the SSW at 204°

Wow, the ocean was so glassy and pink this morning to match the amazing sunrise. The waves were small, but super smooth. I got in a little cross stepping practice and even found a few lefts were I could really get the rail in and hang way out on the nose all the way into the last closed-out section. Fun fun.

Posted on

Labor Day

2015-LM-09-07

Surf: 5.6 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 302°

All long weekend long! Woohoo, got in lots of surf and outdoor time this weekend so I’m super stoked. The weather’s been hot and, even though the waves have been closed out, it’s still pretty surfable and fun. I got a few big swooping waves. Pretty fun weekend!

Posted on

Weekend Whomp

2015-LM-09-06

Surf: 5.9 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 306°.

Yesss, made it out Sunday, too.

Today made me realize how easy I’ve had it easy all summer. Lots of little waves, plenty of easy rips, and things that could almost be called sandbars. Now it’s all whomp and stomp. I got a workout for a change. Maybe one or two real waves. I’m working on my cutback kickouts, so a whomping wave isn’t all bad. Plus, when I screw it up I really go flying 😉