Surf: 4.9 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 297°
Sure feels good to get a 4 session run in. Yew. Sure, it’s small waves and yeah it’s been a little crowded, but just being able to get up 4 days in a row and surf without doing my shoulders in has been a real treat. Lots of good cruising, lots of swooping and swooshing. Pretty stoked on my little week.
Surf: 5.6 ft at 14.8 s from the WNW at 284°
Wheee, another fun, cruisey morning. Still small, but nice seeing friendly folks and less crowd. Swooping and swooshing along. Watched Chris paddle the beach and back, too. I’m not up for that just yet, but it was fun watching him blast around. The guy can paddle, that’s for sure!
Surf: 3.6 ft at 12.1 s from the W at 272°
Still cruisey, a hair cleaner, and pretty fun for the logs.
Surf: 4.3 ft at 12.1 s from the WSW at 253°
The surf was pretty small and lumpy this morning, but man, this board can really make the most of it. I worked on some cutbacks and hunted down quite a few small mushy ones. Hoping to take another class with Ashley some time to really learn how to use this board.
Surf: 5.6 ft at 16.0 s from the WNW 286°. Low tide.
I spent the better part of last week sick in bed so when Friday rolled around I was pretty excited to get out of the house and get into the water. Really excited. Like, sit in the dark and wait for enough light to see if the surf is even rideable excited. 😀
It looked right up my alley: small, mellow, and peeling(-ish, I mean, it’s still Pacifica.)
Yup, fun. Lots of cruising, turning, working on some moves. Lots of wishing everyone a happy new year. Lots of catching up with folks I haven’t seen in ages.
And yes, I stretched before and after, just like I’d resolved to.
Surf: 11.2 ft at 17.4 s from the WNW at 293°
Yay for rain! These winter storms have been slowly chipping away at our drought. It’s great for the water table, not great for water quality. It was pretty lucky to have both my shoulder stamina and a window from the line to line up.
Pretty fun waves out there, too. Really, it was nice just to get up, get going, and catch a few waves. I had fun swooshing around, did a little shuffling up, and mostly avoided getting knocked around until the very last wave. I’d forgotten what it was like to sit in my favorite corner of the beach watching the huge mountains of water roll by out at sea. Wow.
You could see the clouds shifting out over the ocean too. The storm coming should be a pretty good one!
Surf: 2.6 ft at 12.1 s from the W at 277°
Paddled back out for some pre-feast exercise. Still closed out, but with a wave or two in the mix. The good news is yesterday’s paddle out didn’t make my neck any worse, sadly it still hurts. Aches and pains aside, the sun was beautiful, the water wasn’t super cold, and I watched Chris get a great long wave, dodging all the sections, traffic, and weird warbles. Good pre-stuffing stuff.
Surf: 5.3 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 285°. Low and incoming.
I had a bit of a setback in physical therapy progress over the weekend. Saturday I spent about 45 minutes or so drawing, went about my day, went to sleep at a normal time and, when I woke up Sunday, I couldn’t sit up to get out of bed. Arg. It’s frustrating. I was making good progress, but now I feel like I’m back near the starting line. Driving to PT on Tuesday, I passed a couple cars loaded up with boards and thought, well, I guess this is just going to hurt, wether I baby it or not.
Of course, when I was thinking “Screw it, I’ll just paddle out” I was still hoping the waves would be gentle and not teeth rattling closeouts, but ahh well. The little waves stayed open and were actually a little fun, but everything else was a rough ride straight down. I saw someone buckle their soft top! Yeesh.
But hey, sun was out, got wet, and got a donut.
Surf: 5.3 ft at 10.0 s from the W at 280°. High tide.
After the weeks’s success on a shorter board, I was both excited to get back out, but also hoping to take it a little easy. My shoulders were a bit sore and I didn’t want to push them too far. Sadly the surf did not cooperate. The tide was very high and the shorebreak was a sloshing mess. About halfway out I was feeling that sharp pain in my neck again so I turned around and bellied in.
It was disappointing, sure, but I did get some swim time in.
Surf: 4.6 ft at 10.8 s from the W at 273°
Experiment, part 2. After surfing my face off yesterday, I decided to push my luck and try the hull again. The waves were a little messier and much more grey, but the first wave I got was worth paddling out for. Wow was that a good one. Good size, the hull did all it’s hull magic and rubber-banded it’s way through turn after turn. I even nailed a kickout, whee.
Fun morning. I was a bit sore after, that might have been a little too much hull-time, but hopefully it’s a sign of improvement. I really want to get back out and get surfing again!
