Tag: pacifica

Surf: 7.6 ft at 11.4 s from the NW at 306°. SW winds. Rising tide.

Drug myself out of bed this morning hoping to make up for Tuesday’s disastrous surf while still full expecting frustration and slop as the result. Thankfully the usual spot was serving up somewhat unusual breaks in the closeout party.

With the exception of Tuesday, it’s been really nice to have my longboard out lately. It was nice to get into waves early, cruise past lumps and warbles, and have the weight to plow through incoming waves.

Sunshine, a rainbow, some birds. All kinds of good stuff this morning.

Surf: 7.9 ft at 14.8 s from the W at 279°

Hooo. Crowded out there today. I’m not sure I’ve seen so many beginner shortboarders trying to get in to shallow water closeouts.

With the longboard I was able to squeeze plenty of rides out of the whompfest, but not without a face full of sand and silt here and there. Plus banging around into my board.

Around the end of the session there was a moment when there wasn’t a single wave in sight. Everything turned into a mixed up wash. Huh. I tried to belly in but there were just so many people in thigh deep water on the inside. Oookay. I suppose you could surf there if you really wanted.

Paddled up a little further to an empty spot to take one in.

Surf: 6.2 ft at 13.8 s from the W at 267°

Today looked absolutely awful, but was super fun to surf. It’s always funny how that happens.

Took the longboard out for plenty of swoop and step practice. Sure it was sloppy, but it was workable and a few of us were working it. There were a couple gals (one on a log and one on a mid length) tearing it up. I got a few hoots and comments, too. It was a totally unexpected morning, given how it looked.

Of course this is only fueling my belief that I can only surf when the surf is crap 😉

Surf: 8.5 ft at 16.0 s from the W at 271°

I think this is the most like a wave I’ve seen the usual spot be in ages. Of course, that made for some exciting crowding. It always amazes me when it’s only a light crowd, but that crowd is always getting itself in trouble. Sigh.

Ah well, I got some waves, didn’t run anyone over (not for their lack of trying), AND got some sunshine. Yay.

Surf: 9.8 ft at 12.9 s from the W at 261°

Brought my fish out this morning. Unfortunately waves were sectiony and lumpy and all around not that fun. Got a couple waves, but nothing terribly exciting. One day of many in the struggle to figure out this shortboard stuff. But hey, cool sky!

Surf: 4.6 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 268°. High Tide.

Not as groomed and smooth as last week, but still a fun little morning of logging. Saw plenty of friendly folks. Water seemed clean enough. Did a lot of delayed pop ups into grab rail hand drag loggy stunts. Not terribly much else. 🙂

Surf: 3.0 ft at 12.9 s from the WSW at 256°

This winter has been plenty of those big, east wind, bright sun days with hardly a south wind rainy surf in sight. The drought finally let up with this latest rainstorm. I snuck out to get a few waves before the real rain started and the water mucked up.

Smooth grey waves and hardly anyone out. I couldn’t have asked for a better morning.

Today was one of those days where I feel like I actually do know how to surf. I took out the log knowing it would be a small wave day and got just the swoopingiest fastest smoothest rides. 😀 Fun fun.

I couldn’t resist taking a peek at the cams later. Here’s me working on a heelside cross step on a little wave. Wheeee.