Tag: pacifica

Surf: 5.9 ft at 14.8 s from the W at 265°

After yesterday’s whompfest turned into better waves than expected, I had a few hopes today would be the same. It wasn’t. I ducked and ducked and ducked and said ehhh screw it, I’m going south instead.

Waves were plenty closed out, but, after struggling for a good long while, I did manage to actually surf some waves. I’m okay only getting a few waves, so long as those waves are competently surfed. Also nice to see a few friends in the water that I hadn’t seen for a while.

Surf: 6.9 ft at 14.8 s from the W at 272°

Much sloppier than it’s been lately. I was having trouble deciding where to be. A little north: whompfest. A little south: junksville. It was getting a little crowded for whomps so I tried my luck with junk.

No luck.

Eventually I paddled back to whomps and, it was surprisingly less whompy! I got a wave right away! Annnnd it was time to go in. : |

That was frustrating. Even getting a decent wave, I was still feeling like I’d wasted the opportunity to get better. Donuts helped.

Surf: 7.2 ft at 14.8 s from the W at 277°

Started out this morning surfing my favorite little spot. I got waves! Slow ones, ones that didn’t always make the section, but a good start! Once that spot got too crowded, we moved north. That was frustratingly fast. I struggled quite a bit, I tumbled around with the board. But, all and all, I wasn’t super frustrated, which was nice.

Surf: 3.3 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 287°

Whew, back on the upswing.

Got Sigmund’s 7’0 back to Aaron and met up with him out in the water. The waves were back to a reasonable size and there was plenty of sun and water to go around.

Big achievement for the day, going consistently left on a bunch of waves. I’ve been struggling with my lefts since I put my neck out last time, but today was a breeze.

Luke got a shot of me and cg surfing, sort of, since the gopro faces backwards. I’m a little dot, but there’s half a second of me splashing a bit of spray.

Surf: 6.6 ft at 13.8 s from the W at 279°

More closed out than yesterday. Still a little crowded. Sort of feeling like I was back to square one as far as not really getting into anything. I did get one decent ride, so there’s that. 🙂

Surf: 7.2 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 293°.

Less wind, less size, and more crowds today, but also more waves! Yesss. No cutbacks today, but I’ll take quantity if I can get it. Wheee. I had a lot more luck getting into waves later, and stealing more face than I thought any of these waves would allow. There were some fast ones, and some lumpy wobbily ones, but all and all, surfed. Whew.

Surf: 8.5 ft at 11.4 s from the WNW at 296°. High tide. ENE Winds.

I may have only snagged two waves today, but they were both actual waves. Bottom turns, top turns, cutbacks, nice long rides. Whew. It’s nice to know that once I get up, I can surf at least a little bit.

Surf: 6.9 ft at 12.9 s from the W at 270°. High tide.

The wind is up and the surf is junky, but that’s probably the best I’ve surfed all week. I’m so confused. Maybe I can only surf when the surf is lousy? It’s a possibility.

Got some nice long rides,cutbacks even. Not bad for a pretty junky day.

Surf: 3.3 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 266°

Today’s plan was “go back to Linda Mar, keep working on the basics.” I did get some more waves, but I’m still frustrated. I know that I’ve got a lot to learn. I remember when learning my longboard that I pretty much had to celebrate any wave I got, rather than expecting more, but it’s peen pretty hard to keep perspective. I just want to surf! Arg!